Home > Producer Profiles > Bordeaux Profiles > Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion

Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion

As is the case with Larrivet-Haut-Brion, this Graves estate is another that is distinct from, and thus should certainly not be confused with, the Delmas properties of Haut-Brion, the illustrious first growth, and the associated vineyards of La Mission Haut-Brion, Laville Haut-Brion and the now defunct La Tour Haut-Brion (which from the 2006 has been blended into the produce of La Mission Haut-Brion. Unlike Larrivet, however, the history of Les Carmes Haut-Brion is intimately intertwined with these properties, as the estate, which sprang into being in the late 16th century, was once part of Haut-Brion itself. For this reason it lies adjacent to the first growth (unlike Larrivet-Haut-Brion which is a little way to the south-west), although today that is as far as the parallels can be drawn.

The owner of Haut-Brion at the time of the creation of Les Carmes was Jean de Pontac, who was reputed to have attained the rather grand age of 101, a notable feat even today, so four centuries ago it must have been remarkable. In his dotage he gave as a gift a portion of his estate to the Carmelites, a Catholic religious order founded in the 12th century. The gift included a water mill, pasture land and a vineyard, and the latter was tended by the nuns of the order for two centuries, and during this time the name morphed from Haut-Brion to Les Carmes Haut-Brion, reflecting the ownership of the property by the religious ascetics. Their tenure was ended, of course, at the time of the Revolution, when the property was confiscated as a bien national and sold off, it being acquired by Léon Colin. His descendents, in the shape of the Chantecaille-Furt family, were to ultimately retain control of the estate for longer than the Carmelites, as the current owners are directly descended from Colin. These are Didier Furt, his wife Caroline and daughter Pénélope. It was the Chantecaille-Furt family that erected, during the 19th century, the attractive and certainly distinctive chateau; not as impressive as some in terms of size, but charmingly composed and surrounded by landscaped gardens designed by Fischer.

The vineyards are surrounded by the bungalows of suburban Bordeaux, and lie almost directly adjacent to those of Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion, with just a few rows of houses interposed between the two. The area planted to vines is very small, a mere 4.7 hectares, with very typical terroir, with Gunzian gravels dominating, with some sand and clay above. The vineyard has been extensively replanted by Didier Furt during his tenure, and the composition is a little unusual as Merlot (50%) and Cabernet Franc (40%) dominate, with Cabernet Sauvignon making up just 10% of the vignoble. The vines have an average age of 35 years and are planted at a density of 10000 vines/ha. There is a conscientious approach to vineyard management, with control of yields using pruning and debudding, and with canopy thinning and green harvesting during the summer. The harvest is manual, and once in the chai, which was refurbished in 1987, the must is macerated for between 15 and 24 days. Fermentation takes place in small, temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks ranging from 40 to 80 hectolitres in size which thus facilitate plot-by-plot vinification, overseen by the Furt family with consultation from Yves Glories. The wines naturally go into oak, spending up to 18 months here, in casks which are 50% new in each vintage. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel. The resulting grands vins, red and white, are bottled after fining with egg white as Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion (together about 1800 cases), and there is a second wine Le Clos des Carmes (a mere 200 cases).

The wines are not short of their admirers and perhaps this, as well as the Bordeaux bubble generally, is responsible for the rise in prices which is particularly noticeable with the most recent vintages of Les Carmes. I unfortunately do not have the tasting experience of older vintages to comment on the appropriateness of these increases, having sampled only very recent vintages. Here I must confess I was not swayed by the 2004 on first assessment, but subsequently I was much more taken with the wine. I may have to admit that my first feelings on this one were wrong, and I relish the thought of further opportunities to taste Les Carmes Haut-Brion, in this and other vintages, in the future. (18/9/07)

Contact details:
Address: 197 avenue Jean Cordier, 33600 Pessac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 93 23 40
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 93 10 71
Internet: www.les-carmes-haut-brion.com

Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion - Tasting Notes

Click to locate stockists.

Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan) 2009: This vintage has a glossy, dark cherry red appearance. In terms of aroma its character is very dark, a touch reticent, but perfumed, with a crystalline edge to it. Here the sweetness, ripeness and depth is accompanied by a sense of purity. A fresh style on the palate, especially considering the dark and broad character on the nose. Wonderful breadth, over a good core of firm tannins. These have a slightly more chewy style, and there is also more concentration and extraction here than in some of its peers, but for Les Carmes I think this is fine. It culminates in a long, tannin-infused finish. Very good potential. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17.5-18.5+/20 (March 2010)

Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: This has some exotic red fruits on the nose, but darker elements too, with notes of spice and richness. Supple fruit on the palate, a fairly firm structure too, but there is substance alongside. It has a fine, aromatic, perfumed, violet-edge to the fruit, and overall seems like an attractive albeit lighter and rather young wine. One of the better efforts. From a tasting of 2007 Pessac-Léognan at two years of age. 16.5+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: There is appealing, dark and concentrated fruit on the nose here, although with a rather hard and stony character. This is countered by lovely substance on the palate, with a gentle and composed nature. It has good depth and a rounded, creamy composition. There is a good grip to it as well. From my 2007 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: I wouldn't normally make any comment on colour at this stage but this surprises me with its already maturing hue. It has dense and dark fruit on the nose, with a macerated quality, and a touch of undergrowth. Rather dry, austere, lots of firm tannin on the palate, although the fruit is quite gentle in comparison. Over-worked, with a huge, grippy finish. Not a success based in this showing. From a tasting of 2006 Pessac-Léognan at two years of age. 15+?/20 (October 2008)

Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: This has a fine nose, showing some ripe fruit and still marked with nutty oak. There is an awful lot to the palate, starting with a big, structured personality, based on a lot of tannin and fleshy extract. There is a somewhat flashy character to it, but there is a lovely flavour profile on the palate and a rounded, rather pure composition. The balance is perhaps on the edge, but it is a young wine and I do not think it has gone too far. This could be excellent with time. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17.5+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: This has a very vibrant colour, is expressive, more open and welcoming than the 2004, nutty and oaky but also pretty and aromatic. Stylish, vigorous, with good direction. Firm tannins, typically structured, quite a classic style, very good potential for the cellar. I think I may have misjudged this wine when I looked at it six months ago. A higher score this time. It needs 5-8 years at least. 16.5+/20 (April 2007)

Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: A good nose here, quite forward compared to some other wines, ripe, gravelly, perfumed, with a sheen of oak. There is a dry, reserved palate showing similar fruit. Rather firm tannins, perhaps a touch over-extracted, overall lacking balance. A disappointment. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 14/20 (October 2006)

Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan) 2003: This has only a moderate depth of colour, and is showing early maturity already. Attractive, gravelly, tobacco fruit. The palate has a nice typicité, with a gentle entry, more obvious tannins on the midpalate. A lovely depth of flavour, laced with tobacco, with some freshness despite the heat of the vintage. Full, slightly meaty, nicely mouthfilling. Finishes well. Good. 15.5+/20 (April 2007)