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Chateau Magdelaine

The early history of Magdelaine features the Chatonnet family more than any other, for they owned at least part of this property for perhaps two centuries. They were active viticulturists who were responsible for some expansion of the estate, having augmented their vineyards with the purchase of five hectares of vines from nearby Fonplégade in 1863. By the late 19th Century, however, Magdelaine is documented as having four separate proprietors, although the Chatonnet family own the majority, and it is their portion that will become the Magdelaine we known today. This was a successful time for Magdelaine, the estate having been listed in many relevant documents as being in the top tier of producers alongside Ausone, Belair, Clos Fourtet and others. Indeed, in the early 20th Century it was frequently ranked behind Ausone and Belair, making it third best in St Emilion. At this time the estate passed from the Chatonnets to their son-in-law, a notary named Jullien, although it remained with the new owners for only a few decades. By 1952 the property was acquired by Etablissements Jean-Pierre Moueix who had recently started acquiring vineyards in the area, having not long purchased La Fleur-Pétrus in Pomerol. Although Magdelaine had clearly once had an illustrious reputation, by this time, following the traumas of the early 20th Century, the sheen was dulled somewhat. After phylloxera, oidium and war the estate was in a poor condition, and it was down to Moueix to reclaim Magdelaine's status by restoration and replanting, starting in 1954.

MagdelaineThe Magdelaine vineyards cover 10.5 hectares in all, and are situated close to the town of St Emilion on the edge of the St Martin plateau, with 6 hectares on the classic limestone terroir of the plateau, and the balance on the slopes running down towards the Dordogne, an area which tends to be more dominated by clay. The vines surround the chateau itself, an elegant two-storey house which today, sadly, remains uninhabited. A Premier Grand Cru Classé, the estate is flanked by similarly qualified neighbours including Canon to the north and Belair to the east. The majority of the vines currently on the estate were planted in 1976, although there are some that date back to 1921, elderly citizens who obviously survived the devastating frosts of 1956, and thus the average age is somewhere in the region of 40 years. The vineyard is dominated by Merlot which accounts for 90%, and this is true of all the Moueix estates of which there are many in St Emilion today. The balancing 10% is Cabernet Franc, there being no role for Cabernet Sauvignon here, and the planting density is a fairly standard 6000 vines/ha. Once harvested, naturally by hand, with a yield usually about 40 hl/ha, the wine is fermented in stainless-steel vats, with a maceration lasting up to four weeks. The chai itself is behind the chateau, with cellars created by the extension of natural limestone caves. After malolactic fermentation the wine goes into oak for up to 20 months, using a rather restrained 50% new oak with each vintage. There is no fining or filtration before bottling. The end result takes two forms, firstly the grand vin Chateau Magdelaine (approximately 3000 cases per annum) and a second wine, once called Chateau Saint Brice but more recently renamed Les Sanges de Magdelaine (typically 2000 cases per annum). The latter usually includes the produce of vines closer to the Dordogne, where the favourable limestone and clay terroirs give way to a more alluvial, sandy soil, as well as from the younger vines on the estate.

My tasting notes for Magdelaine are sparse, and straddle a ten year divide, which leaves me unable to pronounce with authority on the quality of the wines. It is worth noting, however, that the 1998 fared well in a horizontal tasting which looked at all of the wines classed as Premier Grand Cru Classé other than Ausone. Having said that, there were also many I rated more favourably. A more mature vintage, the 1988, stacked up very nicely when tasted alongside other wines, of St Emilion and Pomerol, in a tasting which included some illustrious names such as Figeac and Latour-à-Pomerol. These experiences reflect other opinions that Magdelaine is one of the leading St Emilion properties, especially in the style that combines richness and fruit with elegance, and I look forward to tasting future vintages. (2/11/07)

Contact details:
Address: Ets. Jean-Pierre Moueix 54, quai du Priourat, 33502 Libourne
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 51 78 96
Fax +33 (0) 5 57 51 79 79

Chateau Magdelaine - Tasting Notes

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2008

Chateau Magdelaine (St Emilion) 2008: A Moueix property. Aromatic fruit, although there is a little green, vegetal twist at the back of it, with a celery-celeriac character. Fairly firm palate, slightly raw tannins, with moderate texture. There is a firm, slightly bitter grip. Interesting wine, but that green character certainly detracts. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15-16+?/20 (April 2009)

2007

Chateau Magdelaine (St Emilion) 2007: A more stony character than the other Moueix St Emilions, but warmly expressive. Less impact on the palate than I expected, less flattering, with ripe and peppery tannins. It is firm, with a lot of tannic structure and acid, and not a wealth of flesh. Again, a sample showing a touch too much extraction for me I think, but it is borderline. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 13.5-14.5+/20 (April 2008)

1998

Chateau Magdelaine (St Emilion) 1998: This is a small estate, with just 10.5 ha of vines encircling the chateau. These are Merlot 90% and Cabernet Franc 10%, although this year had less Cabernet Franc in the blend. A moderate density of colour, with sweet, plump, black fruits and some oak. A beautiful texture on the palate, with a velvet edge. It is firm and balanced, with fine tannins and great, fresh acidity. Concentrated, with violet and liquorice flavour. Straightforward but complexity may come with time. From a 1998 St Emilion masterclass. 16.5/20 (May 2004)

1988

Chateau Magdelaine (St Emilion) 1988: A Premier Grand Cru Classé. A moderate depth of colour here, with some dark fruits and hard, inky notes on the nose. Closed, tannic and backward on the palate, but brimming with potential. Full, structured, with plenty of fruit still. With time it reveals some complex, vegetal notes. Lovely. From a 1988 Bordeaux tasting. 18+/20 (March 2004)