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Château Tauzinat L’Hermitage 2019

While I will continue pulling older Bordeaux wines from the cellar for my Weekend Wine slot, both first-timers like the 1994 Léoville-Las-Cases a few weeks ago, and wines I have chosen to revisit such as the 1996 Haut-Bailly and 1989 Chasse-Spleen, I guess to be equitable I must also push some younger wines into the spotlight. To my mind wines such as the 2014 du Retout and 2016 d’Agassac – in each case, close to or less than ten years old – both count, but if you are looking for something younger yet ready to drink then this week’s choice certainly fits the bill.

St Emilion is by far the largest of the more prestigious Bordeaux appellations, stretching from the gravels that run into Pomerol in the west to the cold hard limestone of Castillon in the east, from the sandy soils of the valley of the Dordogne to the south, and over the astéries limestones and clays of the plateau and its slopes to the north. While it is home to many of the region’s most coveted names – Ausone, Cheval Blanc, Pavie and Figeac to name just four of the 600-plus châteaux found here – this broad extent means it provides a rich hunting ground for those seeking out wines of value and earlier drinkability as well as wines which demand decades in the cellar.

Château Tauzinat L’Hermitage is in the former category. Today this little-known property is in the hands of a branch of the Moueix family, a vinous outpost in St Emilion which plays second fiddle to their lead property in Pomerol, Château Taillefer. Despite its rather low-key profile it has a storied history which can be traced back to the 17th century when it belonged to the de Carles family, a name also associated with Figeac and Beauséjour. From these noble proprietors it passed to the Cazebonne clan, then the Boisard family who also owned Château Fonplégade, before Antoine Moueix purchased it in 1953.

Château Tauzinat L'Hermitage 2019

Antoine Moueix bought the vineyards, but no château; there was once an attractive property and cellars here (as pictured on the label) but none stands today, and presumably it was a casualty of the early-20th century decline in Bordeaux’s fortunes. The vineyards were in two distinct parcels both situated on the eastern plateau, and they have plenty of well-known neighbours including Fombrauge, Cantin, Rocheyron, Croix de Labrie, Laroque, de Ferrand and the like. Until recently the property was under the direction of Catherine Moueix, Bernard Moueix’s widow, but today the estate is managed by their daughter Claire Moueix, and Claire’s husband Cyril Basteau. They began to take over the running of this property, as well as Taillefer, in 2013.

The blend is typically strong on Merlot, reflecting the vineyard; of the 9 hectares 85% is planted to this variety, with 15% Cabernet Franc, all rooted into red clay which ranges in depth from 1 to 4 metres, over a bedrock of Calcaire à Astéries. The fruit is brought down to Taillefer where it is sorted and vinified in cuves, and the élevage tends to combine new and used barrels for a modest 12 months.

I have tasted and drunk a few bottles from both Tauzinat L’Hermitage and Taillefer over the past couple of decades, and came to recognise that these are wines which do not necessarily respond well to being left to slumber in the cellar for many years, hence my willingness to pull the cork on this one at a little more than five years. In the glass the 2019 Château Tauzinat L’Hermitage displays a bright hue with a raspberry rim. The nose has an appealing primary fruit character led by blackcurrant, blackberry and cranberry, laced with notes of tar, white pepper, violets and thyme. The palate feels textured and confident, finely grained with tightly knit tannins with peppery edges, and threaded with coffee bean and tar alongside the fruit. This is in a good place right now, and while it has the potential to evolve, open and improve for a couple years, this is definitely into its drinking window. Drink now or over the next two to four years. The alcohol on the label is 14.5%. 91/100 (24/2/25)

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