Château Capbern
Nestled in the tiny village of Saint-Estèphe is what appears to be, when viewed from the square upon which it sits, a very modest church. Built on the orders of Abbé Marc-Antoine Lalanne, who was made curate for this parish in 1751, construction began on the site of a pre-existing 11th-century church in 1764. Although its exterior has a rather unassuming appearance, the interior is lavishly decorated in the Baroque style, a fact that was no doubt relevant to the church having been classed a historic monument in 1995. To my eye the building itself has the typical appearance of a Médoc village church, being rather solid and functional in character, seemingly taller than its narrow frame deserves, and with that unique grey-yellow hue that the local limestone takes on with age. Nevertheless, whenever I approach it I find my eye drawn inevitably towards it, and in particular its tower.
In keeping with the overall design of the church its tower is square and rather stocky, but this effect is softened somewhat by the presence of a small dome atop its roof. Even more notable is the large cupola which sits above that, itself capped with a small dome and decorative finial, and these distinctive features make this a very attractive spire. It also means it is entirely unmistakable, being unlike any other church spire along the length and breadth of the Médoc. It therefore serves as a very good landmark for the village when approaching from the north, from the direction of St-Seurin-de-Cadourne (it is difficult to see from the south, as we are on the northern limits of Saint-Estèphe’s gravel mound here).
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