Home > Producer Profiles > Bordeaux Profiles > Château La Conseillante

Château La Conseillante

Like many of the right bank properties in of Bordeaux the exact history of this estate, the precise pathway of transition from one generation to the next as the years have progressed is not wholly complete. Nevertheless, at least with La Conseillante we have a good idea as to the beginning, which features none other than Catherine Conseillan, a metal dealer based in Libourne. Midway through the 18th century Conseillan, for reasons unbeknown to us today, seems to have established a vineyard close to the border between the communes of Pomerol and St Emilion. Although initially a share-cropping project, a system in which tenants worked the land in return for a proportion of the harvest, it evolved into the Conseillante estate that we know today. By 1756 there was certainly active viticulture here, and the wine produced was already christened La Conseillante. It was at about this point that Conseillan took full control of the estate, thus securing its future as one of Pomerol's most important viticultural properties. The château which now graces the vineyard (as shown below) dates from this era, and it is assumed, rightly so I expect, that it was Catherine Conseillan that was responsible for its construction.

After Conseillan

Although the founder is known to us, the subsequent succession is not. By the end of the century the name of Conseillan is no longer associated with the estate, and by the 1840s it is in the hands of the Leperche-Princeteau family, who also owned property in Fronsac. Their tenure was not the lengthiest, however, as by 1871 the vineyard had come into the possession of Louis Nicolas, and it is from this point that we may trace a direct line through to the owners of today. Under Nicolas the vineyard's reputation was consolidated and the wine began to sell for a higher price, allegedly matching some illustrious properties from the left bank. This enviable position was maintained despite the arrival of phylloxera in 1880, a year which also saw the death of proprietor Louis Nicolas. It was thus the next generation, also named Louis Nicolas, that took up the battle against the vine louse in the vineyard. The newer Louis Nicolas was also responsible for the creation of the Syndicat Viticole de Pomerol in 1900, and he held the office of president of this organisation for several years. Indeed, there then followed another two generations both also called Louis Nicolas, before the estate came into the ownership of Bernard Nicolas, who ran the business alongside his brother, Francis. He was responsible for an extensive refurbishment of the chai, having engaged the oenological services of Professor Emile Peynaud, who recommended disposing of the ancient wooden vats and replacing them with stainless steel. Today, however, we are one generation further on, in the shape of Bertrand Nicolas who has joined Marie-France Nicolas d'Arfeuille in the running of the estate, assisted by manager Jean-Michel Laporte, who must certainly be credited with a large part of the improvements in the wine at la Conseillante in recent years. Under their joint direction, I think La Conseillante is today one of the leading estates in Pomerol.

La Conseillante: The Vineyards and Wines

The Conseillante vineyard lies on the very boundary between Pomerol and St Emilion, and one of its nearest neighbours is the St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé estate Cheval-Blanc, just across the road to the east. Indeed, although the nearest vineyards include Vieux Château Certan, Petrus and L'Evangile, all Pomerol thoroughbreds, a number of the Conseillante vines actually lie within the St Emilion commune, but are considered part of the appellation of Pomerol. Underfoot, the soils are a mix of the types associated with the two communes; in the eastern section there is clay, whereas to the west there is more sandy gravel, the classic crasse de fer of Pomerol to be found if you dig a little deeper. There are 12 hectares of vines all told, 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, planted in a single block, the characteristics of which have not changed since the acquisition of the estate by the Nicolas family. The vines, planted at a standard density of 6000 vines per hectare (7500 for newer plots), have an average age of 32 years maintained by a program of grubbing up and replanting. The vines see controlled yields, as evinced by a figure of 38 hl/ha for the 2005 vintage (38-40 hl/ha is typical), achieved through a rolling process of pruning and bud-thinning, with leaf-thinning to improve quality of ripening. The harvest is manual, with the fruit sorted by an arrangement of four sorting tables, and machine-destemmed prior to a cold maceration and fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the harvest divided between the vessels according to the plot of origin.

Jean-Michel Laporte avoids over-working the ferment which is induced with added yeast, so although he kicks off with some remontage this process is called to a halt mid-fermentation, and there is no pigeage or micro-oxygenation. The malolactic fermentation, which may also be induced with the addition of bacteria, begins in vat prior to running off and then gentle pressing, before the wine is finished off in barrels, between 80% and 100% new each vintage, where it will rest for up to eighteen months, with a racking every third month. There is an egg white fining prior to bottling, but filtration is avoided. Selection and blending occurs when the wine is still in barrel, with the best lots destined for the grand vin, Château La Conseillante, typically a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. Lesser aliquots go into a second wine, newly created with the 2007 vintage, named Duo de Conseillante, which typically comes from a patch of vines on more sandy soils near Cheval-Blanc. This wine will see only 12 months ageing in wood, using older barrels. Total production at the estate amounts to about 4500 cases, with the second wine accounting for a small proportion of this figure.

The grand vin itself, when tasted, has done little other than impress this particular palate. One of my earliest experiences was with the 1982 vintage, which is naturally rarely a bad place to start. It was a delicious wine, and yet a number of more recent vintages match it for style and impact. My earliest tasting of the 2005 vintage, which was at two years of age, showed it had all the substance and balance required to make it a truly great wine, although curiously a couple of years later it showed less well, although I have come to realise that at an assessment of four years of age always throws up a few wines where the structure seems to have been lost, only for the wine to come good with time. The 2003 is also delicious, and other vintages such as the 2004 are not to be sneezed at, along with 2006 and even the Conseillante of 2007 has shown well. As always, the ability to turn out such an admirable wine in such a weak and wet vintage is the hallmark of a great estate. If there are any recent vintages that really show La Conseillante's hat being thrown into the ring, however, it was the 2008; it was a superb performance for the vintage, and one of the best wines from the commune I think. The main barrier to adding this wine to the cellar, however, is price; as we are approaching the top tier of the Pomerol appellation it is only to be expected, I suppose, that it should be high. But for those who have bitten the bullet, and who have had the wisdom and financial wherewithal to squirrel away recent vintages of this particular right banker, I should imagine there will be little disappointment in the future. (15/1/08, updated 17/3/10, 9/2/11)

Contact details:
Address: 33500 Pomerol
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 51 15 32
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 51 42 39
Internet: www.laconseillante.fr
GPS: 44.925892, -0.195447

Château La Conseillante - Tasting Notes

Click to locate stockists.

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2010: Surely now one of the most reliable addresses in the Pomerol appellation for those seeking quality. The yield here was 39 hl/ha. A good intense hue here, although it is not overly dense in terms of pigment. It is a glossy, vibrant, cherry red. Aromatically it shows some very fine, creamed-plum fruit, with great finesse. The palate also has a lovely creamy feel to it, but one that is polished and seductive rather than fat. A beautifully styled wine, with a spicy character to it. A gently balanced grip, overall giving it an alluring yet elegant and reposed feel. I think this is just delicious. From my Bordeaux 2010 primeurs assessment. 17.5-18.5/20 (April 2011)

Duo de Conseillante (Pomerol) 2010: The second wine of Conseillante, introduced only in recent vintages. Not the most dense or concentrated of wines in the glass, rather transparent, although with a vibrant cherry-red hue. Creamy raspberry tinged with chalk comes to mind aromatically, with a rather crunchy and fresh edge to the fruit. The palate has a polished style, straightforward, no real density to it but certainly some firm tannic grip underneath. A rather bold style in fact. Good acid backbone. It does develop more of a creamy presence in the mouth if you give it a chance, but overall a massive step down from the grand vin. Simple and firm, with a little grip to it. From my Bordeaux 2010 primeurs assessment. 15-16/20 (April 2011)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2009: Rather perfumed and elegant on the nose, showing all the gentle and harmonious expression that we should expect from La Conseillante. Nevertheless the palate has a dense composition, although it doesn't feel as slow-baked as the Clinet tasted alongside. There are velvety and yet muscular tannins, which coat the mouth but do leave little gaps here and there for the other elements to show through, with notes of biscuit from the barrels, perfumed red fruits and of course fresh acidity. This has great potential, but is another wine demanding a long cellaring, easily a decade. Alcohol 14%. From a tasting of 2009 Bordeaux at two years of age. 18.5/20 (October 2011)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2009: Harvested at 39.5 hl/ha. A freshly drawn sample. Having just tasted the 2010 barrel sample, it is clear that 2009 has a much darker fruit style than that more recent vintage. There are notes of black plum here, at first with a confit twist although on returning to the wine I don't see that again. It has a very polished, creamy and welcoming style, very broad and seductive in terms of its composition. And yet, despite this near-voluptuous character, it remains so complete and elegant. There is lovely substance to it, the fruits backed up by appropriate weight, and there is some grip underneath, but it is well hidden in this vintage. And there is good acidity too. A harmonious but certainly very rich wine, in keeping with the character of the vintage. From my La Conseillante 1945-2009 tasting report. 18-19/20 (March 2011)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2009: Tasted twice. This is 81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc. Alcohol 14.2%. Lovely fruit quality on the nose, pure damson character, very sweet and evocative, seems a touch jammy at first although a second taste later in the day did not suggest this so much. Certainly a very plush style though. The palate confirms this, sweet fruits, damson and plums, violets, fresh and bright with a good layer of grippy tannin underneath. Quite a polished style, balanced, the tannins deliciously ripe and velvety. Just a hint of warmth belying that firm alcoholic seam. But otherwise extremely good, with delicious and complex potential. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17.5-18.5+/20 (March 2010)

Duo de Conseillante (Pomerol) 2009: The second wine of Conseillante, this is 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Just 300 cases, amounting to 6% of total production. Slightly gamey fruit on the nose. Soft texture on the palate, with a well-rounded feel, but the texture seems a touch diffuse. Slightly detached substance and structure. Really appealing and slightly savoury finish though. Soft, and there is such a polish to the tannins that it is quite easy to taste now, although it will really benefit from a few years in the cellar. Very gentle and appealing. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (March 2010)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2008: Pure and creamy fruit with a dark structural element behind it. The palate has a dry but supple substance from the outset. There is a firm core of tannins here along with the fruit, reserved and dry in character, although the fruit does match up to it very well. Substantial, robustly composed, not soft or supple at all. Firm and appealing to lovers of classically styled wines. A strong finish with a tannic, lingering quality. This is very good and will be a classic in 10-15 years time. From a tasting of 2008 Bordeaux at two years of age. 18+/20 (October 2010)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2008: Hugely aromatic sweet fruit on the nose here, sweet and elegant, with evident purity and enticing red fruit character. The palate is lovely, creamy but with style and finesse. A fine density, ripe and silky tannins, but that purity is maintained. Great potential here, one of the best wines of the commune for sure. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 18-19+/20 (April 2009)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2007: One of the first wines to be tasted at the 2007 UGC event, this has a bright and fresh hue, with notes of toasty barrel on the nose, alongside liquorice and crunchy dark fruits. Quite supple on the palate, attractive, with a gentle feel. Lots of oak apparent at the moment, but there is balance otherwise, with some more grip towards the end. Not overdone. Good. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16.5+/20 (October 2009)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2007: This wine has a really punchy nose, bursting with the aromas of deep and plush fruit, framed by appealingly spicy oak. Rich, creamy and textured on the palate, but not flashy; although a very seductive style, there is also an elegant style here. This is quite impressive to my palate. A potentially delicious wine. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (April 2008)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2006: Glossy, vibrant, bright hue. A very open and expressive nose here, aromatically appealing with nuances of slightly wild fruit, nuanced with the dense, cold clay and iron, but offset by a perfumed core too, fresh, pansy-like, with a touch of fraises des bois. A supple start, quickly showing a very well-judged structure, everything coming into balance, then relaxing into a supple, seductive character, not fleshy but very relaxed and lithe. This has a beguiling character, showing every nuance of its being in this tasting. Lovely. From a 2006 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 18.5+/20 (November 2010)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2006: In this vintage La Conseillante has a just beautiful nose, with vibrant red plum fruit, a savoury character, and well judged, integrated oak. The palate is lovely, supple, composed and elegant, with very stylish ripe tannins, covered by raspberry, plum and vanilla flavours. Delicious, with a fine, savoury grip at the finish. This is a very complete and enticing wine, and was certainly top wine of the day. From a tasting of 2006 St Emilion & Pomerol. 18.5+/20 (October 2008)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2006: A deep, plush, concentrated style, with lots of fruit which has a rather complex, exotic edge to it, a little savage or feral. The same on the palate, although there is a sweetness too, with firm tannins beneath. Very firm in fact, solid confiture fruit, attractively composed, fresh acidity. Complex and interesting. Lovely grip and acidity. Very good indeed, with excellent potential. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 17.5-18.5/20 (April 2007)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2005: This bottle certainly generated some discussion. In terms of appearance it still looks youthful, as it should, but alongside the vibrant red pigment it also has a lightly dusty edge in keeping with its time in bottle. And yet there is considerable evolution on the nose here, which shows unusual nuances of leather and orange peel. It doesn't seem quite right, with nuances of high-toned volatility too. Underneath these notes there are some attractive fruit elements, especially roasted plum, but also a surprisingly gamey edge. A second bottle was requested and opened. Thus this tasting note is disadvantaged as these wines really need more air to show their best. The second bottle does display more of that gamey character, although it is certainly toned down in comparison. And the palate has a more supple and polished feel to it. This is definitely more composed than the first also. Indeed, returning to it, it is starting to show some a more complex seam as it opens up, in quite an exciting fashion. It is aggressively awkward right now, but I think there is great potential here (although I am persisting with a hedged score). But do not be tempted to open any bottles you may have to see for yourself at the moment. From my La Conseillante 1945-2009 tasting report. 17.5-18.5/20 (March 2011)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2005: Rather a perfumed and even slightly confected character on the nose here, with a tinge of cola alongside the restrained dark fruit aromatics. Not domineering though, and there is an attractive smoky substance to it as well. The palate also shows a little strangely today, a little unfocused and loose knit, although there is plenty of substance here. A little fat, certainly creamy, with some central grip. I know I have rated this highly in the past, and so this seems very strange. Nevertheless, I can only mark this wine as I see it today, although I must stress that it can not be a conclusive judgement based on this rather unusual showing. From a 2005 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 16-17+?/20 (November 2009)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2005: This has obvious finesse on the nose, with a pure, plummy fruit presented in a crisp, very well defined fashion. The palate shows all the necessary components, worked in together in a very harmonious style. There is a firm core of tannins, wrapped in a layer of bitter-edged redcurrant and plum fruit. A great composition, with fresh well-balanced acidity and overall superb style. Really super potential here. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 18-18.5+/20 (October 2007)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2004: This has lovely fruit on the nose, just a gentle application of oak, sweet and dense, not overdone, with some very typical Pomerol spice. Fresh, stylish, rich but balanced on the palate, with a good freshness to it. Dense tannins, lots of character, with good acidity underneath it all. Very primary still, but with really fine potential. Excellent wine. From a 2004 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 18/20 (November 2008)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2004: Wow! This has a huge depth of sweet, black fruits that is really impressive. Ripe, velutinous style, structured, nicely extracted, very balanced, complete and gloriously rounded style. It is very primary in character at present, with just a little complex meaty-beefy note to the finish, but there is great potential here. Excellent. From my Bordeaux 2004 assessment. 18/20 (October 2006)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2003: Black fruits and nuts, with some dried-spiced fruit on the nose. Full, weighty and rich on the palate, but not lush, opulent or overdone. There is plenty of firm structure beneath it all, but it sits well with the rest of the wine. Good acidity. Lovely style and great potential here. A real success! From my Bordeaux 2003 assessment. 17.5+/20 (October 2005)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2001: Another very dark wine, with slightly earthy, organic fruit, overlaid with beautifully pure brambly tones. Slightly buttery notes too, from the oak which has not yet quite integrated. Seductive, textured and elegant, yet broad and complete in its composition. Softly balanced acids with a nice tannic structure. Gentle and poised, and overall very admirable. From a tasting of 2001 Pomerol. 17.5+/20 (February 2008)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2000: An attractive fading hue here, showing the additional maturity within. It has a layer of supple and maturing fruit on the nose, sweet and perfumed, with little nuances of leather and a touch of black bean. It feels just a little warm as well. Rather broad on the palate, with a supple character as suggested aromatically, with a polished and firm substance and admittedly there is a lightly gamey feel here as well. Evolving complexities reminiscent of black bean and black tea bring some genuine pleasure here, but in terms of its presence in the mouth it still feels rather disparate and unready, despite having eleven years under its belt already. This is still in need of cellar time I think. From my La Conseillante 1945-2009 tasting report. 17/20 (March 2011)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 1999: A meaty nose on this wine, tasted alongside the 2006 vintage. There is a deep and slightly unusual character, perhaps a touch of funk, certainly it seems quite feral. On the palate it is firm, full and rounded, and shows a meaty character like that found on the nose. Fleshy in texture, with decent acidity alongside. Not a great vintage for La Conseillante, nor for the region as a whole, but a good drinking vintage likely to be approachable very soon. 16+/20 (April 2007)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 1998: A small pour, a consequence of three out of four bottles having been corked. In the glass though, a good youthful colour, as might be expected in a great vintage such as this, and with a great estate. The nose has a dark and spicy character, iron and clay here, with reserved fruit but it is definitely there, warm but dense and concentrated. A very solid entry on the palate, before softening up in terms of fruit through the middle, although it retains a very solid, tannic, structured core. Reserved and really far too young for my palate right now. But it suggests a very fine potential. From a Pomerol Tasting with Roberson Wine. 18/20 (November 2010)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 1990: Harvested at 53 hl/ha, and 21 years later it is poured from magnum. We have moved on ten years here, and there is a much more mature appearance, the wine showing a fading brick-red hue with a wide and soft rim. There is a beautiful nose to it, all very evolved and open, rather relaxed, with nuances of black olives, gravel and rust. Continuing on, the palate is very resolved, gently composed, soft and receptive to examination. There is no tannin here but there is some grip running through the wine, and appealingly fresh acidity too. This is elegant, and although there is a little medicinal twist to it in the palate which doesn't wholly appeal, I keep coming back to it for that ethereal aromatic profile. And on the palate, the sweet substance, so toothsome and polished, also draws me back. Lovely wine. From my La Conseillante 1945-2009 tasting report. 17.5/20 (March 2011)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 1982: Wow! This has a lovely nose, Packed with sweet, pastille-like blackcurrant and cherry fruit, with some soft, slightly buttery oak. The palate is fine, and displays a good balance. Delightful sweet fruit, fully integrated, spicy tannins which provide the backbone, and correct acidity. A good weight and a sweet, rounded edge to the texture. Delicious. From a Pomerol tasting. 18.5/20 (May 2002)

Château La Conseillante (Pomerol) 1945: A négociant bottling. It is an honour to taste this as I know stocks of old vintages at the château are slim. It has a remarkable colour, a polished brick-red hue, and yet there is a fine creamy density to it, fading out to a more golden hue at the rim, and yet the whole wine seems quite opaque. It has an amazing nose, full of toast, liquorice, Marmite of all things, and more commonplace nuances including black tea. It is intense, sweet, and not at all delicate or ethereal as we might expect such an aged wine to be, in that it has real aromatic impact. And, in keeping with this, there is also incredible substance on the palate. It has a beautiful composition for any wine, never mind one long past its sixtieth birthday. This continues on along the palate which maintains its broad, gentle sweetness, and its fine balance, with a freshness to it that is beguiling. In the finish it seems long and even a touch honeyed here. Scoring such wines seems a bit silly, but this was a source of great pleasure, so I will! It would be fascinating to taste a château-bottled example as well. From my La Conseillante 1945-2009 tasting report. 18.5/20 (March 2011)