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Chateau Coutet

The history of Chateau Coutet dates back to the 13th century, hundreds of years before anyone even dreamt of planting vines on the then marshy, now prosperous, Médoc. Some parts of the chateau date from that period, although it has been extensively augmented, with a 14th century chapel, two 16th century towers and a remodelling in the 18th century. Although those early buildings remain, little is known about the ownership of Coutet during that period, and even the derivation of the name is obscure, although it is likely that it relates to one of its original owners. The earliest records show us that in 1643 the estate was purchased by local politician Charles de Guérin, from whom it passed to Jean de Pichard in 1695, and then in 1788 onto Gabriel-Barthélémy-Romain de Filhot, who also owned Doisy-Daëne and, of course, Chateau Filhot (which explains the striking resemblance between the Coutet and Filhot labels). I hope he made the most of his time at Coutet, because by 1794 he found himself at the wrong end of the guillotine, as did his wife, Thérèse Filhot Chimbaud. The Filhot estate, which included Coutet, was presumably divided up and auctioned off, as was the customary practice with confiscated property. Nevertheless, the Filhot name remained intimately associated with the estate, and within a few years it was back in their hands. Marie-Geneviève de Filhot, the orphaned daughter of Gabriel-Barthélémy-Romain and Thérèse, married Antoine-Marie de Lur-Saluces of Chateau d'Yquem, and by 1810 the political scene was sufficiently different for her to take possession of Coutet once again. Together she and Antoine-Marie owned not only Yquem and Coutet, but also Fargues, De Malle and the long lost Chateau Piada.

The Lur-Saluces family maintained control of Coutet for over a century, but by 1922 production had dropped off significantly, perhaps as a result of the oidium epidemic of the mid-19th century, followed of course by phylloxera. The economic climate had also changed significantly, and through the 20th century the demand for Sauternes was to decline. At this point they decided to sell the estate, and it was taken on by the Société Immobilière des Grands Crus de France, who had acquired a number of significant Bordeaux properties, including Brane-Cantenac, Issan, Lagrange and Branaire-Ducru. Their tenure, however, was short, and Coutet was acquired after just a few years by Henri-Louis Guy, an industrialist, who invested in the property (installing the hydraulic presses that he himself manufactured), but he soon died, bequeathing the estate to one of his two daughters, a Madame Thomas. A widower, she subsequently married Edmond Rolland, who left his ecclesiastical position as Abbot in order to wed her. Together, they resided at Coutet and ran the estate with some skill, up until the point of Madame Rolland-Guy's death in 1977. It was at that point that the current owners, the Baly family, took control. Marcel Baly has since passed the estate on to his sons, Dominique and Philippe, who I have met a number of times. Dominique is the showman of Chateau Coutet; effusive and approachable, his is the friendly face of Bordeaux. He clearly loves his wine, and loves other people to love his wine too. His brother, by contrast, is quieter, but has much of importance to say on the economics and day-to-day running of the property.

This is a large vineyard, 38 hectares all told at an altitude of just 12 metres above the Gironde, planted up with 75% Semillon and 23% Sauvignon Blanc, the remaining 2% Muscadelle, with an ongoing program of replanting. The vines are planted on the usual Bordeaux rootstocks Riparia-Gloire and 420A with a density of 7600 vines/ha. As is typical of the Barsac vineyards the soils are a mix of gravel and red clay over a limestone bedrock, and yields are typically 18 hl/ha, with the number of tries reaching double figures in some vintages. Only 50% of the harvest finds its way into the grand vin, the remainder destined for the second wine or being sold off with young vines, those less than seven years old, particularly subject to exclusion. Fermentation is en barrique but is temperature controlled, with half of the barrels renewed each vintage. The most commonly encountered wine is the grand vin Chateau Coutet (up to 4500 cases per annum) which is aged in oak for up to 16 months, followed perhaps by the Chartreuse de Coutet, the second wine. There is also a dry Graves, the Vin Sec de Chateau Coutet. The crème de la crème, however, is a super-selection named Cuvée Madame, only released in vintages of exceptional quality. This cuvée was created by Edmond Rolland in honour of his wife, and is the result of a very precise berry-by-berry selection in the vineyard, the harvest seeing a light pressing and fermentation followed by three years in oak. It is exclusive, with a production of perhaps 700 cases (in selected vintages only, namely 1943, 1949, 1959, 1971, 1975, 1981, 1986, 1988, 1989, 1990 and 1995) and is priced accordingly. Interestingly there was once also a dry red, but this has now been discontinued.

My own opinion of Coutet? This is one of the leading properties in Sauternes and Barsac. It displays the fresh, racy acidity that is said to typify the wines of Barsac, more so than those of Sauternes, together with an ethereal, floral character in the best examples. It is one of just two premier cru properties located in Barsac, the other being Climens. The latter frequently excels, and indeed many of the chateaux in this region of Bordeaux produce excellent wines, but Coutet does, from time to time, demonstrate that extra vibrancy and excitement that persuades me to buy as well as try. Well done, Dominique and Philippe! (9/2/06, updated 19/6/07)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Coutet, 33720 Barsac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 27 15 46
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 27 02 20
Internet: www.chateaucoutet.com

Chateau Coutet - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 2009: Residual sugar 146 g/l. Fabulously vibrant on the nose, lifted and rather direct, much more so than many of the wines from neighbouring Sauternes, with an ethereal and crystalline character, plus nuances of star fruit and plum. Balanced texture, fresh and direct, with lots of composed substance. Intense purity and great elegance here, and also a seam of botrytis. Freshness too. Excellent. Surely one of the greatest examples of Coutet ever? From my 2009 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 18.5-19.5+/20 (March 2010)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 2008: This has a fairly light nose, a little stony, and just a tinge of vanilla. Leaner in texture, a little more diffuse than I expected, with a solid composition underneath, and a little grip. Not the usual definition, weight or intensity here. A decent effort in a difficult vintage though. From my 2008 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 2007: A brilliant nose here, a touch more marmaladey botrytis richness than some, with sweet oranges and pineapple, all presented in a very bright and fresh style. The palate is just beautiful, elegant, just dancing along. There is richness as the nose suggested but it is wrapped up in a finely balanced. Superb. From my tasting of 2007 Sauternes at two years of age. 18.5+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 2007: A fine, minerally, aromatic nose here, rich and intense, with lemon curd and apricot aromas. A fleshy beginning, thickly textured through the midpalate, but with good peppery acidity providing some balance. A lovely composition, intense yet nicely poised, and with a lively finish and sweet length. This is potentially excellent. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 17-18+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 2006: Beautifully fresh citrus fruits on the nose, pure and aromatic. Great substance here, really quite a fat texture, but underneath it all a minerally-chalky seam, giving a fresh and vibrant feel to it. Lovely substance leading into a sweet-sappy finish. Long. For the vintage I think this is very impressive. From a 2010 Coutet update. 17+/20 (February 2010)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 2006: A gentle, fresh, orange marmalade aroma here; it is quite dense, with a slightly high-toned element to it. Fresh, quite tight on the palate, firm, with a pastille-like intensity to the fruits. Nice acidity, and showing a little more botrytis than some of the other wines here today. With time in the cellar I think this might be a very nice wine indeed. From my tasting of 2006 Sauternes at two years of age. 16.5+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 2005: From a half bottle. The first of a large consignment recently added to the cellar; I will be drinking this for years! Mid-gold hue on inspection. The nose has elements of marmalade, bitter oranges, apricot and certainly the richness of botrytis. Fabulously rich, honeyed, impressive, full and broad and densely sweet and compact. Still quite primary but with deep fruit complexity, with notes of almonds. This will drink well for a very long time, but I think I will leave it for a few years before I open another. Very long. From a 2010 Coutet update. 18+/20 (February 2010)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 2004: Very youthful on the nose, with aromas of honeysuckle and honey alongside some sweet and unresolved oak. The palate has a fat and creamy nature, with a well rounded and broad presence. Although rich it has elegance and freshness, defined by a nice backbone of acidity, as well as a lovely floral edge. This is really very good indeed and could well be excellent one day. From a Bordeaux 2004 tasting. 17.5+/20 (November 2007)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1999: This has a lovely intensity and richness on the nose, and a ripe array of honey and honeysuckle to provide light and interest. Rounded, but fresh and deliciously broad, but with gentle flavours of a floral nature like those on the nose, with oranges, blossom and botrytis. A nice vein of acidity and a lovely finish and length. Overall very stylish and certainly of very high quality. And I suspect it will get better and better. 18+/20 (November 2007)

Vin Sec de Chateau Coutet (Graves) 1999: An expressive nose, with good fruit which has a slightly tropical character. Clean, fresh, limpid palate. Wonderful acidity, a tiny bit of grip, and a plush, rounded mouthfeel. A firm and fabulous length. This needs three or four years in the cellar, after which it should drink for decades. 16+/20 (May 2004)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1998: More exuberance on the nose than I expected here, with marmalade richness from the botrytis and elements of smoke. Not so expressive on the palate, although it certainly has an appealing sappy and substantial character. Perhaps not the vigour and definition of a truly great vintage but this wine still has plenty of character and a fine seam of acidity giving it lift and life. Still fairly raw and primary at present though; it needs time. From a 2010 Coutet update. 16.5+/20 (February 2010)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1998: Good vibrant fruit on the nose, displaying a pleasing level of botrytis too. Firm, with good quince fruit, and very good sweetness on the palate, with a barley sugar, sweet and smoky character. The acidity is fairly low, which gives it a very open, accessible, eager-to-please feel. This is an early drinker (like some other 1998s) and is approachable now. Very good. 16.5/20 (November 2005)

Chartreuse de Coutet (Barsac) 1998: The second wine. This was a year of moderate botrytis only, say Dominique Baly, and this shows through in the wine. Sweet fruit on the nose, with just a little botrytis. Acacia and floral notes on the palate; there is some botrytis here too but it adds little to the overall texture or impact. Although elegant it is still a little awkward and although approachable now it needs a couple more years to show its best I think.15.5/20 (May 2004)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1997: A fabulous nose here, full of cinder toffee and rôti fruit, roasted caramel aromas and more. This is divine and very suggestive. One the palate it starts off fresh, a touch lean and reserved, but rapidly blossoms out to a full, creamy, textured wine carrying a complex array of flavours. The acidity is perfectly balanced, giving a subtle freshness. This is very fine. Every time I taste it this just gets better and better, as does my score. 19+/20 (November 2006)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1997: Last tasted only a year or so ago. This has great concentration on the nose, with powerful aromas leaping up from the glass. Piles of botrytis on the palate, which is loaded with quince flavour. Fine, grippy style, with a great presence in the mouth, with superb acidity giving a much needed precision. This has wonderful structure, and is built for the long haul. Seems just a touch more impressive than my last tasting - perhaps an effect of putting this alongside the 1998. 18.5+/20 (November 2005)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1997: A rich botrytised nose, and plenty of botrytis-derived sensuality on the palate too; this wine has real body, character and texture. It is firm and grippy, but has a plush, rounded mouthfeel, and the floral complexity one seeks also. A firm, fabulous length. This needs another four or five years, and will then drink for decades. 18+/20 (May 2004)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1996: Lots of high-toned honeyed fruit on the nose here. This wine has decent concentration and is quite appealing, which I find quite impressive for the vintage. It is rich, soft and rounded, with moderate acidity. Good depth of flavour. Attractive style and a very worthwhile effort. 16+/20 (November 2006)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1994: A pale golden hue, belying the vintage. An appealing nose, offering up some scents of quince and oranges presented in a very sweet and bright style, although there is some volatility too. The initial impression is of a sweet, creamy wine with a decent substance, although through the midpalate and on subsequent tastes it is clear that this wine is a touch simple and straightforward. It is delicate, with a rather floral, chalky character. Not a bad wine, but a lightweight with a short finish. But this is all within the context of a weak vintage for Sauternes & Barsac. A good effort, I suppose. From a 1994 Bordeaux tasting. 15.5/20 (April 2007)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1994: Not a great vintage for Sauternes, and my only previous experience has been Climens (enjoyable) and Yquem (dodgy). The 1994 Coutet has recently been dumped on the UK market. Pale hue. Rather simple but fruity nose, showing pineapple and candied citrus peel with a pleasing chalky, minerally depth. Sadly this doesn't translate to the palate, which is rather light and certainly lacks the botrytis derived complexity of a great vintage. A little dilute through the midpalate. Smoky and a little sulphurous. In its favour it has sweet, somewhat tropical, fruit flavour, and fresh acidity providing a much needed sense of balance. Shows some fat on the finish, but this is rather short. It has faults, but it has good points too, and is available at a very low price. Drink now - although I have a couple more halves and I think I will leave these to see what happens with time. 15/20 (August 2005)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1991: A moderately intense colour. The nose has aromas of marmalade and quince. Lovely weight and texture on the palate, and very nicely balanced. There is, however, some dilution of concentration and flavour through the midpalate, although with exposure to air (24 hours) the palate fleshed out somewhat. There's a savoury richness on the finish. A worthwhile effort for this disastrous vintage. Drink up. 14.5/20 (July 2002)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1989: I have plenty of this vintage in the cellar, but what harm tasting it again with Aline Baly? A fabulously deep, burnished hue. Dense and minerally on the nose, and with a lovely soft and sappy presence on the palate, with the density of fruit and pure grit of a great vintage. The aromas and flavours of roasted oranges, quince and smoke. A superb wine with a long life ahead of it yet. From a 2010 Coutet update. 18.5/20 (February 2010)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1989: A rich, burnished, orange-gold hue. The nose is delightful, classically rich botrytis, with a medley of aromas including oranges, sweet marmalade, toffee and a little high-toned complexity. Quince, overt rôti fruit, fabulous style. On the palate beautiful purity, richness and elegance. Rounded, polished, seamless and complete, very smoky in character, and showing more grip and intensity on the finish. Good but not overt acidity; this is really nicely balanced. Sweet, tangerine fruit length, that goes on and on. Excellent wine. What remained of this I enjoyed over several days, and it held up very well indeed. There's no rush to drink up here, and I am glad of that; I have quite a few bottles left in the cellar yet. From a 1989 vintage twenty years on tasting. 18.5/20 (November 2009)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1989: A gloriously rich, copper-gold can be viewed through the clear glass of the bottle, and once in the glass this intense display is hardly diminished. It suggests opulence, although the nose releases a measured array of aromas which lend hope that this will not be over the top. There is a vein of sweet oranges and marmalade, but also apricots and nuts, and that heady, quince-tinged rôti characteristic which is so difficult to describe but comes from the action of a good smattering of botrytis. The palate has an immediately apparent weight and a delicious, seamless presence on the palate, but also has a fairly smart acidity and even some grip towards the finish. A good, broad, sweet and creamy style, with a butter twist right at the end, and perhaps unsurprisingly a good length. Excellent. A 2007 Christmas wine. 18.5/20 (December 2007)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1983: Sampled from two half bottles, both with a lovely rich golden colour. The first showed rich botrytis on the nose, and a powerful, sweet palate. Good fruit acids. Notes of elderflower and acacia. This is the lighter of the two bottles, and it is very good. The second is better, showing even greater richness and power. Fuller and richer on the palate, more fat and weighty. Also has lovely, balancing acidity. This is lovely stuff. From a 1983 vintage twenty year on blind tasting. 18/20 (April 2003)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1981: Tasted alongside Chateau Rieussec 1981. A moderate colour. Sweet, racy, some botrytis on the nose. Very impressive palate for a lesser vintage; Lovely honey, quince, pineapple and citrus elements to be found, with firm acidity. Very good. 17.5/20 (July 2004)

Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1961: A rich, golden-orange hue. Roasted oranges and marmalade on the nose, rather bright, rather leafy and herby, but certainly a rich style. This has a nice, creamy character on the palate, fresh with decent acidity, but with those rich characteristics that were found on the nose. A good broad presence, fairly lively, attractive, a little grip to it even. Nice length. Very well put together, but more vigour and complexity would be appreciated. From a 1961 Bordeaux tasting. 16.5/20 (June 2007)