Château Haut-Bailly Retrospective, 2013: Tasting Notes
A tasting such as this engenders an understanding of how an estate has progressed over time, the value and charm enhanced by showing not only the very best vintages, but all those that came between as well. Picking out the great vintages is generally very easy, and more-or-less already done for you; who doesn’t know that 2000, 2005, 2009 and 2010 are the vintages worth knowing, tasting, buying and drinking? What is more important is identifying those vintages without a grand reputation where quality exceeds what was expected. Here, in the case of Château Haut-Bailly, there were two such vintages, both years where quality seems to take a leap upwards, the wines showing more grace, texture and concentration than before. These were 2004 and 2008.
In terms of style, I understand what some say about Château Haut-Bailly in recent vintages; it is a criticism often levied against the property that, as the wines have improved in terms of quality, the style of wine has also changed. What was once precise, poised, gravelly and perfumed, readily identifiable as Pessac-Léognan, is today in its youth rather darker, more reticent in revealing its origins, more substantial and structured, and clearly in need of time in the cellar. All I can do is tell my thoughts on the wines, and that is as follows; although the wines are different to what they once were, I do not think the identity of Château Haut-Bailly has been lost in this development. It has evolved, yes, but not been lost. We have a new style of Haut-Bailly these days. And it is, with Véronique Sanders at the helm, in good hands I think. (28/5/13)
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