Château Saint Georges Côte Pavie: Tasting & Drinking
Château Saint Georges Côte Pavie is one of those estates that has been, for many years, hiding in plain sight. It sits directly behind Château La Gaffelière, and so is not visible from the road up to St Emilion; you will only chance upon it should you take a right, towards Château Pavie. Although expansive, with a homely château and impressive cellars, the buildings are understated and set well back; as the road opens out your gaze is quickly drawn to the glittering facade of Château Pavie beyond, all gilt and glass, marble and chrome, and it is all too easy to overlook the rather more discreet Château Saint Georges Côte Pavie. I have to admit I have driven past it many times, over many years, without ever really becoming aware of its presence.
It is only in recent years that the wines of Château Saint Georges Côte Pavie have come onto my radar, and that surely reflects a Jacques Masson’s renewed enthusiasm for the domaine and its wine. Up until his reawakening the wine was reputedly rather dry and austere, and some have even accused them of being musty and dull. But from the 2009 vintage onwards a real uptick in quality has been apparent. Nevertheless I would maintain that the style here remains rather coarsely structured, robust, with firm tannins, lacking a little in elegance and poise. While there has been much improvement in recent years I feel, especially taking into account the success enjoyed by many of its neighbours, this is an estate that still has some way to travel. (2/11/17)
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