Clos Saint-Julien
One of a number of less well-known properties to be promoted to the rank of grand cru classé in the 2022 iteration of the St Emilion classification, Clos Saint-Julien has been under our noses all this time, hiding in plain sight. Situated right at the top entrance to the town of St Emilion, opposite the vineyard of the now defunct Château les Grandes Murailles (which disappeared from the classification, absorbed into Clos Fourtet, just as Clos Saint-Julien was promoted), it is almost impossible for Clos Saint-Julien to have a more prominent position within the appellation.
And yet, with no towering fairytale château to make its presence known, lending it an understated presence, not to mention a tiny annual production, I suspect there are many committed drinkers of Bordeaux who have never even heard of this property.
During close to twenty years of visits to the region I know I have been guilty of overlooking this estate, hardly noticing its presence here, despite the sign on the back wall of the clos (pictured below). Indeed, I am certain I have driven past and around this diminutive clos more often than I have tasted its wines.
Nevertheless, the few vintages I have tasted suggest to me that there is something of interest here, as was presumably the conclusion of the St Emilion classification tasting committee. In this profile I explore the rather sketchy history of this property, before looking at the vineyards, winemaking and wines today.
