Tradition & Innovation: A Famille André Lurton Tasting
Scrape the surface of Bordeaux and on first inspection it might seem that this is a region steeped in tradition and conservatism, traits characterised by grand châteaux, ancient classifications carved into stone, and a style of wine which – if you truly wish to see it at its best – demands a cool cellar and plenty of patience.
Dig a little deeper, however, and it soon becomes clear that this first impression is inaccurate. Bordeaux is a hotbed of research and innovation, trial and experimentation, and this has long been the case. Historical evidence for this comes from the extensive roll call of viticultural and vinification processes and technologies which have been developed or popularised within this region; the use of copper sulphate against mildew, green-harvesting, stainless steel vats and other equipment, temperature-controlled fermentation, the understanding and harnessing of the malolactic fermentation and the development of second wines to ameliorate quality. Bordeaux has had a hand in all of them.
I was reminded of this at a tasting with the inimitable Jacques Lurton (pictured below), who heads up winemaking across a multitude of estates which fall under the Famille André Lurton umbrella. As well as pouring six wines which typified Bordeaux tradition, white and red wines from the Pessac-Léognan appellation, Jacques also drew back the curtain to reveal some of his more experimental wines. It was fascinating to taste this vinous trio, which included a light red, a red sparkling wine, and a blended ‘blouge’, a co-fermentation of red and white grapes.
