Bordeaux 2003 at Ten Years: St Julien & Margaux
Cross the Ruisseau de Juillac, the rather elegant drainage channel that defines where the vineyards of Château Latour end, and where those of Château Léoville Las-Cases begin, and we have entered St Julien. Although all the excitement at the time these wines were released nearly ten years ago seemed to surround St Estèphe, and perhaps Pauillac, there were certainly some cracking wines made here in St Julien. As you might suspect, they came from the usual suspects, including the ever-reliable Léoville trio, led by the recently reborn Château Léoville-Poyferré (in 2003 ‘recently’ was correct I think – although ten years on, we have all by now grown accustomed to seeing high quality wines coming from this estate). As for Margaux….well, this appellation varies from the sublime to the decrepit. But then there’s nothing new there, is there?
St Julien 2003
Having said that there is definite success here, the wines are certainly not at the level demonstrated by Château Latour or Château Cos d’Estournel, nor are they at the level of quality seen here in the 2005, 2009 or 2010 vintages. Nevertheless, they certainly compared well with many other wines of the left bank in this vintage. Château Léoville-Poyferré leads the pack, ever-so-slightly, with a very convincing performance. Following on close behind are Château Léoville-Barton and Château Léoville Las-Cases, showing the value of their terroir in this vintage. Even if it is a little gravelly, it seems.
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