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Chateau La Conseillante

Like many estates of Bordeaux the exact history of this estate, the precise pathway of transition from one generation to the next as the years have progressed is not wholly complete. Nevertheless, at least with La Conseillante we have a good idea as to the beginning, which features none other than Catherine Conseillan, a metal dealer based in Libourne. Midway through the 18th century Conseillan, for reasons unbeknown to us today, seems to have established a vineyard close to the border between the communes of Pomerol and St Emilion. Although initially a share-cropping project, a system in which tenants worked the land in return for a proportion of the harvest, it evolved into the Conseillante estate that we know today. By 1756 there was certainly active viticulture here, and the wine produced was already christened La Conseillante. It was at about this point that Conseillan took full control of the estate, thus securing its future as one of Pomerol's most important viticultural properties. The chateau which now graces the vineyard (as shown below) dates from this era, and it is assumed, rightly so I expect, that it was Catherine Conseillan that was responsible for its construction.

After Conseillan

Although the founder is known to us, the subsequent succession is not. By the end of the century the name of Conseillan is no longer associated with the estate, and by the 1840s it is in the hands of the Leperche-Princeteau family, who also owned property in Fronsac. Their tenure was not the lengthiest, however, as by 1871 the vineyard was in the possession of Louis Nicolas, and it is from this point that we may trace a direct line through to the owners of today. Under Nicolas, the vineyard's reputation was consolidated, the wine selling for a high price, allegedly matching some illustrious properties from the left bank. This enviable position was maintained despite the death of Louis Nicolas in 1880 and the arrival of phylloxera, which saw the next generation take up the battle against the vine louse in the vineyard. This generation was also named Louis Nicolas, and he was responsible for the creation of the Syndicat Viticole de Pomerol in 1900, and he held the office of president of the organisation for several years. Indeed, there then followed another two generations both also called Louis Nicolas, before the estate came into the ownership of Bernard Nicolas, who ran the business alongside his brother, Francis. He was responsible for an extensive refurbishment of the chai, having engaged the oenological services of Professor Emile Peynaud, who recommended disposing of the ancient wooden vats and replacing them with stainless steel. Today, however, we are one generation further on, in the shape of Bertrand Nicolas who has joined Marie-France Nicolas d'Arfeuille in the running of the estate, assisted by manager Jean-Michel Laporte. Under their direction, I think La Conseillante remains one of the leading estates in Pomerol.

La Conseillante: Vineyards and Wines

The Conseillante vineyard lies on the very boundary between Pomerol and St Emilion, and one of its nearest neighbours is the St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé estate Cheval-Blanc, just across the road to the east. Indeed, although the nearest vineyards include Vieux Chateau Certan, Petrus and L'Evangile, all Pomerol thoroughbreds, a number of the Conseillante vines actually lie within the St Emilion commune. Underfoot, the soils are a mix of the types associated with the two communes; some clay, some sand, some gravel too. There are 12 hectares of vines all told, 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, planted in a single block, the characteristics of which have not changed since the acquisition of the estate by the Nicolas family. The vines, planted at a standard density of 6000 vines/ha, see controlled yields, as evinced by a figure of 38 hl/ha for the 2005 vintage, achieved through a rolling process of pruning and bud-thinning, with leaf-thinning to improve quality of ripening. The harvest is manual, with the fruit sorted by an arrangement of four sorting tables, and destemmed prior to a cold maceration and fermentation which is carried out according to plot of origin. The malolactic tends to begin in vat, prior to running off and then gentle pressing, before being finished off in barrels, between 80% and 100% new each vintage, where the wine will rest for up to eighteen months, with a racking every third month. There is an egg white fining prior to bottling, but filtration is avoided. Selection and blending occurs when the wine is still in barrel, with the best lots destined for the grand vin, Chateau La Conseillante, with lesser aliquots going into a second wine, newly created with the 2007 vintage, named Duo de Conseillante, which will see only 12 months ageing in wood, using older barrels. Total production at the estate amounts to about 5000 cases, with the second wine accounting for up to 20% of this figure.

The grand vin itself, when tasted, has done little other than impress this particular palate. One of my earliest experiences was with the 1982 vintage, which is naturally rarely a bad place to start. It was a delicious wine, and yet a number of more recent vintages match it for style and impact. My earliest tasting of the 2005 vintage, which was at two years of age, showed it had all the substance and balance required to make it a truly great wine, although curiously a couple of years later it showed less well, although I have come to realise that at an assessment of four years of age always throws up a few wines where the structure seems to have been lost, only for the wine to come good with time. The 2003 is also delicious, and other vintages such as the 2004 are not to be sneezed at, along with 2006 and even the Conseillante of 2007 has shown well. As always, the ability to turn out such an admirable wine in such a weak and wet vintage is the hallmark of a great estate. If there are any recent vintages that really show La Conseillante's hat being thrown into the ring, however, it was the 2008; it was a superb performance for the vintage, and one of the best wines from the commune I think. The main barrier to adding this wine to the cellar, however, is price; as we are approaching the top tier of the Pomerol appellation it is only to be expected, I suppose, that it should be high. But for those who have bitten the bullet, and who have had the wisdom and financial wherewithal to squirrel away recent vintages of this particular right banker, I should imagine there will be little disappointment in the future. (15/1/08, updated 17/3/10)

Contact details:
Address: 33500 Pomerol
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 51 15 32
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 51 42 39
Internet: www.laconseillante.fr

Chateau La Conseillante - Tasting Notes

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Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2009: Tasted twice. This is 81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc. Alcohol 14.2%. Lovely fruit quality on the nose, pure damson character, very sweet and evocative, seems a touch jammy at first although a second taste later in the day did not suggest this so much. Certainly a very plush style though. The palate confirms this, sweet fruits, damson and plums, violets, fresh and bright with a good layer of grippy tannin underneath. Quite a polished style, balanced, the tannins deliciously ripe and velvety. Just a hint of warmth belying that firm alcoholic seam. But otherwise extremely good, with delicious and complex potential. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17.5-18.5+/20 (March 2010)

Duo de Conseillante (Pomerol) 2009: The second wine of Conseillante, this is 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Just 300 cases, amounting to 6% of total production. Slightly gamey fruit on the nose. Soft texture on the palate, with a well-rounded feel, but the texture seems a touch diffuse. Slightly detached substance and structure. Really appealing and slightly savoury finish though. Soft, and there is such a polish to the tannins that it is quite easy to taste now, although it will really benefit from a few years in the cellar. Very gentle and appealing. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (March 2010)

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2008: Hugely aromatic sweet fruit on the nose here, sweet and elegant, with evident purity and enticing red fruit character. The palate is lovely, creamy but with style and finesse. A fine density, ripe and silky tannins, but that purity is maintained. Great potential here, one of the best wines of the commune for sure. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 18-19+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2007: One of the first wines to be tasted at the 2007 UGC event, this has a bright and fresh hue, with notes of toasty barrel on the nose, alongside liquorice and crunchy dark fruits. Quite supple on the palate, attractive, with a gentle feel. Lots of oak apparent at the moment, but there is balance otherwise, with some more grip towards the end. Not overdone. Good. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16.5+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2007: This wine has a really punchy nose, bursting with the aromas of deep and plush fruit, framed by appealingly spicy oak. Rich, creamy and textured on the palate, but not flashy; although a very seductive style, there is also an elegant style here. This is quite impressive to my palate. A potentially delicious wine. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2006: In this vintage La Conseillante has a just beautiful nose, with vibrant red plum fruit, a savoury character, and well judged, integrated oak. The palate is lovely, supple, composed and elegant, with very stylish ripe tannins, covered by raspberry, plum and vanilla flavours. Delicious, with a fine, savoury grip at the finish. This is a very complete and enticing wine, and was certainly top wine of the day. From a tasting of 2006 St Emilion & Pomerol. 18.5+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2006: A deep, plush, concentrated style, with lots of fruit which has a rather complex, exotic edge to it, a little savage or feral. The same on the palate, although there is a sweetness too, with firm tannins beneath. Very firm in fact, solid confiture fruit, attractively composed, fresh acidity. Complex and interesting. Lovely grip and acidity. Very good indeed, with excellent potential. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 17.5-18.5/20 (April 2007)

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2005: Rather a perfumed and even slightly confected character on the nose here, with a tinge of cola alongside the restrained dark fruit aromatics. Not domineering though, and there is an attractive smoky substance to it as well. The palate also shows a little strangely today, a little unfocused and loose knit, although there is plenty of substance here. A little fat, certainly creamy, with some central grip. I know I have rated this highly in the past, and so this seems very strange. Nevertheless, I can only mark this wine as I see it today, although I must stress that it can not be a conclusive judgement based on this rather unusual showing. From a 2005 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 16-17+?/20 (November 2009)

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2005: This has obvious finesse on the nose, with a pure, plummy fruit presented in a crisp, very well defined fashion. The palate shows all the necessary components, worked in together in a very harmonious style. There is a firm core of tannins, wrapped in a layer of bitter-edged redcurrant and plum fruit. A great composition, with fresh well-balanced acidity and overall superb style. Really super potential here. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 18-18.5+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2004: This has lovely fruit on the nose, just a gentle application of oak, sweet and dense, not overdone, with some very typical Pomerol spice. Fresh, stylish, rich but balanced on the palate, with a good freshness to it. Dense tannins, lots of character, with good acidity underneath it all. Very primary still, but with really fine potential. Excellent wine. From a 2004 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 18/20 (November 2008)

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2004: Wow! This has a huge depth of sweet, black fruits that is really impressive. Ripe, velutinous style, structured, nicely extracted, very balanced, complete and gloriously rounded style. It is very primary in character at present, with just a little complex meaty-beefy note to the finish, but there is great potential here. Excellent. From my Bordeaux 2004 assessment. 18/20 (October 2006)

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2003: Black fruits and nuts, with some dried-spiced fruit on the nose. Full, weighty and rich on the palate, but not lush, opulent or overdone. There is plenty of firm structure beneath it all, but it sits well with the rest of the wine. Good acidity. Lovely style and great potential here. A real success! From my Bordeaux 2003 assessment. 17.5+/20 (October 2005)

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2001: Another very dark wine, with slightly earthy, organic fruit, overlaid with beautifully pure brambly tones. Slightly buttery notes too, from the oak which has not yet quite integrated. Seductive, textured and elegant, yet broad and complete in its composition. Softly balanced acids with a nice tannic structure. Gentle and poised, and overall very admirable. From a tasting of 2001 Pomerol. 17.5+/20 (February 2008)

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 1999: A meaty nose on this wine, tasted alongside the 2006 vintage. There is a deep and slightly unusual character, perhaps a touch of funk, certainly it seems quite feral. On the palate it is firm, full and rounded, and shows a meaty character like that found on the nose. Fleshy in texture, with decent acidity alongside. Not a great vintage for La Conseillante, nor for the region as a whole, but a good drinking vintage likely to be approachable very soon. 16+/20 (April 2007)

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 1982: Wow! This has a lovely nose, Packed with sweet, pastille-like blackcurrant and cherry fruit, with some soft, slightly buttery oak. The palate is fine, and displays a good balance. Delightful sweet fruit, fully integrated, spicy tannins which provide the backbone, and correct acidity. A good weight and a sweet, rounded edge to the texture. Delicious. From a Pomerol tasting. 18.5/20 (May 2002)