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Château de Fieuzal

When one considers the lengthy history of many of the vineyards in the Graves region south of the city of Bordeaux, Château de Fieuzal is perhaps a little unusual when placed against its peers. Here a significant number vineyards have been in existence for many centuries, some with ancient ecclesiastical origins, and as a generalisation they predate the now more famous châteaux of the Médoc by many years. This is partly true in the case of Château de Fieuzal, the property having seen the passing of many centuries, and many owners too, including the Rochefoucaulds who held tenure here prior to the Revolution. The vineyard, however, is a much more recent addition, not having been established until the early 19th century, gradually becoming the predominant agricultural activity on an estate which up until that time had been more used to forestry.

Although the vineyard proper dates from the time of Napoleon's reign, it is not until later in the century that pertinent documents begin to record the existence of the estate and its annual production, and details on who the owners were during this transformation are few and far between. In the earlier part of the century it does indeed appear to be in the possession of the Fieuzal family, the obvious source of the name, and they owned not only this estate but also the adjacent Haut-Gardère. They sold both to the Griffon family, who divided the estate, in 1851. One of the Griffon brothers was Consul to Pope Léon XIII in Bordeaux, and he used this connection to his advantage in marketing the wine, which - in the 1893 vintage at least - was reputed to have filled the Vatican's cellars. This was the year, however, that the Griffon family relinquished their hold on the estate, selling out to a gentleman by the name of Abel Ricard, who came from a family that already had considerable interests in the region, including Domaine de Chevalier and Malartic-Lagravière.

Despite Ricard's passion his tenure unfortunately encompassed almost all that could go wrong in a vineyard; as if phylloxera and oidium weren't enough, there was world war and widespread economic depression to deal with also. During his time the estate went into decline, as did so many of the region. It was not until after Abel's death during World War II that his daughter Odette and her husband Eric Bocké took control, and this change in management marked the beginning of Fieuzal's renaissance. Work began after the end of the war, when the couple returned to France from their refuge in Morocco, restoring the rundown house - there has never been a residence here that could really live up to the term château - and replanting the vineyard, predominantly with red varieties but also with a few rows of white. Only a few years later, in 1953, the Graves classification was drawn up, and in 1959 it was ratified; the husband and wife team had obviously succeeded in turning round the estate's fortunes, as it was ranked as a classed growth for its red wine, but not the white which was still at that time produced in minuscule quantities and was thus not submitted for assessment.

In 1973 Odette died, followed three years later by Eric, and the property was sold to Georges Négrevergne; his family ran the estate until selling it on again two decades later, the new owners being Banques Populaires. Négrevergne's son-in-law, Gérard Gribelin, remained at the helm with the backing of the new owners, and he is largely credited with much of the revitalisation of the vineyard. The land was augmented with the acquisition of the aforementioned Haut-Gardère which was incorporated into De Fieuzal, and the cellar was refurbished, with eleven stainless steel vats replacing the geriatric wooden foudres. Despite this investment, a few years later it was sold on once more, although the new owners were again from the world of banking. It was acquired by Lochlann Quinn, best known for his chairmanship of the Allied Irish Banks, although he was also director of a business school and a large electrical goods manufacturing company. He and his wife Brenda took control of the estate in 2001, and they remain in charge today.

There are 48 hectares of vineyards lying around the château, 39 hectares of red vines, 9 hectares of white, all planted on gravelly-sandy soils originating from the Quaternary period, as is typical of the region. The red varieties planted are predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon which accounts for 60%, with 33% Merlot, 4.5% Cabernet Franc and 2.5% Petit Verdot, whereas the white varieties are a rather simpler mix of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc planted in equal proportions. The vines are planted on the usual Bordeaux rootstocks, these being 101.14, Riparia and 3309, and have an average age of 30 years. They are trained using a Double Guyot system, again the norm for the region, and planted at a density of 8300 vines/ha. The vineyards are regularly ploughed with vineyard practices largely along the lines of lutte raisonnée, including some biological techniques for pest control. The fruit, harvested by hand, is sorted successively, with particular attention paid to the whites in this respect, before temperature-controlled fermentation. The wines will macerate for about four weeks before going into oak, typically for between 16 and 24 months, and whether white or red, both wines are treated to 50% new oak every year. There is regular bâtonnage for the white which remains on its lees. Before bottling the wines are fined, usually using egg whites, and the end products comprise the grand vin Château de Fieuzal and the second wine L'Abeille de Fieuzal (total production amounting to approximately 13000 cases of red and 4000 of white per annum).

I have had a predilection for the wines of Pessac-Léognan for some time now, particularly the reds and the haunting scents of tobacco and underbrush that they can display in maturity. De Fieuzal is no exception, and my experience with vintages that are mature and maturing reveal these to be wines of real individuality and character, of quality and charm. Younger vintages have in a number of cases shown the promise that they too may, one day, reveal similar charm. As far as the whites are concerned, as with the reds, these are also occasionally captivating although as is admittedly the case with the red, it is not the very top wine of the commune. But it has very good promise in a number of vintages and I have enjoyed a number of bottles of the 1994. The 2004 and 2006 are both very good, although the 2003 is heavily marked by the vintage. Although I found more that was worthy of compliment on my most recent tasting than at my first, at the UGC tasting in 2005, this and the white wines of the Graves as a whole should be avoided in this vintage. (10/1/03, updated 7/9/07)

Contact details:
Address: Château de Fieuzal, 124 avenue de Mont de Marsan, 33850 Léognan
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 64 77 86
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 64 18 88
Internet: www.fieuzal.com
GPS: 44.713167, -0.607139

Château de Fieuzal - Tasting Notes

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White Wines

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2010: Rather a honeyed nose here, although this is subtle, the fruit fresh and with a rather pithy-citrus character. On the palate the same style, a rather creamy compote of crystalline fruit with lovely freshness, lots of crunchy style to the fruit, and bags of acidity to boot. This is just lovely, stylish, leafy and yet with classic yellow fruits, and above all full of fresh acids. From my Bordeaux 2010 primeurs assessment. 16.5-17.5/20 (April 2011)

Red Wines

Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2010: Cabernet Sauvignon 60%, Merlot 40%. I remember the 2009 Fieuzal as being particularly black - this vintage doesn't seem that far behind. It has a bright crimson rim but is very dense at the core. The fruit quality on the nose is lovely, dark and sweetly concentrated, but also expressive and open. A rich and creamy start on the palate as expected, and this characteristic is maintained throughout the midpalate, where there are structural elements coming in from underneath in terms of charcoaly tannins and also some very welcome acidity. It certainly is an extreme style, but there is a much-needed savoury edge to the fruit which keeps it harmonious and reined in a little. Lots of tannin though - it will need a very long time in the cellar. From my Bordeaux 2010 primeurs assessment. 17-18/20 (April 2011)

Red Wines

Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2009: There are few wines you experience where the colour sticks in your mind, especially when encountered at fleeting tastings, but the 2009 Fieuzal was as black as night when tasted en primeur. Here the colour looks much more in keeping with the other wines. There are some densely concentrated, sweet black fruits on the nose, honeyed by an application of oak. The palate is soft and rich on entry, in keeping with the vintage, before a massive extract comes in through the midpalate, the wine marked by dense, heavy, dark tannins which dominate the finish. This is a wine of extract rather than finesse, but there is still a freshness to it. Fieuzal does seem to have a much more 'forced' style to it these days. There are certainly some good points here though. From a tasting of 2009 Pessac-Léognan at two years of age. 17/20 (October 2011)

Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2009: Another incredibly dark wine, with a creamy-glossy appearance. Intense, sweet and velvety fruit on the nose, with a dark black character, notes of warm tar and flower petals. This just oozes richness and sweetness, but it has a good floral character as well. Nicely poised on entry, although with a very sweet and rich substance. The tannins have a svelte, cottony character, and most surprisingly amongst all the exuberance there is good acidity too. This helps the wine to maintain a sense of vigour, even with its sweet, tannin-loaded finish. This, especially for de Fieuzal, is a prodigious wine. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17.5-18.5+/20 (March 2010)

White Wines

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2008: A rather inexpressive nose here. It is nicely textured on the palate though, with a little suggestion of honeycomb flesh building into a real sense of honeyed fatness in the middle. Some nicely textured pithiness in the middle, giving a nice sense of grip to it, but it lacks the acidity and vigour of a really appealing wine. As such the finish seems rather more flat than I would really like. A shame as I really liked this en primeur. From a tasting of 2008 Pessac-Léognan at two years of age. 15+/20 (October 2010)

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2008: There are little notes of grass and buttercream here. The palate is attractive, polished, with good pithy fruit. The midpalate is quite full and bright, with a peppery zip and good vigour. Nicely structured. There is a little length to it as well. This good be very good indeed. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (April 2009)

Red Wines

Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2008: A less expressive nose with this wine (rather like the white also tasted here), showing just a little well-reined-in fruit with a touch of warmth at the edge. The palate has a rather bold substance but the fruit tries its best to keep up. It is very structured, very spicy, tannic and grippy, with some rather hot and alcohol-steeped black fruits alongside. Very upright and structured but a little on the warm side for my palate. From a tasting of 2008 Pessac-Léognan at two years of age. 15.5+/20 (October 2010)

White Wines

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: This wine is not as expressive as some others on the nose, but what fruit it shows has an attractive, bright, fresh character. It has a rather sweet ripeness, and lots of substance too, with good acids underneath and a nice grip. Good potential here. From my 2007 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2008)

Red Wines

Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: Slightly charcoaly and sooty on the nose, the fruit behind moving somewhere between red and black. There is a slightly sweet suggestion to it, like squashed forest fruits, but it still remains subtle behind the oak. It is smoky too. It has rather a solid and dry palate at the start, There is flesh on the palate but there is also a dusty feel to it, with plenty of grip and not so much softening cover. The finish is peppery and suggests a leaner style of fruit than the nose did. The spice in the finish really dominates. From my tasting of 2007 Pessac-Léognan at four years of age. 15/20 (November 2011)

Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: Dense, withdrawn, polished fruit on the nose, inside a harder shell. There is also a little cashew nut, from the oak. Immediately seems much leaner than expected on the palate though, with a fresh red fruit character, but there is more substance coming through in the middle. Gently composed, light in tannin and substance, with fresh acids. It shows more appeal than it did en primeur. From a tasting of 2007 Pessac-Léognan at two years of age. 15+/20 (October 2009)

Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: There is red fruit on the nose, with a rather sweet and confected palate. It is also a touch rubbery which I think unusual. The palate is soft and unfocused, with a medicinal streak marking the fruit. There is certainly individuality here, over a good texture and sweetness. There is some substance, but there are better wines than this. From my 2007 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 13-14+/20 (April 2008)

White Wines

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: This wine has a more reserved, stony, mineral nose, touched today with the barest hint of sulphur which I suspect will be of no real significance after a little while in bottle. The palate has rock dust and minerals, and a rather fatter style than some of the preceding wines. Rather subdued acidity too, accompanied by notes of watery green fruit, unusually with a kiwi-like character. Good. From a tasting of 2006 Pessac-Léognan at two years of age. 16.5+/20 (October 2008)

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: Bright and vibrant character, grassy fruit, very straight and well defined. Fresh, with good substance, but perhaps not the grip underneath I anticipated from the vigorously aromatic nose, although it shows more firmly through the midpalate. Lots of flavour though, and a gentle acidity. This is good. From a tasting of 2006 White Graves. 16.5-17+/20 (April 2008)

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: 70% SB, 30% Sem. A quite beautiful nose, fresh and vibrant with grapefruit and grass notes, creamy, white pepper and flower petals. Fairly full, quite firm, peppery, structured, a nice style overall. Grippy and firm. Rather lithe. I like this. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 16.5-17.5/20 (April 2007)

Red Wines

Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: Showing an unusual fruit profile at the moment, with slightly sweaty notes alongside a creamy confected sweet fruit reminiscent of a bar of seaside rock more than anything else. Nevertheless it has a pleasing composition, full and plump fruit, ripe tannins nicely covered beneath. Quite firm, with quite correct acidity too. A nice style. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 16-17+/20 (April 2007)

White Wines

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: A mineral nose, with a rich character, lemony and even somewhat reminiscent of lemon curd. Nice, lively style. The palate has an attractive, well defined, rich and creamy presence, with a good mineral streak like the nose. Fleshy, with some green fruit character to cut through the Semillon richness that is also showing a little. It has a better backbone of acidity than some. Overall, this is a pleasing package. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17+/20 (October 2007)

Red Wines

Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: A very unusual nose here, dominated by cooked fruit. An evolving wine, showing some overt undergrowth, forest floor and tobacco characteristics, but all the time with that sweet-stewed element in the background. Good weight on entry, where there are flavour characteristics similar to those on the nose. A soft and gentle structure, with supple edges to the tannins, although with a firmer characteristic at the core. This isn't showing very well today and may not be typical. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at four years of age. 15-16+?/20 (November 2009)

Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: There are some distinctive and rather unusual elements to the nose here, which has a somewhat feral character, laced with the aroma of orange peel. The palate has a soft and rounded texture, with a ripe and slightly plump style. There is quite a lot of extract and substance beneath this, with fine charcoaly tannins, and a good acid backbone. A surprising, rather light and lifted raspberry and orange flavour. These characteristics are likely to change though. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16.5-17+/20 (October 2007)

White Wines

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: Very stylish on the nose, rather complex too, with little notes of caramelised fig alongside the fresh, creamed asparagus and nettle character. Very sappy style on the palate, delightfully fresh, but with a little delicate edge to the structure and a fine balance. An elegant, quite complete wine. Great potential. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 17+/20 (October 2006)

Red Wines

Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: Attractive raspberry and blackberry fruit on the nose, with nuances of burnt oak hiding in the background. A ripe, open, rounded style, perhaps slightly loose knit but I suspect it may come together with time. Fleshy fruit, coating the firm tannic core very well, grippy with correct acidity. Another good wine from this vintage. Real presence and flavour here, through the finish. Very good indeed. From a tasting of 2004 Bordeaux. 16.5/20 (April 2007)

Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: An interesting nose here, showing some obvious, confit cherry fruit blended with some sweet oak. Good style on the palate though, showing more typical gravelly red fruit. Nicely proportioned tannins; this is a firm, solidly composed wine which should be very good. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 16.5+/20 (October 2006)

White Wines

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2003: A full, toasty, creamy, lanolin-laden nose. Creamy and round, with a little grip and structure, but as we might expect low acidity. There is some character though, a spicy, peppery element, and a full, pleasing nature. Some oak tannin adding to the grip on the finish. There is much more to comment on than when tasted at the UGC, but nothing will ever change the inadequacy of acidity and freshness in this vintage. From a Bordeaux tasting with Bibendum. 13.5/20 (April 2007)

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2003: There is a little honeyed oak showing on the nose here. It has better grip. At least this gives the impression of some worthwhile flavour on the palate, but again the acidity and freshness is nowhere to be seen. Very disappointing. Avoid. From my 2003 Bordeaux assessment. 13/20 (October 2005)

Red Wines

Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2003: I poured my first sample at an unoccupied stand, only to find it corked. The second showed slightly exotic nuances to blackberry fruit and a little unresolved, buttery oak. Rather lean and under-powered on entry, and a rather hollow midpalate, with some good primary fruit flavours but otherwise short on character or texture. And very firm tannins too. Overall rather incongruous. From my 2003 Bordeaux assessment. 15.5/20 (October 2005)

White Wines

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 1994: Strangely, although there are none of the tartrate crystals that I saw in my last bottle, there is a really unusual brown, blobby deposit on the underside of the cork. And without a doubt there is, before the wine relaxes and releases any more interesting aromas, an undeniable seam of oxidation coming in here. The hue is a firm lemon-gold and aromatically, alongside this papery-nutty element, there are notes of orange fruit and dried driftwood. In terms of aroma and flavour, it is a very 'brown' wine, showing papery nut, old wooden desks, with tinges of dried toffee and walnut. There is still plenty of acid and structure though, so this adds a frame to these rather evolved, oxygen-influenced characteristics. All in all this is quite attractive, although whereas on one hand I rather enjoy the challenging, savoury-sour aspects of it, on the other it would be easy to right it off as oxidised and over-the-hill. But there are just too many points of interest here for me to do that. From a tasting of 1994 Bordeaux. 16/20 (August 2011)

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 1994: Quite a few tartrate crystals at the bottom of the bottle, but this is not a concern. The nose is delightful and maturing, although interminably difficult to describe as always. It has none of the nuts and mushrooms previously noted, but good notes of limes, lemons and minerals, but this does little to describe the dense aroma. Dry honey, minerals, a lovely palate, very organic and evolved, still well defined though, and fresh with limey acidity, A burgeoning texture, weighty but dry and firm, with considerable grip. Lots of bite on the finish too. Fine definition, better than any of my previous bottles, and a lingering finish, Continues to drink well, I really must try and keep a bottle or two into old age, to see how they develop. 17/20 (April 2008)

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 1994: A fairly rich golden colour. It has a very mature and secondary nose now, with notes of nuts, mushrooms, honey and perhaps just a little volatility that I haven't noted before. Mirroring my previous experiences, there are little notes of lime oil. On the palate it is quite firm, still holding together well, with lots of mature nutty character. There is firm acidity, a full, dry texture and a lot of peppery spice on the finish. This bottle isn't showing so well as some of the others, and certainly seems to be more tired than the last, which was barely a year ago, but it is a minuscule point. It has a lovely style, but as a note of caution there is some heat on the finish. On the basis of this bottle I think this is probably at peak and I would keep to five years rather than eight. From a 1994 Bordeaux tasting. 17/20 (April 2007)

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 1994: I think I have always found this wine difficult to describe, and despite previous assertions I have had a niggling doubt about its potential for future development. This particular bottle has a mid-golden hue, and a complex nose of honey, nutty spices, with a lime leaf character, and a melange of mineral and caramel nuances. With a little time it all settles down into a firm, hazelnut character. Very fresh and upright on the palate, very firmly structured, with pervasive acidity and just a moderate texture to balance it. Lovely hazelnut flavour though, with a biting style, and a flourish of citrus and ripe melon richness on the finish. Decent length. Very good indeed, with not a trace of oxidation or other flaw. Will certainly improve further over the next 5-8 years. 17/20 (April 2006)

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 1994: Decent colour. A good nose, oiled wood and nutty honey, with hints of roasted chestnuts – or am I being too festive? Lovely, slightly oily mouthfeel, firm structure, grippy with good acidity. Has fullness and weight. A little coffee and roasted nut kernel. Good, but should improve further over the next 5-10 years. A Christmas Wine. 16+/20 (December 2004)

Château de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 1994: A lovely pale golden hue. Very appealing on the nose, which has ripe pears, stone fruit and minerals, with a rounded, mealy smoky edge. Delicious weight on the palate, lean and elegant yet mouthfilling, good acidity, delightfully balanced. Citrus fruits with a hint of the tropics. Wonderful concentration on the lingering finish. Plenty of potential here for development in bottle. 17/20 (January 2003)

Red Wines

Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 1990: Very deep colour here with little sign of significant age. Intensely perfumed, minerals and smoke, flower petals and meat. Brilliant, classic style. Full, powerful palate. Sweet edged fruit, ripe tannins giving a firm structure, especially in the finish. Plenty of spice. Delicious wine with potential. Drink over the next ten years. From a Graves tasting. 18+/20 (October 2004)

Red Wines

Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 1985: Deep, dark colour although paling at the rim. Mature fruit, elegant, rich dark and spicy. A bit of green pepper and five spice here. Full, rich, dark and earthy palate. Good firm acidity, a little drying tannin just in the finish. A deep wealth of mature fruit. More of the Oriental spices found on the nose. Lovely. From a Graves tasting. 17/20 (October 2004)