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Chateau Nenin

It is remarkable to observe the self-imposed segregation between the left and right bank appellations of Bordeaux; I would not go so far to say they are worlds apart, but despite their geographical proximity and the superficial similarities in the style of the wines produced, these two sides of the Bordeaux coin are certainly distinct. An examination of the history of many of the top left bank estates brings forth the same names; Ségur for example, the father-and-son team of Alexandre and Nicolas-Alexandre who between them owned what seems like most of the Médoc during the 17th and 18th centuries. Alternatively, in more recent years Rothschild, Sichel or Cazes. Famous names, none of which will be found in any history of St Emilion or Pomerol; here it is more likely to be Moueix or Thienpont that provokes some interest, names unfamiliar to the historian of the left bank. Suffice to say that Bordeaux does not have a track-record of cross-fertilisation of ideas, expertise or investment between the two banks. Nenin is, however, an exception to that rule.

History

Nenin is unusual in Pomerol in that it is one of a mere handful of large estates; it accounts for more than 30 hectares of the appellation, when the norm is a small fraction of that. The history of these 30-or-so hectares is, in the beginning at least, somewhat sketchy. The origin of the name of the estate is uncertain, although I personally imagine it reflects the name of a long-forgotten owner, perhaps even the man that established the vineyard, and there is no real detail on subsequent proprietors, even as recently as two centuries ago. It is not until the mid-19th century that the mists of time begin to clear. At this juncture the property was in the hands of the Paillet family although this was not the case for long; a daughter took the property with her as a dowry when she married into the Despujols family, and for many decades it is this latter name that has been most associated with Nenin. Proprietors during the advance of phylloxera, oidium, the wars of the 20th century and the economic doldrums that came with them, the family remained in charge of the estate through to the 1990s.

By this time what had once been an estate carrying a great reputation, judging by the prevailing opinions of the wines of the latter years of the 19th century, was in severe decline. The property had been bequeathed by Emmanuel Despujols to his son François in 1975, and it was under his tenure that the problems came to light; the reputation was tarnished and the wine was no longer held in such high regard. Without doubt the Napoleonic laws of inheritance were at least partly to blame for this as by the time the century was drawing to a close there were 17 family members each holding a stake in Nenin. The only solution on which they could agree, as so often seems to be the case, was to sell the property. In 1997 the chateau and vineyards were acquired by the Delon family, a dynasty best associated with Léoville-Las-Cases, the St Julien super-second. The left-bank proprietors gained possession of a right-bank property, and the Delons joined the ranks of proprietors who own properties on both sides of the Gironde; this is, at the highest level at least, a very exclusive club. Today Nenin rests in the hands of Jean-Hubert Delon and his sister Genevieve d'Alton.

Vineyards & Chateau

What the Delon family acquired was an attractive 19th-century chateau built of creamy-yellow stone with a mansard roof, and a good-sized vineyard. The former is another feature that marks out this estate as unusual, for the appellation of Pomerol is one more associated with low-slung and understated buildings rather than grand edifices such as this one. The vineyard, which suffered devastation in the great frost of 1956, was augmented in 1999 with the addition of a 4-hectare parcel acquired during the sale of Chateau Certan-Giraud. The rest of that domaine was taken by Etablissements JP Moueix and was divided, one part rechristened Chateau Hosanna, the other Certan-Marzelle. This brought the vineyards up to their current size of just over 32 hectares. There was investment in the rest of the estate too, with the establishment of new fermentation and barrel rooms, a malolactic room and bottling line. The Delons clearly meant business.

The vines are 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, the latter having developed a somewhat stronger presence in the vineyard since the Delon acquisition. Many of the vines needed replanting as the vineyards were in a sorry state. The soil underfoot varies across the estate, not surprising with 30 hectares; there are areas where gravel dominates, associated with clay, this accounting for perhaps one-third of the area. These soils are favoured by Cabernet Franc, whereas Merlot is perhaps better suited to the other soil types which have a more sandy profile, sometimes strengthened by clay. The new vines came from a variety of sources as vineyard manager Jérome Depoizier, who gained much of his experience at Chateau de Targé in the Loire before joining the team at Nenin in 2000, favoured some genetic variation rather than the overall dominance of one or two clones in the vineyard. The density of planting is 7000 vines/ha and the average vine age around 30 years, with the most elderly vines now well into their sixties.

There is limited inter-planting with grass on the estate, usually just where deemed necessary in order to challenge vigorous young vines, but there is a healthy policy of lutte raisonnée. This means limited and reasoned applications of chemical products, whether they be insecticides or pesticides, although the latter are also controlled with sexual confusion - the seeding of the vineyard with insect pheromones in order to disrupt the mating activities of whichever vineyard pest is most troublesome. Despite this approach (not at all unusual in Bordeaux - the little brown pheromone capsules can be seen in hundreds of other vineyards) there are no plans for any organic or biodynamic developments.

In the Cellars

The harvest is by hand, as you would expect, with the yields limited to around 30-35 hl/ha in most vintages (although as high as 59 hl/ha in 2004) by early pruning and then green-harvesting. The fruit goes into small baskets to avoid damage and these are then immediately transported to the reception and fermentation areas. The fruit is sorted and destemmed before passing onto a second table for another sorting. Then follows the fermentation in small thermo-regulated stainless steel vats varying in size between 70 and 160 hectolitres. The must is chilled but allowed up to 26-28ºC for the fermentation which is kick-started by the addition of cultured yeasts, and the cap is kept fresh by gentle pumping over twice-daily. The press wine as you would expect is handled separately, but may be blended back in as taste dictates. Malolactic fermentation is in vat, in a dedicated room as mentioned above, before tasting, blending and transfer into oak during the winter months after harvest. The proportion of new wood used is not high, up to 30% new for the grand vin, Chateau Nenin (somewhat lower at 22% in 2008), and a lower figure (20% in 2008) would be more typical for the deuxième vin, Fugue de Nenin, a wine which was introduced by the Delons shortly after their arrival. The wines are fined and given a light filtration before bottling, the whole process being overseen by chef de cave Philippe Deleigne who has been at the estate since the Despujols days of 1990, with general manager Jacques Depoizier also on hand. In the early days the Delons were also quick to employ the services of Michel Rolland, and he continues to consult here today.

Tasting the Wines

The appellation of Pomerol has a reputation for voluptuous wines, libations of a sensuous texture which can flatter and seduce. At the very pinnacle of the appellation, the wines can surely make even the most world-weary heart race. Having tasted a handful of examples from recent vintages encourages me to suggest that Nenin might not quite be playing in that league. The wines can have attractive fruit, and a polished perhaps even creamy texture, but they do not display the svelte sensuality of a great Pomerol. Indeed, where the 2008 vintage is concerned, there is even a slightly coarse, sooty profile to the tannins and an austere rather than welcoming character; I wondered if this might have related to the press wine, which made up 14.5% of the blend. Having said that the wines are certainly good, with some enticing aromatics. And although perhaps not so warmly inviting when young, such an overt tannic backbone can confer significant longevity to the wine. Nenin thus appears to have the structure to age well. As for Fugue de Nenin these wines are considerably less exciting than the grand vin and I would strongly advocate buying only if pleasure has first been confirmed by tasting. (9/9/09)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Nenin, 33500 Pomerol
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 73 25 26
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 59 18 33
Internet: www.chateau-nenin.com

Chateau Nenin - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Nenin (Pomerol) 2009: Merlot 80%, Cabernet Franc 20%, and including 11% press wine. IPT 73, alcohol 13.9%. Dark but well defined plum fruit. Good flesh and substance on the palate, polished character, ripe tannins, damson and raspberry fruit. Good freshness, nice acids in the middle, supple fruit too. Appealing and grippy with its velvet coat of ripe tannins. Very good. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5/20 (March 2010)

Fugue de Nenin (Pomerol) 2009: The second wine of Nenin, Merlot 81%, Cabernet Franc 19%, 16% press wine, IPT 70, alcohol 13.9%. Confit fruit, black cherry and damson jam, bright with raspberry notes. Very forward, open and aromatic. Light but nicely presented fruit, a jammy feel but also paradoxically spicy and savoury, with not a hint of jamminess in the texture. Rather it is fresh, creamy but fairly lively. Fascinating fruit complexity, all raspberry and cream. Just a touch of alcohol peeking in. Firm, structure finish. Nice acidity. This certainly has interest and appeal. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (March 2010)

Chateau Nenin (Pomerol) 2008: This wine, 81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc, has a more exotic aroma profile then Fugue, with notes suggestive of scented plums rubbed on stones. The palate is at first weighty and dense, but then much more restrained and better judged through the middle. Still quite firm though, and a charcoaly edge here too, a touch chewy and hard on the finish. But it has good acids. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (April 2009)

Fugue de Nenin (Pomerol) 2008: The second wine of Nenin, 84% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc. Perfumed raspberry and chalk here, with a nice creamy start. Quite firm, slightly austere through the middle, although there is a lot of substance to it. Underneath there are charcoaly-sooty tannins, and this character persists onto the finish. A very firm, extracted style, but a decent second wine I suppose. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 13.5-14.5+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Nenin (Pomerol) 2007: An attractive, moderately dense nose of sweet blackberry fruit. there is some depth here. It has a sweet and creamy character on entry, and an appealing midpalate structure, with a lot of grip at the finish. There are enticing scents of tar, roses and fruit. An attractive sample with potential. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2008)

Fugue de Nenin (Pomerol) 2007: The second wine of Nenin. Firm and sweet blackberry fruit on the nose here. A nice entry, showing some substance, with a pleasant midpalate weight. Evident structure here, and rather buttery oak showing through. It shows its bones towards the finish, and has a rustic grip. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 13-14/20 (April 2008)