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Bordeaux 1989

The 1989 vintage is generally regarded as an excellent if not outstanding vintage for Bordeaux, it being one of the triumvirate of successful vintages that this region enjoyed over the years 1988-1990. Bordeaux is a vast and heterogeneous viticultural region, however, and it is therefore important to remember that although a successful vintage for Bordeaux as a whole, some appellations will always fair better than others.

Following a long, hot and dry growing season the harvest began very early, during the last few days of August in fact (mid to late September is much more the norm). There was little of the rain that so often dilutes the grapes, as the pickers pass from vine to vine during the first few weeks of September. The wines produced have been described as high tannin and low acid affairs, many grapes having been picked on the basis of sugar levels and falling acidity, despite the fact that they may have been physiologically unripe. There are higher than average alcohol levels thanks to the supremely ripe grapes. Not for the first time, however, conditions favoured St Julien, Pauillac, Pomerol and other regions, but not Margaux (the same can be said for the outstanding 1982 vintage).

Those growers on the left bank that delayed harvest of Cabernet until fully ripe faired very well also, although some growers were said to have picked too early. A number of chateaux in St Julien, in the northern Médoc, produced impressive wines in this vintage. Margaux saw less widespread success but here two there are some good wines to be found. (23/1/02)

Bordeaux 1989 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in January 2002. Click to locate stockists:

Chateau Beychevelle (St Julien) 1989: This has a classic nose, full and rich, still with plenty of fruit. An elegant structure is evident on the palate, which has fine tannins and well balanced acidity. Impressive amount of fruit keeping this wine going. Absolutely lovely. 18/20

Chateau Branaire-Ducru (St Julien) 1989: A firm nose here, with great fruit, but also classic aromas of cedar and pencil lead. This leads to an equally impressive palate, which again has great balance and structure. A lovely, unobtrusive tannic backbone supports some powerful fruit, with harmonious balanced acidity. This is superb stuff. 18.5/20

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 1989: A great nose here, full of dense, fatty smoke and some inky fruit. The wine is somewhat ungiving on the palate, however, with firm tannins and little fruit or elegance. Good body and fine for drinking, but seems to be lacking in style. Not showing well tonight. This is the second time I've been somewhat under-whelmed by Talbot in the 1989 vintage. 16/20

Chateau Saint-Pierre (St Julien) 1989: There is plenty of dense, rich, mineral fruit on the nose here. The palate carries a beautiful layer of fruit, which is rich and warm, draped over wonderful structure. Fine tannins and great balance are this wines strong points. I feel, however, that it lacks any great style or complexity. There's a tannic twist to the finish. 17/20

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1989: This wine is a touch inky on the nose, and has a streak of TCA contamination. This becomes more apparent on the palate, which although firm and promising on entry, displays a characteristic bitterness through the midpalate. Musty edge to what fruit is there. I'm the only taster that seems concerned about this wine, so I leave it for a while and return later. My impression is unchanged. Clear potential, but marred by cork taint. Not rated.

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1989: Wow! This wine has clear elegance on the nose. There's a delightful presence of mineral, restrained fruit. This impression is unchanged with the palate, which has fantastic stony fruit, with a beautiful structure. Elegant, soft tannins with balanced acidity. Still seems a little primary, and undoubtedly has some further potential yet. This is amazing wine, showing very well tonight. 19+/20

Tasted in May 2000:

Chateau d'Angludet (Margaux) 1989: A good colour. The nose has an elegant bouquet, although there is also a sooty note suggestive of tannins. With time the nose opens out, to develop considerable fragrance. This is a big and aggressive wine when it comes to the palate. Lots of tannin, supporting some rich, blackcurrant fruit. Low acidity. Finishes with a coating of tannin. Needs another three to five years at least. 17+/20

Chateau Lascombes (Margaux) 1989: This wine has a slightly paler colour, but it still has an attractive appearance. Quite a bit of funk on the nose, although this seems to blow off with aeration. More sooty notes here as well, and I wonder if this is going to be a very tannic evening. There is more development with this wine, however, as fragrant aromas and notes of cigar box show themselves. On the palate, elegant and fragrant blackcurrant fruit. A full and richly flavoured midpalate, again fairly tannic but less so than the previous wine. A full bodied and smoothly textured mouthful, leading to more cigar box on the finish. Drinking very well now if decanted. 17/20

Chateau Labégorce-Zédé (Margaux) 1989: Lovely colour. A rose-petal and tobacco leaf nose. This wine also has good balance, although there are more prominent tannins. Well-built, fruit laden palate. Low acidity. Finishes well, but short. Great for drinking now, but doesn't have the substance of the other wines. 17/20

Chateau Palmer (Margaux) 1989: We have clearly taken a step up in quality here. A lovely colour. A wonderful, complex and fragrant nose, with hints of fresh coffee grounds. The forepalate is rich, round and full, and although this sensation persists the midpalate is dominated by the tannins which give this wine such structure. Lots of fat, ripe fruit, yet quite elegant and perfumed with it. The tannins persist after the finish. A great wine. Needs five years at least. 18.5+/20

Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 1989: This wine has the deepest colour by far. The nose seems rich, austere and complex. This is a big and rich wine. A fruit-packed palate, with a massive structure. There are tannins everywhere, matched by good acidity. This is a wine built for the long haul, and still very much on the way up. This needs five to ten years at least. 17.5+/20

Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux (Margaux) 1989: A good colour here. Another fruit laden wine, much more evident on the nose here. A touch of caramel oak (just a touch), some good ground coffee notes and a hint of sooty tannins. Another big wine on the palate. Very tannic, rich, with loads of fruit. More fresh coffee, some fragrance developing, leading into a big, tannic finish. A good length. Overall a serious wine. Needs another five years. 17.5+/20

Chateau La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 1989: Another well coloured wine. On the nose, big creamy toffee and vanilla aromas give the identity away. More big tannins on the forepalate with this wine, with ripe fruits and creamy vanilla. A fragrant edge. Tannic. Good fruit through the midpalate, persisting on the finish. Probably ready now with decanting. The presence of still perceptible oak is typical of La Lagune. 17/20

Chateau Cantemerle (Haut-Médoc) 1989: This wine and the next vie for position of most richly coloured wine of the flight. A perfumed nose, with cigar box and freshly rolled tobacco leaves. Another elegant palate, with a good balance, although with plentiful summer berry fruits. Full bodied, maintaining a smooth, rounded texture through the palate. Finishes well, and has good length. Tannins much more integrated than the previous wines. Ready for drinking now. 17/20