Simply the Best: Clos L’Église, 2018 – 2022
Among the estates of the Garcin-Lévêque family, Clos L’Église holds a singular place. Alongside Barde-Haut and Poesia in St Emilion (and let us not forget Château d’Arce in Castillon), it is arguably the linchpin of the family’s portfolio of properties; it was the first to be acquired by the family on the right bank, and the first property to come under the direction of Hélène Garcin-Lévêque (Haut-Bergey and Branon, earlier purchases, having gone to her brother).
One of four properties united by their distinctive terroirs, Clos L’Église nevertheless has an identity all its own. Nestled within the centre of Pomerol, a stone’s throw from some of the appellation’s most hallowed names, including next-door neighbour Château L’Église-Clinet, its vines occupy a privileged site of clay and gravel.
On these slopes Merlot finds generosity and depth, tempered by the structure and perfume of Cabernet Franc, the result being some of the world’s most renowned (and, it has to be said, most expensive) wines. It is a landscape of concentration, both in terms of the compact gathering of famous names, but also the amplitude and intensity of flavour in the glass. Clos L’Église is undoubtedly a member of the Pomerol upper echelons.
It is thus perhaps not surprising that, of the three leading Garcin-Lévêque properties so far discussed, it is Clos L’Église that I regularly find to be the most seductive and beguiling. This is a sensation which originates not just from regular tastings of the wines with Hélène Garcin-Lévêque during the primeurs or during other visits to taste (usually hosted at Château Barde-Haut the Garcin-Lévêques’ ‘home’ estate), but also at a very enjoyable vertical tasting held in London, with Hélène in attendance, back in 2018.
Perhaps this explains why, in this short series of mini-vertical tasting reports on the wines of Hélène and Patrice Garcin-Lévêque, I come to Clos L’Église at the end.
Clos L’Église is simply the best. And you always save the best till last.
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