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Chateau La Conseillante

Like many estates of Bordeaux the exact history of this estate, the exact pathway of transition from one generation to the next as the years progressed, is not wholly complete. Nevertheless, at least with La Conseillante we have a good idea as to the beginning, which features none other than Catherine Conseillan, a metal dealer based in Libourne. Midway through the 18th Century Conseillan, for reasons unbeknown to us today, seems to have established a vineyard close to the border between the communes of Pomerol and St Emilion. Although initial a share-cropping project, a system in which tenants work the land in return for a proportion of the harvest, by 1756 there was certainly active viticulture here, and the wine produced was christened La Conseillante. It was at this point that Conseillan took full control of the estate, thus securing its future as one of Pomerol's most important viticultural properties. The chateau which today graces the vineyard dates from this era, and it is assumed, rightly so I expect, that it was Catherine Conseillan that was responsible for its construction.

La Conseillante Although the founder is known to us, the subsequent succession is not. By the end of the century the name of Conseillan is no longer associated with the estate, and by the 1840s it is in the hands of the Leperche-Princeteau family, who also owned property in Fronsac. Their tenure was not the lengthiest, however, as by 1871 the vineyard was in the possession of Louis Nicolas, and it is from this point that we may trace a direct line through to the owners of today. Under Nicolas, the vineyard's reputation was consolidated, the wine selling for a high price, allegedly matching some illustrious properties from the left bank. This enviable position was maintained despite the death of Louis Nicolas in 1880 and the arrival of phylloxera, which saw the next generation take up the battle against the vine louse in the vineyard. This generation was also named Louis Nicolas, and he was responsible for the creation of the Syndicat Viticole de Pomerol in 1900, and he held the office of president of the organisation for several years. Indeed, there than followed another two generations both also called Louis Nicolas, before the estate came into the ownership of Bernard Nicolas, who ran the business alongside his brother, Francis. He was responsible for an extensive refurbishment of the chai, having engaged the oenological services of Professor Emile Peynaud, who recommended disposing of the ancient wooden vats and replacing them with stainless steel. Today, however, we are one generation further on, in the shape of Bertrand Nicolas who has joined Marie-France Nicolas d'Arfeuille in the running of the estate, assisted by manager Jean-Michel Laporte. Under their direction, I think La Conseillante remains one of the leading estates in Pomerol.

The Conseillante vineyard lies on the very boundary between Pomerol and St Emilion, and one of its nearest neighbours is the St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé estate Cheval-Blanc, just across the road to the east. Indeed, although the nearest vineyards include Vieux Chateau Certan, Pétrus and L'Evangile, all Pomerol thoroughbreds, a number of the Conseillante vines actually lie within the St Emilion commune. Underfoot, the soils are a mix of the types associated with the two communes; some clay, some sand, some gravel too. There are 12 hectares of vines all told, 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, planted in a single block, the characteristics of which have not changed since the acquisition of the estate by the Nicolas family. The vines, planted at a standard density of 6000 vines/ha, see controlled yields, as evinced by a figure of 38 hl/ha for the 2005 vintage, achieved through a rolling process of pruning and bud-thinning, with leaf-thinning to improve quality of ripening. The harvest is manual, with the fruit sorted by an arrangement of four sorting tables, and destemmed prior to a cold maceration and fermentation which is carried out according to plot of origin. The malolactic tends to begin in vat, prior to running off and then gentle pressing, before being finished off in barrels, between 80% and 100% new each vintage, where the wine will rest for up to eighteen months, with a racking every third month. There is an egg white fining prior to bottling, but filtration is avoided. Selection and blending occurs when the wine is still in barrel, with the best lots destined for the grand vin, Chateau La Conseillante, with lesser aliquots going into a second wine, newly created with the 2007 vintage, named Duo de Conseillante, which will see only 12 months ageing in wood, using older barrels. Total production at the estate amounts to about 5000 cases, with the second wine accounting for up to 20% of this figure.

The grand vin itself, when tasted, has done little other than impress this particular palate. One of my earliest experiences was with the 1982 vintage, which is naturally rarely a bad place to start. It was a delicious wine, and yet much more recent vintages match it for style and impact. The 2005 has all the substance and balance required to make it a truly great wine, but the 2003 is also delicious, and other vintages such as the 2004 are not to be sneezed at. The main barrier is price; as we are approaching the top tier of the Pomerol appellation it is only to be expected, I suppose, that it should be high. But for those who have bitten the bullet, and added recent vintages of this particular right banker to the cellar, I should imagine there will be little disappointment in the future. (15/1/08)

Contact details:
Address: 33500 Pomerol
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 51 15 32
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 51 42 39
Internet: www.laconseillante.fr

Chateau La Conseillante - Tasting Notes

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2007

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2007: This wine has a really punchy nose, bursting with the aromas of deep and plush fruit, framed by appealingly spicy oak. Rich, creamy and textured on the palate, but not flashy; although a very seductive style, there is also an elegant style here. This is quite impressive to my palate. A potentially delicious wine. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (April 2008)

2006

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2006: A deep, plush, concentrated style, with lots of fruit which has a rather complex, exotic edge to it, a little savage or feral. The same on the palate, although there is a sweetness too, with firm tannins beneath. Very firm in fact, solid confiture fruit, attractively composed, fresh acidity. Complex and interesting. Lovely grip and acidity. Very good indeed, with excellent potential. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 17.5-18.5/20 (April 2007)

2005

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2005: This has obvious finesse on the nose, with a pure, plummy fruit presented in a crisp, very well defined fashion. The palate shows all the necessary components, worked in together in a very harmonious style. There is a firm core of tannins, wrapped in a layer of bitter-edged redcurrant and plum fruit. A great composition, with fresh well-balanced acidity and overall superb style. Really super potential here. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 18-18.5+/20 (October 2007)

2004

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2004: Wow! This has a huge depth of sweet, black fruits that is really impressive. Ripe, velutinous style, structured, nicely extracted, very balanced, complete and gloriously rounded style. It is very primary in character at present, with just a little complex meaty-beefy note to the finish, but there is great potential here. Excellent. From my Bordeaux 2004 assessment. 18/20 (October 2006)

2003

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2003: Black fruits and nuts, with some dried-spiced fruit on the nose. Full, weighty and rich on the palate, but not lush, opulent or overdone. There is plenty of firm structure beneath it all, but it sits well with the rest of the wine. Good acidity. Lovely style and great potential here. A real success! From my Bordeaux 2003 assessment. 17.5+/20 (October 2005)

2001

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 2001: Another very dark wine, with slightly earthy, organic fruit, overlaid with beautifully pure brambly tones. Slightly buttery notes too, from the oak which has not yet quite integrated. Seductive, textured and elegant, yet broad and complete in its composition. Softly balanced acids with a nice tannic structure. Gentle and poised, and overall very admirable. From a tasting of 2001 Pomerol. 17.5+/20 (February 2008)

1999

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 1999: A meaty nose on this wine, tasted alongside the 2006 vintage. There is a deep and slightly unusual character, perhaps a touch of funk, certainly it seems quite feral. On the palate it is firm, full and rounded, and shows a meaty character like that found on the nose. Fleshy in texture, with decent acidity alongside. Not a great vintage for La Conseillante, nor for the region as a whole, but a good drinking vintage likely to be approachable very soon. 16+/20 (April 2007)

1982

Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol) 1982: Wow! This has a lovely nose, Packed with sweet, pastille-like blackcurrant and cherry fruit, with some soft, slightly buttery oak. The palate is fine, and displays a good balance. Delightful sweet fruit, fully integrated, spicy tannins which provide the backbone, and correct acidity. A good weight and a sweet, rounded edge to the texture. Delicious. From a Pomerol tasting. 18.5/20 (May 2002)