Bordeaux 2004 at Four Years: The Médoc Communes
The Médoc communes were well represented at this tasting which afforded a chance to revisit many wines, and also a fabulous opportunity to look at some not assessed before in this vintage, particularly a number of first growths and ‘super-seconds’.
Things started very well in St Estèphe, although as is often the case there were only a small number of wines from this commune present. Amongst the four tasted, however, were both Cos d’Estournel and Montrose, both of which were very impressive although I preferred the latter, albeit by a whisker.
In Pauillac there was an embarrassment of riches, with both Lafite and Mouton showing up, as well both Pichons, although sadly not Pontet-Canet. Some experienced tasters who I spoke to, who were mostly MWs, MW students and other members of the trade, rated Pichon-Lalande particularly highly, up with the first growths. The 2004 vintage from this estate is exceedingly good, although to my palate it did not reach the extra level that we may demand from the first growth estates. All the same, a superb wine, as was Pichon-Baron; I found it impossible to drive a wedge between them as far as scores go, but I was forced to choose just one to add to the cellar I suspect I would opt for Baron over Lalande
