Château Suduiraut: Tasting & Drinking
Recent tastings of the Sauternes grand vin from Château Suduiraut have demonstrated that this is an estate which has been in the ascendant during the last two decades. The supreme character of the 2001 was a strong vintage for Seely, although it has been mirrored – although probably not bettered – by more recent successes in 2009, 2010 and 2011.
Nevertheless it is how a vineyard performs in the weaker vintages that perhaps indicates its true worth. Looking back over the Seely era perhaps 2002 and 2004 are the foremost examples of what can be achieved in less than perfect vintages. Both are very fine indeed, although not of the quality of vintages of higher repute in my opinion, such as the excellent and under-reported triumvirate of great vintages that began with the rich style engendered by 2009, through the balance and depth of 2010 to the fresh, vibrant and yet botrytis-rich character of the wines of 2011. These latter vintages show the heights of what Château Suduiraut, and Sauternes, are capable of; they are great wines, from one of the greatest estates in all Bordeaux.
Looking back to other older vintages, during the first decade of the 21st century 2007, 2005 and 2003 were all excellent vintages; the more recent of the three trades more on acidity and vibrancy, the second is rich and well built, rather like the reds of that same vintage, while the older of the trio is opulent and showy. Although I adored the 2003 vintage in its youth looking back twenty years on I am not at all sure it was set up to age (although encounters with it in maturity have been non-existent, so I will have to reserve judgement). And looking further back, as I have already mentioned in my profile, 1999 and 1997 were also excellent; the older vintage, tasted at just over twenty years, confirmed my early thoughts, and it was ready to drink.
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