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Château Gazin

The modern history of Gazin begins in the early 18th century with the proprietor Antoine Feuilhade, a lawyer and politician of considerable wealth who wielded some power locally, thanks to his taking up the positions of both Mayor of Libourne in 1735 and, later on, regional Admiralty Commissioner. But it is likely that the true history of the estate stretches back further than this, and writing in his tome Grands Vins (University of California Press, 1995) Clive Coates discusses the possible role of the Knights Templar or perhaps the Knights Hospitalier of St John in the evolution of Gazin. Although the location of Gazin was once a stop-off for pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostella, and there was once also a hospital on the site in ancient times, eight centuries ago, there is no real evidence for this fanciful tale. If we are to limit ourselves to the evidence, we must start with Feuilhade, who acquired the property, including a sizeable vineyard, as an old man in 1772.

Gazin: A History

The estate did not remain with his family for long, however, as the heir to the estate, Jean Feuilhade, died just two years after his father. It thus passed to the family of Antoine's brother, Arnaud, and having no passion for the labours of viticulture they subsequently sold the property to a ship builder named Capitan-Bayonne, who also acquired nearby Château Rouget. He and his family held tenure at Gazin during much of the 19th century, expanding the vineyard, and developing an excellent reputation for their wines which came to be regarded as some of the best in the region. From here the estate passed to Capitan-Bayonne's nephew, a man named Fabre, and it remained with the Fabre family until the latter quarter of the century when they relinquished their hold on these two estates, with Gazin being acquired by a gentleman called Cabanes, and then by Léon Quenedey, a négociant.

It was Quenedey who owned the estate at the turn of the century, and by now Gazin's dominance of the region was coming to an end, its reputation fading somewhat as the 20th century progressed. It is a common tale, the sequence of phylloxera, oidium, war and depression being a story told many times on these pages. In 1917 it passed from Quenedey to Louis Soualle, who also acquired La Dominique, before both properties came to his daughter who was wed to Edouard de Bailliencourt, a family with noble heritage having once been in the service of the French regent, six centuries beforehand. Since that time they have been known as the Bailliencourt dit Courcols, this addition to their name, meaning short neck, was an honour bestowed upon them by King Philippe Auguste (Philip II of France) in 1214.

Their tenure of these properties, however, turned out to be disastrous; when they sold La Dominique in 1969 it was in a state of ruin. After Edouard's death, only one of his four children wished to continue with Château Gazin, this being Etienne de Bailliencourt; he purchased the shares belonging to his siblings, an action financed by the sale of 5 hectares of vines to Jean-Pierre Moueix who of course owned neighbouring Petrus (the vines were absorbed into that estate). It must have been a difficult time for Etienne; he had on his hands a vineyard of questionable quality, particularly after the frosts of 1956 had laid waste to so many of the region's vines necessitating extensive replanting (thus he had many young vines), and he had only achieved this through the sale of a choice plot of his vineyard. This was not the beginning of Gazin's reversal of fortunes; the planting up of the less interesting alluvial plain below the château, increased yields and the arrival of machine harvesting, introduced by Bailliencourt in 1979, tell us this.

The awaited turn-around came not quite a decade later; the time came for Etienne to take a backseat and in 1988 his son, Nicolas de Bailliencourt, assumed responsibility for the running of the estate. All the changes that you might expect came into play - the machine was replaced by the hand, yields began to fall, the chai was rebuilt and equipped anew, and in 1986 a second wine Hospitalet de Gazin was introduced. The services of Pomerol guru Jean-Pierre Moueix were engaged, to consult on vinification and to provide marketing. The wines of Gazin, in the early years of the 21st century, reflect this renewed vigour. Today it is Nicolas & Christophe de Bailliencourt dit Courcol who run the estate together, with winemaker Mickaël Obert, a graduate of the École Supérieure d’Oenologie and the École Nationale Supérieure d’Agronomie de Montpellier, previously of Clos l'Église and Barde-Haut, who replaced the now retired Jean-Pierre Gasteuil in 2006. Consultation comes from Gilles Pauquet, whose curriculum vitae mentions both Cheval Blanc and Canon, among others.

Gazin: The Vines and the Wines

The Gazin estate covers 26.5 hectares, with the area planted to vines amounting to 24 hectares, of which 17 hectares are on the clay and gravel of the Pomerol plateau, the terroir renowned for being the source of the best wines of the appellation. The fruit of those vines that have a less favourable position is more likely to be the basis for Hospitalet de Gazin rather than the grand vin. The vines are in an exalted position, neighbouring vines belonging to Petrus and L'Évangile. On the plateau the terroir is clay, the other vines have their roots embedded in more gravelly or sandy soils. They are predominantly Merlot which accounts for 90%, then 3% Cabernet Franc and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, planted on rootstocks 420A, 101.14, 3309, 5BB, S04 and Riparia, with a density of 5500 vines per hectare. The average age of the vines is 35 years and there is an ongoing program of planting in order to maintain this vineyard profile. At the centre of the vineyards is the château (pictured above), a two-storey house most probably erected by Capitan-Boyanne or possibly the Fabre family during Gazin's golden era in the 19th century, and here too are the cellars and associated buildings. The vines are now harvested by hand of course, with eventual yields between 35 and 45 hl/ha (sometimes rather lower), the fruit then transferred to these cellars where it is fermented in small temperature-controlled cement and stainless steel vats, with a maceration between 20 and 30 days depending on the vintage. The young wine then goes into oak which is 50% new for up to 18 months, where it undergoes malolactic fermentation with a little pigeage, then a sequence of rackings before an eventual egg white fining prior to bottling. There may also be a light filtration if it is required. The blend is naturally (considering the make-up of the vineyard) dominated by Merlot, somewhere between 85-95% being typical, with more Cabernet included when it has done well. The total output can exceed 8000 cases of the grand vin, Château Gazin, with 2000 cases of the second wine, l'Hospitalet de Gazin.

It is clear that Gazin has, in the past, enjoyed great success. Today the wines perhaps reflect that. I once wrote that they are not quite the top tier of real Pomerol, perhaps not even the second tier, for they do not quite match the consistency that can be found at La Conseillante or Vieux Château Certan, for instance. Whereas I remain content with my first statement I think the latter now looks somewhat dated, as the wines here are today very reliable and frequently put on a very commendable show when lined up against some very renowned peers. Wines that stand out are particularly the most recent vintages, including the 2005, the oft under-rated 2004. Although I once thought the 2006 did not belong in the same bracket, continued reassessment has shown that in this vintage Gazin has in fact put in a very strong performance, and the same can be said of 2008 and 2009. The 2007 is naturally, considering the vintage, a less convincing wine, and the 2002 was also less full and pleasing than other recent years, although it would be very appropriate to reassess - this is a vintage that can provide unexpected and pleasant surprises. Looking further back there are other successes though, such as the surprisingly delicious 1999, and the Cabernet-spiced 1995. Looking back, to before the tenure of Nicolas and Christophe, I have sampled the 1982 vintage twice; once it was merely satisfactory, once it was delightful. I would be unable to give any firm judgement without assessing this vintage again. That, unfortunately, is unlikely to happen.

Not to worry, it is the wines released from the property today, not twenty or thirty years ago, that should concern those of us looking to stock our cellars. And with this in mind Gazin is today a must-know estate for fans of Pomerol, turning out exceptionally good wines, but without the grand or downright exorbitant prices that some leading right bank properties command. (12/2/08, updated 31/12/10)

Contact details:
Address: 33500 Pomerol
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 51 07 05
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 51 69 96
Internet: www.gazin.com
GPS: 44.93136, -0.185987

Château Gazin - Tasting Notes

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Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2010: The alcohol here is 14%. A dark and glossy purple hue in the glass. The nose is not so expressive as some, the fruit here quite dense and brawny. Despite this it has rather an attractive and cool start to the palate, although a more open, softer fruit compote does become apparent though the middle. Lots of tannins and extract here again, a very broad and chewy style, and there is acidity too, but those tannins are pretty massive, giving this wine a remarkable structure. Thankfully these tannins are ripe, velvety, clinging but not harsh or challenging. And they rally in the finish, a sign that this wine will need a long, long time in the cellar. Very good. From my Bordeaux 2010 primeurs assessment. 17-18/20 (April 2011)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2009: Merlot 90%, Cabernet Sauvignon 7%, Cabernet Franc 3%. Alcohol here 14.3%. The nose here has the suggestion of substance, with some evocative dark fruit. Quite fresh, pure fruit, quite creamy, with a good backbone of measured tannin beneath. The acidity is nice, the overall composition is well balanced, and the substance hides that alcohol well. A very ripe character. Massive in style, but everything sits quite well together, and overall I think this is really good. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17-18+/20 (March 2010)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2008: This starts with a lovely, intense quality of fruit, savoury and tense. A good supple style of fruit on the nose, followed by plenty of grip on the palate, with piles of structure too, although it rolls out very nicely from beneath the fruit. Good structural elements on the finish. This is savoury, well-balanced and set for the long haul, and it should give plenty of pleasure along the way. Top quality here and more impressive than I found the primeur barrel sample. From a tasting of 2008 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17.5+/20 (October 2010)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2008: Dense and creamy fruit here, pure but rich, and perhaps just a little meaty. A lighter style as it starts out on the palate, fresh, broad and open. Less sweet texture, firm, rather hard structure compared to some of its peers. Extracted and indeed a little tinny, with lots of acid. This will need to fatten out to really satisfy, which it may do. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2009)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2007: Dark and slightly smoky fruits here, with lightly gamey notes coming in behind, but these are subtle elements and what I find most striking is the delicate and reassuring polish that the fruit possesses. There is certainly something that provides interest here. The palate has a good substance with a dry rather than sweetly polished character, but there is an attractive weight to it. The tannins seem quite firm, moving into austere, and are perhaps a little much for the vintage, but the other fruit elements stand up pretty well to it. There is no problem with acidity. An attractive if slightly top-heavy wine which possesses only a short finish. From a 2007 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 16/20 (November 2011)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2007: A glossy, deep cherry red hue, with a sweetness and smokiness to the fruit. Bright in character, a little denseness to the fruit, overall an attractive nose. A very firm palate, an austerity at the core, polished fruit and some substance. A spiced tannin finish. Some length too. This is a more serious effort than some. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16+/20 (October 2009)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2007: This is a very dark wine, with a nose rich in the aromas of nutty oak, and some brooding, somewhat exotic fruit. A lovely vigour on entry, and a well defined and precise palate. this is fresh and elegant, and balanced, although there is a firm grip underneath. Overall, though, a good wine which I hope translates through into the finished product. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 16-17+/20 (April 2008)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2006: A darker wine, and quite reserved in style, less giving in terms of aroma, but there are subtle nuances of violet-tinged fruits. And on the palate, very much firmer, a similar style to Clinet but with more substance in the middle of it. Certainly very different in style from the St Emilions just tasted. It warms up and opens out in the middle, showing a robust spice and fruit, with a forceful grip to it all. Very savoury though and seductive in terms of balance if not flesh. This is moreish, and will be delicious given time. From a 2006 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 17.5+/20 (November 2010)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2006: When I tasted this wine in April 2007 it did not appeal; today it seems totally different. It has more subtle fruit on the nose than some of the other Pomerols, with more nutty oak evident. The palate is gentle at first, but then reveals a more structured character, showing lots of big tannins. Nevertheless it is well judged, more grippy than some other wines, with appealing bright flavour. Much better than I expected. From a tasting of 2006 St Emilion & Pomerol. 17+/20 (October 2008)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2006: Rather subdued on the nose, with some clean berry fruit all that is showing. Rather delicate, nicely composed, a lighter style. Decent acidity, and a gentle tannic structure. Rather pretty, but not very substantial. I have had better. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 14-15/20 (April 2007)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2005: Beautiful Pomerol character on the nose, darkly spiced fruit, spicy oak too, dark but sweet and open and welcoming rather than brooding. The palate is creamy at the start, then through the middle more restrained, but it always has a very well-judged substance which covers the ripe but rather forceful core of tannins. Very punchy acidity too. This is really excellent and has plenty of classic style imbued with the richness of the vintage. From a 2005 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 18+/20 (November 2009)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2005: This has some delightfully lifted aromatics on the nose, with a dense, meaty, plummy character beneath. It is elegant, with notes of white flower petals, and on the palate there is a similar style, although in combination with much structure. Lots of appeal, but very firm, upright, and unsurprisingly a big, tannic finish. But there is plenty of fruit here to cope with this. Great potential here. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 18-18.5+/20 (October 2007)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2005: A densely coloured wine, with a raspberry-blue periphery. Restrained fruit on the nose, but there is no lack of style here. Notes of pepper. The palate has a lovely, soft and supple entry, leading to a well balanced midpalate. Gently creamy, but firmly structured without over-extraction, with a pile of tannin through the midpalate and finish. This has very good potential. From my 2005 Bordeaux en primeur tasting. 17-18/20 (April 2006)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2004: This wine shows some reserved fruit character on the nose, with notes of toffee, cream and vanilla rather more noticeable at present. There is fatly textured fruit on the palate which is ripe, soft and round, with an appealing touch of grit to the raspberry, toffee-tinged fruit. Today it seems rather diffuse and unfocused, nevertheless all the components are here, with an appropriate balance, and with time this could be very fine indeed. From a 2004 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 17.5+/20 (November 2008)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2004: A dark, minerally, mint-edged black fruit nose with nuances of liquorice. Lovely, complex, balanced style on the palate again here. A really velvety feel to the tannins, beautifully composed with appropriate fruit and texture, with fine, fresh acidity. Delightful quality through to the finish. Excellent. From my Bordeaux 2004 assessment. 18/20 (October 2006)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2002: This is more restrained than the 1999. It has some dark fruits, is slightly nutty, elegant and balanced. A fine presence on the palate, with some good grip beneath. An absolutely lovely style considering the vintage. Great grip, good substance, fresh, perhaps not the midpalate concentration that I would like but still a good wine. 16+/20 (February 2007)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2001: A wonderfully dense colour here, with a pure and intense fruit aroma. Lovely brambly fruits, perfumed and vibrant, with a fine, dried character. Plums and spiced fruit cake follow these early impressions. A very admirable although slightly austere texture and composition, this is a stylish rather than immediately seductive wine. Fine ripe tannins, and a good dry finish. Impressive. From a tasting of 2001 Pomerol. 18+/20 (February 2008)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 2000: Still obviously very youthful on the nose, although really rather closed down. Rounded, with a soft texture, peppery acidity, and firm tannins at the core. But other than this, little impact here. This is really difficult to judge in this state, but based on the structure alone I have given a likely score. From a Bordeaux tasting with Bibendum. 16.5-17.5?/20 (April 2007)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 1999: A very alluring nose here, with lovely, deep, well defined fruit. Smoky, blackberry character, flashy and seductive. Full, creamy, stylish and rounded. Soft structure though, with the tannins only really showing through the midpalate. Fresh, crisp acidity beneath. This is very stylish, elegant yet with substance. Very good. 17/20 (February 2007)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 1995: Dark, meaty, concentrated hue here. This is a really fantastically expressive nose here, brilliant tobacco leaf elements with lots of minty Cabernet Franc aromas, also a bright and cool potter's clay character, dense and dark fruit, and notes of coffee grounds. Broad and with a dense but rounded, well-polished structure on the palate, the fat of the wine covering the very firm tannins and bright acidity very nicely. This is really robustly dense in its character, fleshy and full of potential. In the finish there are some gritty tannins and a great length. A really lovely character here which needs years and years in the cellar. From a Pomerol Tasting with Roberson Wine. 17.5/20 (November 2010)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 1993: A real baby of a wine here, with a coffee and toffee tinged nose, packed with fruit. Sweet, tannic, fat, luscious wine on the palate, with good acidity. Plenty of potential here. From a Pomerol tasting. 17+/20 (May 2002)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 1989: More youthful on the nose, with a coffee edge to the rich, black cherry fruit. Big, firm, and structured on the palate, with tannins that are ripe and pleasing, but need more time to integrate. Plenty of lack fruit, spice, strong acidity, and lots of potential. From a Pomerol tasting. 17.5+/20 (May 2002)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 1982: Wonderful deep pile of fruit and sweet toasty oak. This is intriguing, powerful, and seems so young. Lovely firm fruit on the palate, with smoke and a real sense of power, combined with a full, rich texture. Fine acidity. Last time I tasted this I thought it was drying out, which illustrates how markedly bottle variation can affect your opinion of a wine. From a Pomerol tasting. 18/20 (May 2002)

Château Gazin (Pomerol) 1982: A deep red wine with a caramel, tawny rim. A stony, mineral nose is followed by a dry, somewhat fruitless palate. Sharp tannins, correct acidity, what fruit is present has a spicy edge to it. Finishes well. This wine is drying out - drink up. From a Pomerol tasting. 15.5/20 (June 2000)