Château Soutard: Tasting & Drinking
While Château Soutard may have great terroir, in the eyes of Jean-Luc Thunevin at least, the wines do not at present seem to realise this supposed potential. Indeed, there is limestone and clay here, the vineyard mere yards from some notable names turning out wines of genuine interest. Despite this the wines seem reluctant and withdrawn, rarely raising their heads above the parapet. One of the most convincing in recent years was the 2015 vintage, a superb year for the St Emilion appellation, one where the old adage concerning the effect of a rising tide on every vessel is appropriate. Even then, while I felt the wine to be sweet, confident and attractive, it was never going to set my palate on fire.
Otherwise, I rather liked the 2010 vintage, one where we should perhaps expect similar quality. Other vintages give us decent wines, no more than that. There is potential here, but I think the new owners have some distance to travel before it is truly realised.
Jean-Luc Thunevin dropped me off just around the corner from his garage (yes, the garage) in the centre of St Emilion, and I headed down to the restaurant where I had agreed to meet my family. I passed the heavyweight, multi-château and multi-vintage wine list to my eldest son, suggesting maybe he should check out what vintages of Château Soutard they were listing. He flipped it open, thumbing quickly through the pages. “I think I will check what vintages of Ausone they have first”, he replied.
I have taught him well. If only he had the money to pay for a bottle. (25/2/17)
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