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Domaine de Chevalier

Domaine de Chevalier hides in a pine forest at the western edge of the region known since 1987 as Pessac-Léognan, the more northerly vineyards of Graves. This region is the frontline for the battle of vineyards against the suburbs of Bordeaux. At the northernmost point the two sit uncomfortably together, with the illustrious Chateau Haut-Brion and its counterparts - Laville-, La Mission- and Latour-Haut Brion - encircled by suburban streets. To the west, Chateau Pape-Clément has just a little more breathing space. Further south, past Chambery and Villenave d'Ornon, the majority of the chateaux and vineyards are to be found. Tucked away in the south-western corner, shielded by trees (which can make the property very difficult to locate when visiting) is Domaine de Chevalier.

Although many chateaux in the southern Médoc and Graves have centuries of history, this property dates only from the 18th Century, and viticulture only significantly developed at Domaine de Chevalier during the 19th Century, although the very first vines were planted long before that. As Bordeaux expanded and the Médoc was drained, opening up the gravelly terroirs of the left bank, one entrepreneur looked south instead of north to establish his vineyard. The man who planted vines on gravelly soils in amongst the trees was named Chibaley, and his venture was successful. His estate was not grand it seems, with small houses and outbuildings the most significant structures (although it is marked on the 1763 map of the region drawn up by Pierre de Belleyme) and he produced up to 15 tonneaux (1 tonneau is 900 litres) of wine per annum. Nevertheless, despite this apparent success things did not continue smoothly; by the early 19th Century the land, which now appeared as Chevalier on the maps, fell into disuse, and the pine trees began to reclaim the vineyard.

Several decades passed before the land was to see serious viticulture again, and this came about as the estate was acquired by the Ricard family, successful barrelmakers from Léognan. Arnaud Ricard had purchased Malartic-Lagravière in 1850, and she was then looking to expand the family estate even further. They acquired the Chevalier land in 1865, when it was used mainly for agriculture and raising livestock, and the vines were of little importance. It was Jean Ricard that first extended the small vineyard, but it was his son-in-law Gabriel Beaumartin, who took control after Ricard's death in 1900, that began to build up the reputation of the wine with the help of Marcel Doutreloux as manager. The property remained with the Ricard family until 1983, eventually under the guidance of Claude Ricard who had taken control in 1948, and who saw Domaine de Chevalier produce some of its greatest wines - both red and white - during the mid-20th Century. Domaine de Chevalier then passed, sadly due to disagreements within the Ricard family consequent upon the Napoleonic laws of inheritance, to Olivier Bernard, who at the time was best known as the owner of a distilling company. Although he did not bring great expertise concerning viticulture this was compensated for by Claude Ricard, who stayed on for many years as advisor, and whose children continue to work at the estate today.

The soil at Domaine de Chevalier is gravelly, as would be expected, with a depth of up to a metre in places, also with some dark sand, over a sandstone bedrock. This is nutritionally destitute soil, well drained, and therefore eminently suitable for the vine. Of 80 hectares there are currently 38 hectares planted up (of which 5 hectares are white varieties), the vines having an average age of 25 years, planted at a density of 10000 vines/ha on the usual rootstocks for Bordeaux, 101-14, 3309 and Riparia, and they are trained using the traditional Double Guyot method. The estate produces both red and white wines, as per the 1959 Graves classification. The white varieties are 30% Semillon and 70% Sauvignon Blanc; the red varieties are 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, the balance being 2.5% Cabernet Franc and 2.5% Petit Verdot. There is careful sorting during the harvest, with the white varieties picked by hand during several tries, both white and red go into small baskets, and the red is then sorted again on the table in the winery. Here the vinification is undertaken with advice from oenologist Denis Dubourdieu. The white grapes are pressed and are then fermented in oak barrels after the wine has settled. The reds undergo temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel vats of varying sizes followed by a cool maceration, limited to 30°C to 32°C, for up to three weeks to extract colour and tannin. The press wine may be blended back into the red, depending on the vintage, sometimes in considerable quantity. Both red and white wines see a period of time in oak, typically eighteen months, with 30% new barrels for the white with batonnage to mobilise the lees, 50% new oak for the red. Fining is egg white for the red, bentonite for the white, followed by a light filtration. The grand vin goes under the name of Domaine de Chevalier, whether it be white or red; the former is regarded by many as the greater of the two wines, and has a relatively small production of just 1200 cases. Meanwhile, there are 7000 cases of the red, as well as red and white second wines, 5800 and 800 cases respectively, both called L'Espirit de Chevalier.

During the Bernard era Domaine de Chevalier has either gone downhill to produce light and charmless wines, or has continued to produce classic wines of breed, balance and elegance, depending on which critic you follow. Opinions have differed, noticeably. Having tasted a few vintages I feel the latter more correctly describes the wines; these are structured, classically styled wines which need cellar time and do not necessarily flatter with plump fruit early on in their development. In fact, in very recent vintages they seem all the more superb, and whereas there are many estates that tend to be stronger on either the red or the white wine, at Domaine de Chevalier both can be excellent. Recent vintages such as 2006 show the fabulous appeal that the white can offer, but there have been many other vintages of note, for the red as well. My opinion is that this is undoubtedly a wine to buy with confidence. Unlike some wines I write about, this one has a place in my cellar. (27/10/04, updated 24/8/07)

Contact details:
Address: Domaine de Chevalier, 33850 Léognan
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 64 16 16
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 64 18 18
Internet: www.domainedechevalier.com

Domaine de Chevalier - Tasting Notes

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2007

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: This has an elegant nose with plenty of fine aromatics and bright fruit, but there is a suggestion of depth also. A good substance and a nice grip on the finish, with rather gentle acidity. This is attractive but at this stage it is not a patch on the supremely elegant 2006. From my 2007 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2008)

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: Two samples assessed on different days. The first seemed inexpressive, but the second had more apparent, charcoaly fruit. Fresh, elegant style on the palate, ripe tannins, complete and nicely balanced. Not a heavily stuffed wine, but there is sufficient texture. A good effort here. From my 2007 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2008)

2006

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: A vibrant, open, expressive nose, fresh with great depth. It has complex notes of spice and exotic fruits, with passion fruit, grapefruit and candied notes, all presented in a very broad and pleasing style. Full, with a moderate body, spicy, with a lovely structure. Firm, peppery acidity. Pleasing. Quickly fading finish but with age I suspect this will broaden out. Wonderful. One of the stars of the vintage. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 18-19+/20 (April 2007)

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: An attractive nose, with some spicy, nutty fruit. The palate has a full, creamy style with some ripe, rather grainy tannins. It has moderate acidity. Attractive, although not the fresh and vibrant style I would like, but it has many good points. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 15-16/20 (April 2007)

2005

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: This has a very pure and stylish nose, floral, leafy, creamy and quite direct in character. It remains aromatic and floral on the palate, with very bright fruit character, lifted by a very gentle acetone-pear drop character. Sweetly ripe, but vibrant and well defined, with forceful, vigorous acidity which lefts the wine to another level altogether. Beautiful presence. Clearly the most delicious dry white here, head and shoulders above its peers. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 18.5+/20 (October 2007)

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: Exuberant fruit on the nose here, with a nutty edge. The palate follows on nicely from this unassuming start, with a layer of pure, rather crunchy, blackcurrant and cranberry fruit which is very well framed, very precise and complete. The fruit and texture cover very nicely the firm, tannic backbone and the grip of ripe tannins only becomes apparent at the end. This has lovely potential. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 18+/20 (October 2007)

2004

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: As with last years sample of the 2003 this is quite closed, showing little more than a faint crispness. The palate clearly shows that this is built for the cellar; balanced, elegantly textured, sappy but reserved, vaguely nettly through the midpalate but rounding out with a flourish of flavour on the finish. Potentially very good indeed. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 17.5+/20 (October 2006)

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: A lovely nose here, a mix of fresh fruit and nutty oak. Quite flashy, still some oak showing, but not so buttery any longer, and there is a lovely style hidden beneath it, a fine grip and appropriate texture too. This is delicious, with a fine, well defined presence on the palate. It will make lovely drinking for many. From a tasting of 2004 Bordeaux. 17+/20 (April 2007)

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: This has a dark, floral, gravelly fruit nose, with little notes of sweet blackberries and butter. Full and rounded style on entry, evolving to a gravelly, mineral character through the midpalate. Firm tannins, nicely composed, not at all overdone. Fine, fresh acidity. This has very good potential. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 17+/20 (October 2006)

2003

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2003: This has more interest than the Carbonnieux on the nose, with more obvious minerally fruit. But the palate is soft, unfocussed and flabby. There is some grip to it, but the acidity, and the verve, is lacking. Another to avoid. From my 2003 Bordeaux assessment. 12.5/20 (October 2005)

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 2003: A subtle and yet rather exotic character to the nose here, with a peppery quality. There is finesse here; this has an elegant style on the palate, with just a creamy edge to it. There are firm, rather masculine tannins although quite well knitted into the structure of the wine. Very firm, appealing style which has been really well assembled. Lots of potential here. From my 2003 Bordeaux assessment. 17+/20 (October 2005)

1996

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 1996: Red purple hue, very dense. Mature, earthy perfumed nose. The palate is truly very impressive; packed with sweet, maturing, claretty fruit. Soft and ripe tannins, correct acidity. Great grip in the finish. Classic style. Needs five years cellar time as a minimum. From a Graves tasting. 17.5+/20 (October 2004)

1995

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 1995: Deep red, dense hue. Earthy fruit nose, a touch metallic. Firm, structured palate. Plenty of tannic structure and acidity here. Firm fruit. Very youthful grip and has plenty of potential. Needs five to ten years - possibly more. From a Graves tasting. 17+/20 (October 2004)

1988

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 1988: Showing some maturity here. Good colour, bricking a little at the rim. Mature, gravelly, sweet perfumed fruit on the nose. A touch metallic. Big, full, sweet palate, with piles of fruit and plenty of tannin. Correct acidity. Showing some development but will improve for an impressive five to ten years yet. From a Graves tasting. 17.5+/20 (October 2004)