Calling in on Les Carmes, 2016: Biodynamics
The approach to the work in the vines is close to 100% biodynamic, albeit with no certification. Guillaume Pouthier used to work at Chapoutier, a post which filled him with enthusiasm for biodynamics (having met Michel Chapoutier I can understand how anybody would come round to his point of view on most subjects, given enough time in his company). Guillaume doesn’t intend to certify though; he and Pichet regard it as a way of respecting the land and the people who live around it, and protecting the vineyard’s future potential, rather than being a selling point for the wine. In that case I can understand certification might not be so vital, although of course this does leave them open to criticism that they aren’t ‘really’ biodynamic.
Continuing our walk around the estate we came across a small paddock, home to three horses. Biodynamics is just one major new development on the vineyard here, the other being the introduction of horses to work the vines. For the equestrian enthusiasts one is a Percheron draught horse, a breed that originated in the former province of Perche, which once lay between Maine and Normandy, but which was divided up after the Revolution. This is a popular breed for this kind of work; I have seen Percherons in other vineyards. The other two are Ardennaises, which I have not knowingly seen working a vineyard before, although this is a long-established and popular breed which originated, as the name suggests, in the Ardennes region.
The horses are used for all the work on the vineyard; although they weigh 1200 kg their impact on the soils is felt to be less than a tractor, because their steps are irregular and well spaced out. There is compaction, but it is limited and sporadic, and the exact path the horse takes will vary with each pass through the vines. A tractor, meanwhile, will compact the soil all along the row with each pass, following the same ruts in the ground each time. The team at Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion also feel the horses respect the vineyard more, meaning fewer damaged vines.
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