Château Climens: Tasting & Drinking
I have to confess that I have a great love for the wines of Sauternes, although I suspect that much is already obvious from the many words already written, on this page and others. And within the Sauternes pantheon I do have a particular soft spot for the wines of Barsac. This commune yields some of the fresher and more racy examples of Sauternes, and although many are delicious few have the grand composition that can be found in the wines of Château Climens. The style of wine is elegant with great vibrancy and direction, all hallmarks of good Barsac, and yet with a superb concentration as well.
The wines of Château Climens also have the potential to develop magnificent style with bottle age, taking on a richer and more opulent character, although in the most desirable vintages they never lose that defining freshness and acidity. In terms of quality the wines are very close to Château d’Yquem; before all the Yquem lovers throw up their arms in disbelief, note that the two wines have very distinctive styles, Château Climens much more ready and opulent but cut with fabulous acidity, whereas Château d’Yquem always seems more tightly wound and exquisitely balanced, so the wines will always be hugely different. But there are similarities too.
Instead, look beyond their distinctive styles, and view this estate in terms of effort, attention to detail and ultimate quality of the finished wines, and it seems clear to me that there is only a very narrow dividing wine between the two. These are great wines, very worthy of purchase and cellaring, and this is something I have unsurprisingly undertaken myself with a number of vintages especially as, even with rising prices, the wines are still priced considerably below those of Château d’Yquem, and considerably below the price that is probably justified were Sauternes to benefit from a much broader appreciation from the 21st-century drinkers of red Bordeaux,.
As is customary I mention a few favourite vintages, working backwards from recent encounters. First up, there is the rather sad matter of recent failed vintages, largely the result of frost. Bérénice was unable to produce a 2017, and although she made a harvest in the hail-afflicted 2020 vintage she decided quality here was also inadequate, and it was all sold off. And 2021 was another failed vintage, after a devastating spring frost (much like 2017).
Look beyond these years, though, and there are some truly great wines here. Disappointments are rare, with only 2012 being an obviously weaker vintage. Other years, such as 2016, 2015, 2014 and 2013 are exemplary, although it is with truly favourable vintages such as 2011, 2010 and 2009 that we really see the quality and character of the vineyard. Quality is strong under the new management too, with good results in 2022 and 2023. And I have had some fine experiences with older vintages; the 1990 has long been spectacularly strong. Whichever vintage you choose I can guarantee one thing; you will be drinking one of the best examples of Barsac there is in that vintage. This is the reason I have enjoyed adding these wines to my cellar, as frequently as I have done.
And now, of course, we have the dry wines too. It is early days for these wines, but they are performing well; I have been particularly impressed with how the first vintages of Asphodèle are developing. (17/8/04, updated 21/6/07, 16/2/12, 3/3/13, 4/9/16, 7/8/21, 21/8/22, 10/9/23)
