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Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion

One of the many Haut-Brion properties that populate the vineyards of Pessac-Léognan, the more northerly vineyards in the Graves region just to the south of Bordeaux, this particular estate is quite distinct from the first growth Haut-Brion, and the associated vineyards of La Mission Haut-Brion, Laville Haut-Brion and the now defunct La Tour Haut-Brion (incorporated into La Mission from the 2006 vintage), all of which are grouped under the direction of Jean-Philippe Delmas. Larrivet-Haut-Brion is therefore not only administratively but also geographically distinct, being located on a gravel ridge alongside Chateau Haut-Bailly and Chateau La Louvière, whereas the perhaps more illustrious Haut-Brions are further north, encircled by the Bordeaux suburbs. The level of quality and the prices one can expect to pay are also quite different. They are, I hope it is now clear, not to be confused.

The origins of Larrivet-Haut-Brion lie in the estate of the Marquis de Canolle, a nobleman originally of English blood, his ancestors having stayed on in Bordeaux after the end of the Hundred Years’ War. The family owned what would one day be known as Larrivet-Haut-Brion as well as also Belair in St Emilion, and managed to maintain their hold on the former estate (although strangely the latter was seized as a bien national) during the Revolution in the late 18th Century. Under the tenure of this family the property was known as La Rivette, from which the modern name is obviously derived. The addition of brion, plainly a common practice in the region, does not relate to a previous owner as might be suspected, but is widely accepted to be a local term for gravel.

Larrivet-Haut-Brion In the early 19th Century the Haut Brion-Larrivet estate, as it was known, remained in the ownership of the Canolle family, specifically the daughters of the Marquis de Canolle-Lescours, two ladies named De Tafford and De Sulzer. Their estate had been large, the popular authors of the time such as Franck recording a production somewhere between 70 and 100 tonneaux (1 tonneau is 900 litres), and it seems it was well regarded. Records from the era illustrate its decline, however, as portions of the vineyard were sold off, one notable piece passing to the neighbouring Haut-Bailly estate. The result was perhaps almost inevitable; this generation was the last of the Canolle family to hold sway here, and in 1870 the estate was purchased by Ernest Laurent. What he acquired was a 40 hectare vineyard, part of an estate amounting to 125 hectares all told. Sadly the new and subsequent owners, including a ship builder called Thomas Conseil who acquired the property after Laurent, did little to ameliorate the condition of the estate. Nevertheless, it seems he was prepared to fight for what they owned, as demonstrated by their facing down of a legal challenge from the Dillon family, Americans who owned Chateau Haut-Brion. Both Larrivet and Les Carmes Haut-Brion were in the firing line, but in the end both challenges effectively failed. In the case of Larrivet the name was retained, but on the condition that it was reversed, I suppose to make Haut-Brion a less prominent part of the name, although really it has no such effect. So today the estate remains Larrivet-Haut-Brion.

The rot, however, was interminable, and in 1935 the estate was dissolved and much of the vineyard uprooted, encouraged by government compensation for the practice. A 3 hectare core of vines was obtained by a gentleman named Jacques Guillemaud in 1940, who began to revitalise and expand the property. He replanted 12 hectares, and purchased another 4 hectares later on. The vineyard was mostly red, although he also instigated the cultivation of some white varieties. Under his tenure the reputation of the estate began to take off once more, and although today the wines do not have the reputation they perhaps enjoyed during the 18th and 19th Centuries, when they were ranked second only to those of Haut-Brion, there was certainly an improvement. In recent years it has been his grandson François Boutémy who ran the estate, having succeeded his grandfather who died in 1973, although in 1987 financial and administrative control came to the Gervoson family of Société Andros, better known as manufacturers of jam under the Bon Maman brand. Philippe Gervoson and his wife Christine were charged with revitalising the estate, something they have undertaken with consultation from oenologist Michel Rolland, with some success it seems.

The vineyards of Larrivet-Haut-Brion lie on the same ridge of gravel as the aforementioned near neighbours Haut-Bailly and La Louvière. The red vines, which dominate the vineyards, are 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot and are aged around 20 years, the average age remaining low because of active replanting. The vineyard has also expanded considerably since the time of Jacques Guillemaud, particularly with the establishment of a further 25 hectares of vines in two plots, bringing the current total to somewhere in the order of 45 hectares. There is also a small plot of white vines, covering perhaps 5 hectares, these being 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Semillon and 5% Muscadelle. The fruit is harvested by hand, with yields controlled to 45hl/ha. Once delivered to the property they are vinified in a chai which has seen considerably investment since the involvement of the Société Andros. New buildings were constructed to house the stainless steel and epoxy fermentation vessels, as well as the barrel cellar. After maceration the red wines go into oak for up to 18 months, the wood being typically up to 70% new each vintage, a marked increase on the 25% that was the norm under Guillemaud senior. The white wine also goes into oak and is aged on the lees for up to 12 months. The end result is the grand vin, Larrivet-Haut-Brion (typically 10000 cases per annum), both red and white (although four times more likely to be the former than the latter) although classified for neither – at the time of the Graves classification in 1953, which was ratified in 1959, Larrivet-Haut-Brion hardly existed. There is also a second wine which is today marketed as Les Demoiselles de Larrivet-Haut-Brion, also in both red and white.

Today Larrivet-Haut-Brion remains a property which is a shadow of its former self, both in terms of size and in quality. Yes, the wines are said to have improved dramatically since the rescue of the vineyard from extinction by Guillemaud in the mid-20th Century, but they do not challenge the first growth Haut-Brion as they were once reputed to do. They are good wines though, solid and competent, flavoursome and at times rich, and so we should perhaps not judge the estate by its reputation one or two centuries ago. In the 2004 vintage, really my only tasting experience of recent vintages from the estate, the wines are good, with both red and white grand vin showing density and character, and a tangible step up from the second wine in terms of delivered pleasure. There is much potential here still, I think, and I hope the current proprietors continue to exploit and develop it. (4/9/07)

Contact details:
Address: 84 avenue de Cadaujac, 33850 Léognan
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 64 75 51
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 64 53 47

Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion - Tasting Notes

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2007

Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: Dark plums and blackberry fruit aromatics here, with a rather sweet and creamy character. A nicely styled palate, rather delicate, with a nice acidity underneath the substance. In compares quite well with the rest of the appellation, but is not a great success otherwise. From my 2007 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2008)

2005

Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: One of the more unusual wines in the flight - at this stage in its evolution, anyway - is the Larrivet-Haut-Brion. It has a very forthright, perfumed style, with a lot of lemon curd and talc character on the nose, and even more on the palate, which is rather soapy. Fat, blowsy even, with peppery spice through the midpalate. This is extraordinary and tasted blind I would have thought it to be an Alsatian Gewurztraminer rather than a wine from Graves. Having previously seen wacky-tasting wines at the UGC event subsequently come good, I do not think it appropriate to rate this wine in its current state. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. No score. (October 2007)

Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: An appealing nose, very smoky and dense, with rose petals and gravel. Very impressive! A nice texture on entry, with good flavour and plenty of dry fruit. It has a very harmonious and supple character. The tannins are ripe and very well hidden. There is a touch of vanilla to it which will fade. Fruit complexity. There is very good potential here! From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 18+/20 (October 2007)

2004

Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: 50% SB, 50% Sem. Quite perfumed, almost soapy, but creamy, minerally and fresh too. Fuller than Les Demoiselles, more weighty, good vigour, good poise, pithy and flavoursome. A good style. It is attractive, although it doesn't have the finesse of a great wine. Nevertheless, it is good. 16.5/20 (February 2007)

Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: A nice, rich, greengage and green-yellow capsicum style here. This richness is matched by a big, full style on the palate, which shows good structure but plentiful fruit to match, in an exotic creamy, capsicum style, like the nose. Very fresh, with good acidity. Appealing. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 16.5+/20 (October 2006)

Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: A rather more promising colour than the second wine Les Demoiselles, and it has a fresh and gravelly character on the nose, with earthy fruit. More body here, more grip, and a good texture. There are ripe tannins which are nicely knit together, altogether it is quite well defined, finishing well. A good grip. Not showing in the same superb manner as it did in October 2006, but this still has excellent potential. Needs 5-8 years. 16.5+/20 (February 2007)

Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: A rather exotic nose here, showing perfumed fruit, tinged with minerals, presented in an absolutely beautiful style. The palate is very finely composed, fine fruits, with a grippy structure beneath, and precise acidity. This nicely poised wine has a just lovely, supple style. Very impressive. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 18+/20 (October 2006)

Les Demoiselles de Larrivet-Haut-Brion Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: 50% SB, 50% Sem. Some new oak and notes of fennel on the nose, lovely, open and fresh, a touch green, some green capsicum, but a rounded, harmonious character nevertheless. Full, flavoursome, a touch creamy, but green like the nose. Chalky, shellfish crispness, certainly fresh and clean. Uncomplicated. 16/20 (February 2007)

Les Demoiselles de Larrivet-Haut-Brion (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: A moderately deep colour, maturity at the rim already, with a little evolution also apparent, with some tobacco notes among the other mineral elements. Nice, fresh, light, a little compact texture through the midpalate, but otherwise rather soft and open. Nicely balanced though. Ripe, approachable, in fact ready now. 15/20 (February 2007)