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Chateau Climens
Chateau Climens has a lengthy and fairly well documented history stretching back perhaps 500 years, although it does not seem that viticulture was undertaken here until the 17th Century. Throughout much of the early history of Chateau Climens it was owned by the Roborel family, who purchased the property in the middle of the 16th Century. They were responsible for expanding the estate and oversaw the production of both white and red wines, although obviously today Climens produces no red. The descendents of Roborel continued to manage the estate up to and past the Revolution in the latter years of the 18th Century, seemingly escaping the usual punishments meted out at the time because the estate appeared to be failing badly, and much of the vineyard had been uprooted. Nevertheless, it was soon sold, following the death of Jean-Baptiste Roborel in 1800.
The new owner of the estate
was Jean Binaud, the first of a succession of owners during the 19th Century,
perhaps the most notable being
the Lacoste family who replanted the vineyards and also saw the estate
classified as a Premier Cru. Eloi Lacoste also owned Chateau Pexiotto (a
long-vanished growth of the region), and in 1871 he sold both estates to Alfred
Ribet. There were some signs that the vineyard was once again failing, as only a
portion of the 27 hectare estate was in production, and the quantity of wine
made had fallen by half. With the arrival of phylloxera this situation only
worsened, and in 1885 Ribet sold the estate to the Gounouilhou family, who had
also recently gained a foothold at Doisy-Dubroca following the marriage of its
proprietor Mlle Faux to Henri Gounouilhou. Pexiotto was sold to the nearby
Rabaud estate and subsumed. No such fate awaited Climens, however, as Henri Gounouilhou
and his descendents eventually - after the battles against phylloxera and oidium - oversaw a golden age
for Climens, as the estate grew not only in size but in reputation, producing
wine which in some vintages rivalled Yquem in terms of
quality and price. Nevertheless, by 1971 the family
had to sell, and so the estate came to Lucien Lurton, head of the Lurton family,
who own a number of Bordeaux chateaux including
Brane-Cantenac and
Durfort-Vivens. Lurton
acquired Climens together with Doisy-Dubroca at a time when
Sauternes seemed
sadly neglected by wine-drinkers who would clamour for red Bordeaux. Things now
seem to have changed and Lurton's purchase looks to have been a great
investment; recent vintages of Climens, now under the direction of Bérénice
Lurton since 1992, have seen the price creeping upwards.
There are 29 ha of vineyards at Climens, in two blocks adjacent to the house,
planted entirely to Semillon vines (the Lurtons have replaced what little
Sauvignon and Muscadelle there was with this variety), at a density of 6600
vines/ha and an average age of 35 years. The soil underfoot has a red hue
typical of the soils of Barsac, and includes a thin layer of clay and
ferruginous sand, over deeper rocks of fissured limestone. The land is a highpoint for Barsac, although it is
actually at an elevation of only 20 m. Yields vary with the vintage, swinging between an
incredibly low 9 hl/ha and a huge 25 hl/ha, the latter being in the great 1986
vintage; remember that the
methods behind producing Sauternes will always mean yield figures are low when
compared with those for dry red Bordeaux. Looking at just the grand vin,
Chateau Climens, fruit destined for just this wine is harvested typically at
7 hl/ha, 13 hl/ha for the second wine, Cyprès de Climens, averaging the
figures over twenty years. The
grapes are harvested in successive tries with careful selection in the
vineyard, before a horizontal pressing and fermentation and maturation in
separate lots in small oak barrels, of which 35 to 45% are replaced with each
vintage. Chaptalisation may be employed, but rarely. The wine spends up to
two years in oak before bottling without filtering or filtration, with a typical
production of 3000 cases per annum. The style of wine is
elegant, racy, with great vibrancy, all hallmarks of good Barsac. But Climens
has the potential to develop greatly with bottle age, taking on a plump, rich
opulence. These are great wines and they are very worthy of cellaring, something
I have undertaken myself with a number of vintages.
(17/8/04, updated 21/6/07)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau Climens, 33720 Barsac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 27 15 33
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 27 21 04
Internet:
www.chateau-climens.fr
Chateau Climens - Tasting Notes
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Chateau
Climens (Barsac) 2005: There is a good depth here, and a meaty concentration, as
well as something that some of the other wines do not have, a nice concentration
of beeswax and botrytis character. Big fat, creamy and unctuous, with lots of
flashy character and deep, velutinous texture. Candied fruit flavour, and some
nice acidity too. Lots of appeal here. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at two
years of age. 18.5+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau Climens (Barsac) 2004:
This has a very deep, almost meaty nose, certainly showing a huge amount of
depth and complexity rather than just primary notes. Lovely style on the palate,
again showing great depth and complexity, with soft acidity melded with honey,
stone fruit, quince and pineapple, roasted together in a very complete panoply
of flavour. Very distinct style in this vintage, huge and really incomparable;
there is not a wine here close to this. From my
2004 Bordeaux
assessment. 18+/20 (October 2006)
Chateau Climens (Barsac) 2003: A lovely nose, of mint-scented botrytis
character. A huge palate, showing massive opulence, but balanced out by good
acidity. Plump, with delightful fresh white fruits, wrapped in some residual oak
and botrytis-quince flavour. That minty character is there too. This has a
beautiful presence on the palate, terminating in a clean and fresh finish. A
success! From my 2003 Bordeaux
assessment. 18.5/20 (October 2005)
Chateau Climens (Barsac) 2002:
A fine nose here, showing some lovely botrytis, with quite a honeyed, fresh and
well defined character. Full, well delineated, quite creamy, an elegant and very
appealing superb style, voluptuous yet fresh on the palate. A great character,
grippy, with lots of impact, and it has the potential to age quite well I think.
Impressive for the vintage. 17+/20 (February 2007)
Chateau Climens (Barsac) 2001:
From a half bottle.
This wine has a vibrant and golden hue. And a glorious nose, almost ethereal, in
fact. It shows great vivacity, with aromas of honey and orange, and a sprinkling
of botrytis, and yet it has the freshness of morning dew and spring water. As
the nose suggests, the palate has a crystal clear definition, with a vivacious
presence of oil of oranges plumped up by gorgeous extract and a chalky
minerality. This well delineated wine the fades into a fine, lingering finish.
There is fabulous potential here; this has to be one of the better wines of the
vintage. From a 2001 Sauternes
assessment. 19+/20 (June 2006)
Cyprès de Climens (Barsac) 2001: Vibrant, sweet, honeyed fruit on the
nose. A fabulous palate for a second wine, but this reflects the quality of the
vintage. Smoky, with minerals and notes of chalk. Piles of lush texture, with
moderate acidity and good botrytis. A little oak still evident here.
Approachable now but will improve for several years yet and should drink for a
decade at the very least. 17+/20 (May 2004)
Chateau Climens (Barsac) 1999:
A vibrant yellow-gold, with quite some depth to the colour. The nose is simply
delicious, with aromas of honey, oranges, botrytis and just a bare hint of
caramel. This is a creamy yet elegant wine on the palate, textured and sweet,
but with an appealing balance provided by moderate acidity which lends the wine
an almost silky presence. This is very fluid and complete, with finesse. Good
length too on the finish where it reveals a little grip. Excellent. 18+/20 (June 2007)
Chateau Climens (Barsac) 1998:
Nice, crystal clear, golden hue. Nose very concentrated, sweet, candied
marmalade fruit. Oranges, floral, peppery. Certainly outgoing and appealing.
Nice, creamy weight, not the most forward acidity ever experienced, but a nice
broad presence on the palate, certainly good sweetness, a little depth and
character. A little stretched out in the midpalate, with good woody grip and not
really enough presence to cope. Not quite the acidity or balance that I recall
from my last tasting, but this is a good effort for the vintage I think. 15/20 (June 2007)
Chateau Climens (Barsac) 1998:
A very gentle nose leading to a precise, vibrant, beautifully balanced palate,
although without any great presence of botrytis. Lovely texture and appropriate
structure. Surprisingly for Climens, reflecting the vintage perhaps, this is
absolutely ready now. I think this would offer very good value as this vintage
is not highly regarded. 16/20 (May 2004)
Chateau Climens (Barsac) 1994: A deep,
burnished orange-gold colour. An intense nose, with challenging, densely
flavoured marmalade, and bags of botrytis character. This follows the initial
impression of excess volatile acidity, which dissipates after some time in the
glass. This also shows through on the palate, although once it has blown off the
wine demonstrates delightful balance, with pleasing acidity backing up a rich,
honey on toast, botrytis, dark and thick-cut marmalade character. Not one of
Climens top vintages but full of character and immensely pleasurable. 16/20 (June 2002)
Chateau Climens (Barsac) 1979: From my cellar. A moderately rich hue.
A lovely nose, full of quince, marmalade, oranges, smoke and vanilla, with
floral, peachy notes too. Rich, full, sweet, creamy and yet vibrant on the
palate, with orange pith, quince and minerals here. There is a little suggestion
of botrytis but it is not powerful. Lovely vanilla and white pepper
characteristics. A solid wine which finishes well, with some length. 17.5/20 (August 2004)
Chateau Climens (Barsac) 1978:
A good, mid-gold colour. Very open nose, with plenty of honey and toffee swirled
together. Fresh, balanced, vibrant palate, with some botrytis still evident.
Quite minerally, with honey and toffee as found on the nose. Still has a little
grip, and still has plenty of texture and body. A sweet pastille-like finish is
the only real criticism. Impressive for a weaker vintage. 17/20 (May 2004)
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