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Bordeaux 2001: Pomerol, February 2008
Any inspection of the 2001 Bordeaux is certain - I would think - to focus on Sauternes, as without doubt it was this appellation that truly excelled. Having acknowledged that, the red wines are not ones that should be summarily disregarded. There was a degree of the 'vintage after' effect, as it was perhaps rather unlikely that the wines were ever going to match the quality found with those from the millennial vintage. Obscurity beckoned, rather as it did for 1983, another very good vintage which has at times also been rather lost in the shadows. Some, however, recognised the quality of the wines. Writing at the time, Clive Coates proposed that, putting 2000 to one side, "2001 is the best red wine vintage since 1990". I think there are many who would disagree with this assessment, but like the wines it should perhaps not be totally disregarded. This is certainly a vintage of some merit.
Looking specifically at the Merlot-dominated wines of the right bank, a high opinion of this vintage may indeed be warranted. Some writers at the time held the quality of the harvested Merlots in very high regard. The vineyards escaped the early springtime frost, there was considerably less rain on the right bank appellations up until when it was needed in September, and the earlier ripening Merlot was on the whole fully harvested before the heavy October rains. Those grapes left on the vine, at the properties aiming for greater ripeness, suffered in the damp conditions, quickly developing rot. Nevertheless, what was in by now was in good condition, and some estates also had some Cabernet Franc of supreme quality to work with.
Although the left bank did not have it so good as the right, and the Cabernets on the whole were less favoured than the Merlots, this does not mean the vintage was a failure here. Indeed, I have been happy to add certain wines to the cellar, often at very favourable prices. But it is perhaps on the right bank that the best wines originate. The notes presented below are my most recent chance to take a look at the vintage, taking in nine wines from the Pomerol appellation, tasted in London in early 2008. (6/5/08)
Pomerol 2001: Tasting Notes
Tasted in February 2008. Click
to locate
stockists:
Chateau Beauregard 2001: Good fruit character here, complex spicy plum and brambles. Lots of
interest. Some richness on the palate, lots of fruit and texture, with rather
nice acidity and balance through the midpalate. Nicely rounded and defined,
through to the finish. Very good indeed. 17.5+/20
Chateau Clinet 2001: A lovely character here, aromas of spicy and peppery fruit with a real
brightness to it. A lovely composition on the palate, very complete and well
finished. Soft acidity, soft tannins too. In style it is a little plump and I
think would benefit from more definition. But on the whole, it is good. 17+/20
Clos du Clocher 2001: Oak-tinged fruit here, with a vibrant quality despite the rich, buttery
character that lies beneath. Bright, attractive, brambly style. On the palate a
lovely composition is immediately apparent, a gently textured flesh and a broad,
seductive character. There is plenty of elegant fruit; it isn't quite so rich as
to be truly creamy, but there is certainly a little richness here. Nicely
covered tannins. This is very good wine. 17.5+/20
Chateau La Conseillante 2001: Another very dark wine, with slightly earthy, organic fruit, overlaid
with beautifully pure brambly tones. Slightly buttery notes too, from the oak
which has not yet quite integrated. Seductive, textured and elegant, yet broad
and complete in its composition. Softly balanced acids with a nice tannic
structure. Gentle and poised, and overall very admirable. 17.5+/20
Chateau Gazin 2001: A wonderfully dense colour here, with a pure and intense fruit aroma.
Lovely brambly fruits, perfumed and vibrant, with a fine, dried character. Plums
and spiced fruit cake follow these early impressions. A very admirable although
slightly austere texture and composition, this is a stylish rather than
immediately seductive wine. Fine ripe tannins, and a good dry finish.
Impressive. 18+/20
Chateau Mazeyres 2001: This has a rather woody character on the nose, and in fact isn't really
very expressive otherwise. The palate is lean, and doesn't offer the pleasing
texture that many of the other wines seem to possess. There is little fruit
expression on the palate also, with a considerable layer of tannins. It has a
rather hard and austere finish. It may just be closed down, although that would
not usually affect the texture. It would be worthwhile revisiting this, if and
when I get the chance. 15.5?/20
Chateau Petit Village 2001:
An evocative nose here, plenty of dense and complex Pomerol fruit,
with a little exotic spice. A good, full presence on the palate. Rich fruit, a
supple composition, with a slightly marrowy texture. A bright finish, with
plenty of astringent structure here. But there is good substance too. Good
potential here. 17.5+/20
Chateau Rouget 2001: Vibrantly spiced fruits on the nose here, this is deeply characterful
and seductive. It is quite dense in style, with attractive, caressing although
meaty fruit. There is good substance here, but also good acid. Ripe tannins and
good grip too, this is very well formed. Lovely substance, culminating in a
finish which shows both the ripe tannins and fruit. Lovely. 17.5+/20
Chateau Vieux-Maillet 2001: This is nicely rounded and composed on the nose, with some spicy fruit.
Firmly composed, in fact really rather stony, with plenty of midpalate tannins.
There is some good substance here, underpinned by firm acidity. This has
structure but not a lot of flesh or pleasure. 15+?/20
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