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Chateau Malartic-Lagravière
Chateau Malartic-Lagravière, originally Domaine de Lagravière, was purchased by the Malartic family at the end of the 18th Century. It was not until the middle years of the following century that the estate took on the name by which we now it today, when a subsequent owner added the prefix Malartic, in honour of that family's most famous son, Comte Anne-Joseph-Hippolyte Maurès de Malartic. An admiral of the French fleet, Maurès de Malartic fought for France against the British in the battles of Quebec, including the Plains of Abraham in 1759 and Sainte-Foy in 1760. Later in life he took up a position as governor of the Ile de France, today known as Mauritius, a name which originates from a Dutch prince Maurice of Nassau (not from Maurès de Malartic), recognising the fact that the island was first colonised by the Dutch in 1598. In 1792 Maurès de Malartic led a spirited defence of the island against British attack which, although French rule eventually fell in 1810, was sufficiently legendary for a statue to be erected in Port Louis, capital of Mauritius, in 1916. He has also been honoured elsewhere in France, most notably when the town of Malartic was named after him.
His estate in Bordeaux passed from the Maurès de Malartic family to Arnaud
Ricard in 1850, and it was she that was responsible for amending the name. It
remained with her and her progeny, coming to Angèle Ricard in 1901 and
continuing through the generations, landing up with Angèle's granddaughter
Simone, who married the estate manager Jacques Marly. The family had control of
the domaine through to the latter years of the century, before selling to
Laurent-Perrier in 1990, who subsequently passed it on to Belgians Michèle and
Alfred-Alexandre Bonnie in 1997. Séverine Bonnie, the next generation to take
control, tells me that it was a few years later that she and her husband,
Jean-Jacques Bonnie, the heir to the estate, became involved. With new owners
came investment; new vatrooms and cellars designed by Bernard Mazières
were constructed. On the whole, the new regime seems to be enjoying some
success, as evinced by their recent decision to expand locally, with the
acquisition of Chateau Gazin Rocquencourt, a 28 hectare estate with vineyards
predominantly in Léognan.
The soils of Malartic-Lagravière are typical of the region; a high platform
of gravel originating from the Quaternary era. Beneath lies a limestone subsoil,
peppered with ancient shells, fossils of the sea-creatures that once floated
over these soils. There are also a few streaks of clay to be found. The vines,
averaging 25 years of age and planted at 10000 plants/ha, cover an area of 47
hectares, of which just 6 hectares are dedicated to white grapes. The red
varieties include equal proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot at 45%
each, with 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, planted on Riparia, 101.14 and
3309 rootstock and trained in the usual Double Guyot system typical of Bordeaux
vineyards. The white varieties, 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon, are
trained in the same way. Practices in the vineyard are sustainable, caring for
the vines using agriculture raisonnée, with ploughing between the rows and
minimal use of treatments. Harvesting is manual, at a yield of 45 hl/ha. There
is a double sorting on a vibrating table, then destemming, followed by transfer
of the grapes to the refurbished vatroom by gravity feed. Fermentation is
performed on a plot-by-plot basis, utilising twenty stainless steel and ten oak
fermenting vats, all with temperature control. Consultants Michel Rolland and
Athanase Fakorellis provide advice to the Bonnie family. Following fermentation
and blending, the red wine goes into oak, of which 50-70% is new each year, for
up to 22 months. The white wine sees 40-60% new oak for up to 15 months. The
wines see an egg white fining before bottling.
The estate produces both red and white wines (one of only six estates to have both red and white classified wines), as per the 1959 Graves classification; the white Chateau Malartic-Lagravière , which is dominated by Sauvignon, usually accounting for 70-90% of the blend (100% in 1998), has a relatively small production of just 2500 cases. There are typically 16000 cases of the red Chateau Malartic-Lagravière, the blend of which usually slightly favours Cabernet Sauvignon (such as 2005, 2004, 2003, 1998, 1997), although in some vintages Merlot just has the edge (such as 2002, 2001, 2000, 1999). As is the case with a number of estates in Pessac-Léognan, the white may be superior to the red, and it can be difficult to decide which should really be regarded as the grand vin. Whichever is your preference, quality of both has no doubt been improved by the introduction of red and white second wines in 1990, 2000 and 1000 cases respectively, both called Sillage de Martillac. Selection is strict, with just 60% of the harvest going into the grands vins in 1996, compared to 85% under previous regime. There is also a rosé, Le Rosé de Malartic, made from a saignée early on in the vinification process, which is mainly Merlot (65%) with 30% and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc respectively. Sealed under Stelvin, with a production in the order of 3600 cases, it is obviously for early consumption.
There is no doubt that under the direction of the Bonnie family the wines of Malartic-Lagravière have demonstrated improvement, and I have frequently (except perhaps in the 2003 vintage, which was very difficult for the region) been taken by the white wine. But the reds also are showing great potential, and some recent vintages, such as the 2001 and 2004, have certainly been worthwhile. Nevertheless, it is the white wines that really impress, with the 2002, 2004 and 2005 vintages all tasting very good indeed in recent years. They are not yet challenging the top tier of the region, such as Domaine de Chevalier or Pape-Clément, nor have they shown the dramatic leap in quality seen at Smith-Haut-Lafitte, but these are still good wines which are superior to many in the region. (31/5/05, updated 17/5/07)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau Malartic-Lagravière, 39 avenue de Mont de Marsan, 33850 Léognan
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 64 75 08
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 64 53 66
Internet:
www.malartic-lagraviere.com
Chateau Malartic-Lagravière - Tasting Notes
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Chateau Malartic-Lagravière (Pessac-Léognan)
2007: A nice purity and a good richness on the nose
here. A lovely texture, with an attractive silky substance. It has a fine
presence on the palate, a touch creamy, with good grip. Correct acidity. This
has good potential. From my 2007 Bordeaux
primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2008)
Chateau Malartic-Lagravière Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: Good character on the nose here, with grapefruit and
citrus fruit pith laced with minerals, with a creamy background. The palate is
full, minerally and fleshy, and is showing quite a lot of substance. There is a
rather gentle, peppery acid backbone behind it all, although it is not quite at
the level I would like to balance out the flesh of the wine. Good pithy finish
though. Very good. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at
two years of age. 16.5+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau Malartic-Lagravière Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: A second
taste of this wine within the space of a month, this time with dinner at Chateau
Thieuley. It again shows a gorgeous and exuberantly open nose. It is ripe,
rounded, but well composed with a touch of reserve. The palate is grippy, a
little pithy. with not a pile of acidity but with a very fresh, mouthfilling
style. This is very good, with fine potential. 17/20 (December 2006)
Chateau Malartic-Lagravière Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: This has a
more creamy character on the nose, notes of yellow plum and greengage, with a
slightly more refined air. Full, well composed, acidity a touch on the low side
perhaps, but it still has a fine, pithy character and freshness. It has bite and
structure layered beneath a lovely array of flavours which show most through the
finish. Very good. 17/20 (November 2006)
Chateau Malartic-Lagravière (Pessac-Léognan)
2005: There is a slightly confected fruit profile on the nose, with a
sweetly ripe character tinged with roasted herbs. The palate though is firm,
rounded and pure, with a quite seamless style. A gentle tannic backbone becomes
apparent through the midpalate, along with a raft of fruit. Nicely balanced out.
This has fine style and potential. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at
two years of age. 17+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau
Malartic-Lagravière (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: Also tasted at Chateau Thieuley.
There is a wealth of fruit on the nose here, streaked with tobacco, and the
style just screams Graves
typicity. A rather cool and attractive presence on the palate, but a big and
firm character, nicely composed with very well knit although obvious tannins.
Well-rounded, with a clean backbone of acidity. This is very well set up for the
future. It has excellent promise. 18+/20 (December 2006)
Chateau
Malartic-Lagravière Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: A very fresh and open nose,
pungently green and grassy, with notes of capsicum, clearly very dominated by
young Sauvignon Blanc still. The palate certainly has appeal, is full, firm and
has rounded out somewhat. Pithy style, but with a crisp, nettly, fresh acidity
leading up to a good grippy finish. Consistently good. 16.5+/20 (November 2006)
Chateau
Malartic-Lagravière Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: A lovely nose here, fresh and exuberant with crystal
clear fruit; what a refreshing change after last year's effort. Rather
Sauvignon-dominant on the nose, green and grassy, but with an appealing passion
fruit note, melded with some oak. Full yet reserved, structured and pithy, with
fresh, peppery, nettly acidity. Very good potential. From my
2004 Bordeaux
assessment. 16.5+/20 (October 2006)
Chateau
Malartic-Lagravière (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: This has a subtle, reserved nose, rather
closed, but showing a little perfumed, oaky fruit. Nicely composed on the
palate, with soft tannins, a solid yet creamy impact and fresh acidity. This
certainly has potential. Very good. From my
2004 Bordeaux
assessment. 16.5+/20 (October 2006)
Chateau
Malartic-Lagravière Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2003: Rather a nice, lifted nose here, showing some fresh
grapefruit character, although really this is the best of a weak bunch. Some
grip, and a presence in the mouth, but nevertheless deficient in the
all-important acidity. Avoid. From my
2003 Bordeaux
assessment. 13/20 (October 2005)
Chateau
Malartic-Lagravière (Pessac-Léognan) 2003: Youthful, primary fruit and oak-derived
nutty character to the nose. Rounded, with nice tannic structure, although
rather a lean presence of fruit through the midpalate. Clean, and attractive
style, although quite simple; but should develop well for mid-term
drinking. From my
2003 Bordeaux assessment. 15.5/20 (October 2005)
Sillage de Malartic Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2003: SB 80%, S 20%. Barrel
fermented, using 20% new barrels. Fresh, clean nose. Leafy, aromatic.
Fortunately no overpowering barrel ferment character. Good acidity with a very
clean and fresh style, which is impressive in light of the heat of the vintage.
Good structure. A lovely second wine. Drink now. 15/20 (November 2004)
Chateau Malartic-Lagravière Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2002: Lovely nose;
cashew nuts and spice. Good weight and structure, and showing greater
concentration than the 1999. This is still a mere slip; there is some oak that
needs to integrate, but all the signs indicate this should do well in the
cellar. Full, peppery, flavoursome, with style. Needs 2-3 years. Very good
potential. 17+/20 (November 2004)
Sillage de Malartic (Pessac-Léognan) 2002: CS 80%, CF 20%. Very good
nose here, with good depth of fruit. Full, round, good weight. Well defined
blackcurrant fruit. It has concentration. Plump, and a little nutty. Very good
for a second wine. Drink now. 15.5/20 (November 2004)
Chateau Malartic-Lagravière (Pessac-Léognan) 2001: A really stylish
nose here, full of Graves typicité, with some delightful smoke and
tobacco tinged fruit. On the palate, however, it remains rather unevolved, firm,
but with plenty of promise. Appealing crunchy red fruits and a reserved style.
This is very good, but needs five to eight years in the cellar at least. Coming
on nicely. Up a half-point. 17+/20 (November 2006)
Chateau Malartic-Lagravière (Pessac-Léognan) 2001: A lovely colour,
with the cashew nut oak notes of youth. Full, youthful, well structured, weighty
presence. Dark, nutty fruits. Grippy, but well integrated, and with balanced
acidity. Plenty of youthful character here. A less feisty more elegant wine, but
with very good potential. 16.5+/20 (November 2004)
Chateau Malartic-Lagravière Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 1999: Good depth
here. A touch of nut oil with the white fruits. Decent concentration, elegant.
Seamless mouthfeel with a maturing, nutty character. Some length here too. This
is good. 16/20 (November 2004)
Chateau
Malartic-Lagravière (Pessac-Léognan) 1998: What little I managed to coax
from this wine when I last tasted seems to have completely withdrawn into its
shell now. Giving away nothing on the nose. Quite nicely rounded, although with
lots of tannin, but also some good texture. Difficult to judge in its current
state; a more firmly shut down wine would be difficult to imagine. 15.5-16.5?/20
(November 2006)
Chateau Malartic-Lagravière (Pessac-Léognan) 1998: Reticent
nose, with some exotic notes when it opens out. Good fruit, with a good balance
of grippy tannins and firm acidity. There's a tannic flourish on the endpalate.
This has very good potential but has to be cellared. Needs 6-7+ years. 16.5+/20
(November 2004)
Chateau Malartic-Lagravière (Pessac-Léognan) 1989: Moderate colour,
mature. Very mature fruit on the nose, earthy and cedary, with a baked-macerated
character. Also a little toffee. Soft texture on the palate, but backed up by
some good dry tannins. Firm, mature fruit with a sweet edge and correct acidity.
Drinking well now. Very good. From a
Graves tasting. 16.5/20 (October 2004)
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