Château Angélus: Renaissance
That some described Château Angélus as “moribund” perhaps also spurred on Hubert de Boüard de Laforest. He began in the chai with the introduction of new equipment, including new temperature-regulated stainless steel vessels to be used instead of the older concrete vats, and he acquired new barrels for the subsequent maturation of the wines. Following Hubert taking full control in 1985, the estate saw the construction of climate-controlled cellars and a new tasting room. And perhaps more notably, some of his experiences in Burgundy were incorporated into the winemaking at Château Angélus; these techniques include moving the wine from vat into barrel immediately after the alcoholic fermentation for the subsequent malolactic fermentation, and also ageing on the lees, commonplace in white winemaking, but not the norm when it comes to the élevage of red wines. These changes may sound relatively minor to those familiar with modern red Bordeaux winemaking, but when one considers that Hubert de Boüard’s father never utilised barrel maturation at all, the wine going direct from concrete tank into bottle, this was a major shift in direction (and a huge financial investment) for Hubert and Château Angélus.
Although a qualified oenologist in his own right, having studied under Émile Peynaud during his time at Bordeaux, Hubert looked for outside advice and consultation on his work at Château Angélus. He turned to Michel Rolland, another onetime student of Peynaud, who began consulting here. The two are apparently now friends, perhaps not surprising considering their very similar oenological education, and it is perhaps notable that Angélus was not one of the estates to be given the heave-ho when Rolland reduced his workload in early 2007, when he dropped numerous consultancies including Château Kirwan, Château Malescot St-Exupéry, Château de Camensac, Château Fieuzal and others.
Nevertheless, I am sure Rolland’s involvement here has, in recent years, been more about Hubert obtaining another point of view rather than seeking more specific advice; Hubert de Boüard de Laforest consults widely himself, mostly on the right bank, but with some notable left bank clients including at one time Château Pichon-Lalande and Château Sérilhan, although both appointments have since come to an end. He also consults beyond Bordeaux; during my tastings for the 2019 primeurs which, because of Covid-19 travel restrictions, I conducted at home rather than in the region, I agreed to take samples from Hubert, and alongside the many bottles of locally produced wine there were samples from Provence, Tuscany and Lebanon.
