Château Raymond-Lafon, 2017 Update
Château Raymond-Lafon, which sits in the shadow of Château d’Yquem, is unclassified and yet turns out some of the most convincing wines of the Sauternes appellation, certainly on a par with the classed growths. I called in immediately after a visit to Château Climens, and I sat down to a tasting of five recent vintages with proprietor Jean-Pierre Meslier.
Jean-Pierre (pictured) chose to start with two recent vintages still in élevage, 2015 and 2014, both of which showed extremely well, the more recent vintage in a richer style (although not quite up there with the truly great vintages), the slightly older vintage showing a brighter, acid-fresh tension, but still with plenty of substance and botrytis character. The confident and evolving seam of botrytis is a strong feature of the Meslier wines, and they seem never to be short on substance or flavour. Even in a vintage such as 2011, which is certainly in the fresher more acid-rich style, akin to 2007 and 2013, the flavours and botrytis complexity come through.
The 2010 and 2009 vintages are both superb for the appellation, and I revisited them here, side by side. The crème de la crème is the 2009 vintage, close in terms of quality to the fabled 2001 vintage, albeit in a slightly more plush style, without the pinpoint balance that 2001 still exhibits even today. The 2010 has a rather upright character, being perhaps more structured and a little less voluptuous. It is perhaps slightly superior in terms of balance, but it does not have quite the same depth of substance. In truth, however, both wines are remarkable and would make a fine addition to any cellar. (21/10/17)
