Clos du Clocher: Tasting & Drinking
Having encountered the wines of Clos du Clocher on odd occasions over the years, starting with the 1988 vintage many years ago now, and seeing some charm in the story of this tiny domaine, nestled in the heart of the Pomerol appellation, I made sure that I added Clos du Clocher to my list of visits for my 2012 primeur tastings. The wine was exceptionally good, one of a handful of wines in the commune that showed yet again Pomerol had bucked the trend when it came to the vintage in question.
Returning since, I have been able to taste through a greater selection of the wines, Jean-Baptiste Bourotte having put on a ten-vintage vertical for my most recent visit. The older vintages are fading somewhat now, the 1988 which I once found so exciting now seeming rather charming but clearly aged, although it outclasses the 1989 which has not stood the test of time so well. The 1998 is a step up although I prefer the darker and more spicy fruit of the 2001 vintage, and also the rather brooding character of the 2005. Both wines show that there is certainly potential in the vineyard here, and they have appeal. The latter vintage is something of a watershed as this is when Jean-Baptiste took the helm; this is surely significant as tasting through the years I see a climb in quality in more recent vintages, some of which are very good despite there being some difficult years in the mix.
Please log in to continue reading: