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Chateau Clinet

Today a well known and indeed rather sought after name, Clinet has not always been such a reputable or reliable estate; indeed, over the years, Clinet has seen its fair share of both good times and bad. In recent years the estate has been on a roll, turning out a number of very attractive wines, a trend that can be traced back to the 1989 and 1990 vintages when the wines exceeded the expectations of many, and were soon brought to the attention of Bordeaux drinkers worldwide by the most influential commentator on the region, Parker, who awarded the former of these two vintages the highest possible score.

Looking back to the beginnings of the Clinet estate, we can see that the wines were held in similarly high regard in the early 19th Century. At this time the property was in the hands of the Arnaud family, who also owned Petrus, and although the wines sold for considerably less than those from the less bank, these two Arnaud estates went onto the market at the same price. On the right bank, only the leading wines of the day, Belair and Certan, sold at a higher price. Times were good for Clinet, but as my introduction has suggested, the years that followed saw the estate experience a dip in quality that lasted for many years.

After the Arnauds, Clinet was acquired by the Constant family in the 1860s. The particular Constant in question may well have been to related to a number of other local proprietors who also bore the name, perhaps most likely the one who then owned La Fleur-Pétrus. Nevertheless, the new owner did not keep hold of his new asset for very long, and soon Clinet was being passed from pillar to post as a procession of new owners took up residence; in this light, it is perhaps unsurprising that the quality at Clinet faltered. No estate continues at the top of its respective appellation without strong and consistent leadership, leadership which can encourage the best out of the vines with a developed knowledge of the terroir and local factors, knowledge which can perhaps only come with the experience of many vintages. The property was first purchased by M. Barrat, then it came to a lawyer named Guibert, who was followed by a gentleman called Rideaux and, at the turn of the century, a M. Lugnot.

At this point we enter Clinet's modern era, although this is by no means marked by an upturn in quality. Nevertheless, at least here the rapid turnover of proprietors ends, and we begin to see some stability. Lugnot senior passed the estate onto his daughter, and the property came to the Audy family by marriage. It stayed with this family, passing through two generations, the first being George Audy, a négociant who was more concerned with his wine business than the unpolished gem he had at his fingertips, and the second being his daughter. It was this latter Audy, together with Jean-Michel Arcaute who she married in 1979, that steered Clinet towards its current esteemed position within the Pomerol appellation. Arcaute recruited his friend Michel Rolland in 1985, and as I have already alluded within a few years the wines were receiving plaudits reminiscent, perhaps, of those bestowed upon the wines that were produced over a century earlier.

The actions of Arcaute are worth documenting as they describe how one man, with appropriate commitment, can turn an underperforming estate around. As always, such work begins in the vineyard. Following the devastating frost of 1956 the vines had been replanted using a high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon, which accounted for 25% of the vineyard. This was typically harvested before being fully ripe, although in 1979 when essential staff members were ill it is perhaps only luck that saw any grapes harvested at all. Arcaute, soon after his arrival at the estate in 1980, chose to restructure the vineyards, planting a higher proportion of Merlot. Perhaps most importantly there was a new attention to detail, and the introduction of green harvesting and leaf-thinning no doubt also contributed significantly. The harvest itself was delayed until a point when ripeness was certain, and the machines were replaced by the human hand, which is a far gentler and more selective tool. After transport in newly introduced small plastic trays, the fruit arrived at the chai where it was sorted, and there was more new oak. In addition, a second wine was introduced; you can imagine that the results of such dramatic, sweeping changes were plainly tangible.

Success followed, but despite this Clinet did not stay with Arcaute and his family. In 1991 the GAN Insurance Group acquired a share, although Arcaute stayed on as administrator. This situation lasted only a few years, however, as in 1998 the property was purchased by Jean-Louis Laborde, who had experience with several estates in Hungary. Today the property remains with his family, with his son, Ronan. Having finished his four years of management studies he took up the running of the business in 2003, at the tender age of 23. His is a young team, as his cellarmaster Romain Ducolomb has only 26 years, although Michel Rolland still advises them bringing valuable experience to the mix.

Today the vineyard covers about 9 hectares and is planted with 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon (a significant reduction of its presence in the vineyard) and 5% Cabernet Franc, at a density of 6600 vines/ha. The vines are located at the heart of the Pomerol appellation, close to the church, and they are overlooked by the Clinet chateau, a rather unassuming two-storey house built at the end of the 19th Century. There are three plots; Les Grandes Vignes, which has a gravelly terroir and which is closest to the church, Les Argilles which has more clay and Le Plateau which is directly adjacent to L'Eglise-Clinet. Overall these vines have an average of 40 years, and are interplanted with grass, or alternatively the soil between the rows is ploughed, and chemical treatments are avoided wherever possible. Once harvested and sorted in the chai, refurbished in 2004, the fruit is brought down to wooden vats by gravity-feed, and the wines fermented on a plot-by-plot basis. The vats themselves range from 40 to 60 hectolitres to facilitate this, and all have temperature control. The fermentation and maceration lasts for about four weeks in total, before the free-run and press wines are taken off and put into 100% new oak, where the malolactic fermentation occurs. After 24 months the wine is bottled, with neither fining nor filtration. The grand vin is Chateau Clinet, of which there are about 3000 cases, and there is also a second wine now called Fleur de Clinet, although on its introduction it was named Domaine du Casse. Of this there are usually about 500 cases per annum.

It seems to me that, today, any wine in receipt of a high score from one critic is certain to receive a contradictory low score from another. If that thought were true, then it should apply to Clinet. It has been in receipt of 100 points from Parker, with the 1989 vintage, but naturally there are those who do not appreciate the style. This may be particularly true of recent vintages, where the use of 100% new oak gives birth to a wine which is almost bound to raise a few hackles somewhere, with someone. I personally no longer compare my palate to that of any other critic; after all, I am writing about my opinion of these wines, not somebody else's opinion. Although this thought may shock some individuals, that response says more about their character than it does about mine, I have found. Nevertheless, despite this desire to form my own independent opinions, I do know that the recent vintages of Clinet have not been in receipt of uniform praise from all corners. I have not, however, found too much to complain about. Yes, I like finesse, elegance and direction in a wine, but on the right bank I also find myself looking for opulence, seduction and spice, much more than I do on the left bank. And I find Clinet delivers. The 2005 is delicious, and 2004 has a similar style, and I think Pomerol and the right bank as a whole performed very well in this vintage. The 2003 is also laudable, a well defined style in what was a difficult vintage, in many cases elsewhere producing a jammy, confit style loaded with tannins. The 1997 - my only other post-Arcaute experience of the estate - was, however, dreadful. But I would never hold such a poor effort, in such a wet and rotten vintage, against any one estate. (19/12/07)

Contact details:
Address: Chemin de Feytit, 33500 Pomerol
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 25 50 00
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 25 50 00
Internet: www.chateauclinet.fr

Chateau Clinet - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Clinet (Pomerol) 2008: Dense, creamy, dark fruit, but also fresh and perfumed. A firm palate, moderately fleshy but quite linear, defined and structured. There is a very good substance to it, a little meatiness, and ripe tannins. A dense vin de garde meant for the cellar. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17.5-18.5+?/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Clinet (Pomerol) 2007: A more typical, rather more exotic Pomerol spice here, dense but with fairly fresh and bright fruit. Roasted herb notes, not swamped with oak, overall quite reserved. More supple and gentle on the palate than I expected, quite firm in composition, with light and well composed tannins. Gentle acidity, spicy finish, but rather short. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15.5+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau Clinet (Pomerol) 2007: Bright and aromatic cherry fruit on the nose here. This is fresh, stylish and elegant, although is perhaps a touch firm. There is no excess fat here, this wine has a leaner midpalate and a rather upright, reserved, austere character. But there is elegance as suggested on the nose, and a gentle flesh apparent on the second taste. And once again, underneath, a lot of grip. A note of caution here, but hopefully good, perhaps even better than that. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+?/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Clinet (Pomerol) 2006: A very attractive and evocative wine here, showing a great depth of spiced, savoury fruit. A fine style evident on entry, supple, very balanced and elegant, with ripe, well-covered tannins. Delicious, nutty, exotic flavours, on a fresh and lively palate. This is very well composed. A very good wine indeed. From a tasting of 2006 St Emilion & Pomerol. 18/20 (October 2008)

Chateau Clinet (Pomerol) 2005: Lovely quality here, all blood and iron and very classic Pomerol spice. This has the very suggestion of elegance, and although the palate shows a little soft and loose-knit today without doubt this is a very well composed and elegant wine of considerable potential. It has good freshness in the mouth which many other right-bankers don't have, and it has a perfumed, liquorice-tinged and gravelly perfume. I find this very appealing and I am sure it will drink well after a sensible length of time in the cellar. From a 2005 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 18+/20 (November 2009)

Chateau Clinet (Pomerol) 2005: A very sweet and outgoing character on the nose here, with fresh cranberry and plum fruit. Rich and sweet and quite fleshy on the palate, it is also rather lively. There is a lovely tannic core, over which there lies some fine firm, rather sappy style. Composed, admirable, although in a more modern style, this is really good with fine potential. From my Bordeaux 2005 assessment. 18-18.5+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Clinet (Pomerol) 2004: This has an elegant character, with red and black fruits showing through, but also with a ripe, raw, animal edge to it. It has a nice entry, quite precise and well defined, fresh but with a supple texture. There is a lot of structure, but it is well covered, with a seam of ripe tannins and good acidity nicely countered by ripe, spiced fruit. This has complex fruit character, and a good, dense, substantial finish. Excellent potential. From a 2004 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 17.5+/20 (November 2008)

Chateau Clinet (Pomerol) 2004: A lovely nose here, with complex notes of thyme, black pepper and black fruits, altogether an exotic, suggestive, delightful style. Svelte, balanced, very complete, fresh with great acidity, structured but balanced, so that the tannins hardly show beneath the sweet fruit which runs through to the finish. This is excellent. From my Bordeaux 2004 assessment. 18+/20 (October 2006)

Chateau Clinet (Pomerol) 2003: A seductive nose of ripe blackcurrant fruits and exotic spices. This has real appeal. Elegance, restraint and balance in abundance on the palate. This has a soft, slightly plush texture, moderate weight, and a fine tannic structure. A wine of quality here. A success. From my Bordeaux 2003 assessment. 17+/20 (October 2005)

Chateau Clinet (Pomerol) 2001: A lovely character here, aromas of spicy and peppery fruit with a real brightness to it. A lovely composition on the palate, very complete and well finished. Soft acidity, soft tannins too. In style it is a little plump and I think would benefit from more definition. But on the whole, it is good. From a tasting of 2001 Pomerol. 17+/20 (February 2008)

Chateau Clinet (Pomerol) 1997: The most advanced, red-brown colour of the tasting. A hard, burnt character to the nose, with dirty iodine and stewed broccoli nuances. The palate makes a similar impression, yet there is a good texture, drying tannins, and maturing fruit. This seems like an attempt at over-extraction, trying to make a big wine from a weaker vintage. A disappointment. From a Bordeaux 1997 tasting. 12/20 (February 2003)