Château Fonplégade: Tasting & Drinking
As I have already mentioned, perhaps five pages ago, many modern-day viticulteurs in St Emilion speak of this terroir with a sense of admiration that borders on awe. It is not just the mid-slope position, I think it is also that sheltered shell-like depression. These positive opinions of the terroir can be traced back a century and more, to ancient editions of Cocks et Féret. Of Château Fonplégade (along with a group of other high-flying grand cru classé estates) the authors once wrote:
“They are undoubtedly in the leading group of grands crus classés, one of those which one day or another will break away, catch up with and join the premiers”
Sadly, Château Fonplégade never realised this unstated ambition, instead experiencing a downward spiral of decline for much of the 20th century, before a two-step revitalisation came, first with Armand Moueix, more recently with Stephen and Denise Adams. In the meantime, a number of other estates have made that leap, swelling the ranks of the premier grand cru classé estates. With continued efforts, however, I see no reason why Château Fonplégade might not one day make the same move. The terroir is right, the new proprietors seem determined and dedicated, and the work in vineyard and cellars seems orientated towards quality above all else.
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