Clos Saint-Julien: Tasting & Drinking
The wine of Clos Saint-Julien fascinates, its reliance on Cabernet Franc not unusual taken in the context of the 21st-century climate, as in recent times many of the leading châteaux in St Emilion have shifted away from Merlot and towards Cabernet Franc, planting more of this latter variety, and increasing the proportion dedicated to the grand vin. Clos Saint-Julien seems to have been ahead of the curve in this respect; indeed, if anything, the percentage of Cabernet planted here has been in decline, coming down from a remarkable 70% (including both Franc and Sauvignon) just four decades ago.
The style is attractive, with plentiful fruit, quite firm and unsurprisingly Cabernet in style, although sometimes the use of 100% new oak shows through a little too plainly. Nevertheless, give these wines time, as they deserve it. Both the 2022 and 2023 vintages, tasted as barrel samples admittedly, have impressed. (8/8/24)
