Château Meyney: Tasting & Drinking
Over the years the wines of Château Meyney have given me (and many others) much pleasure, with vintages such as the aforementioned 1989 firmly rooted in many a tasting memory. Following this vintage, however, Meyney has been on the receiving end of a certain amount of criticism for not matching these earlier successes. The wines were, for many years, at best attractive, full and flavoursome, wise purchases if the price was right perhaps, but rarely was there any true excitement here. It would have been unfair to say that Château Meyney was a failing estate, but it was one that perhaps could have done better.
While considering that statement, we must also acknowledge that – despite its apparently envious location – the terroir here might not be entirely favourable. Nevertheless, we knew what can be achieved here, and under the ownership of Crédit Agricole Grands Crus with the direction first of Thierry Budin and then Anne Le Naour, with advice from Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, the quality here has undeniably climbed, so that very recent vintages would place this estate among the upper echelons of the St Estèphe appellation. The most recent vintages which would seem to confirm this character are 2019, 2018 and perhaps (lagging behind slightly) 2014. Having said that, the frosted vintage, 2017, is also pretty good, as is 2012 (perhaps surprisingly, this being a better right-bank rather than left-bank vintage) and 2005 (no surprises there).
Also coming out smelling of roses (perhaps not literally) are the 2022 and 2020 vintages, both very smart, and the 2023 seems pretty decent, while 2021 was an admirable result, taken in the context of this vintage in which much of the Bordeaux region saw significant frost damage.
Of note, as I hinted in the closing words of my account of this estate’s history, today the estate has regained some of its giant-killer, insider’s wine reputation. Tasted blind against the likes of Château Montrose and Château Phélan-Ségur the wines perform well, not just against the latter but against the former too. These days, Château Meyney is once more a wine to buy with confidence. (15/5/07, updated 14/3/13, 18/1/14, 11/11/20, 22/12/25)
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