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Château Phélan-Ségur

St Estèphe is a curious commune; although devoid of first growth estates it is certainly blessed by two exemplary deuxième crus, Montrose and Cos d'Estournel, and a long-term favourite for many, the troisième cru Calon-Ségur, the communes Palmer-equivalent, perhaps. Beyond that the classed growth estates are rather thin on the ground; there is just Lafon-Rochet, which has never quite acquired the fame of its Tesseron-owned sibling Pontet-Canet, and the still under-performing Cos Labory. Happily, though, beyond these lower rungs of the 1855 classification there are a number of estates - those that we would once have blithely referred to as cru bourgeois before that classification imploded - which offer not only value, but also on occasion classed growth quality. Château Phélan-Ségur is one such estate.

Bernard Phelan

To find the origins of the Phélan-Ségur estate, we must look back to the early years of the 19th century, when two St Estèphe estates were brought together, purchased by an Irish immigrant named Bernard Phelan. Bernard had travelled from his native Ireland to settle in Bordeaux where he worked as a wine broker, a profession which brought him into contact with many of the local winemaking families. It also brought romance, as he eventually married Marie-Elisabeth Guestier, a daughter of the famed négociant Daniel Guestier (as in Barton & Guestier).

With the backing of his well-heeled and no doubt well-connected father-in-law Bernard acquired the Clos de Garamey in 1805, a small estate but nevertheless a good start. More impressive was the Ségur de Cabanac, once part of the estate of Nicolas-Alexandre de Ségur, otherwise known as the Prince of Vines, who owned one or two other estates that might be familiar, including Brane-Mouton, Lafite (both destined to come to the Rothschild family) and Latour, to name just three. Bernard added this second property to his portfolio in 1810 and with the construction of a most imposing residence, one which puts many classed growth properties to shame. The château, pictured above, has such an illustrious and noble feel to it I am sure it would grace any second growth estate, no matter how grand. I can imagine it being uprooted and transplanted onto the Gruaud-Larose estate, replacing the château there, and nobody would question its authenticity.

Unusually, however, the château does differ in one distinctive feature. The construction also included an impressive chai and cellars, which are comfortably out of site when viewing the building from the bottom of the slope, as above, but an aerial view reveals that these other buildings back directly onto the château. Open the back door within any of the rooms and you suddenly find yourself not in an elegantly dressed drawing room, or a dining room bedecked with chandeliers and Queen Anne furniture, but in a tiled hall lined from one end to the other with several dozen stainless steel vats, or a heated barrel cellar full of the latest vintage being encouraged through the malolactic fermentation. I suppose it saves the workers from going outside when running from office to cellars; and if the downpour I experienced when I visited Phélan-Ségur is anything to go by, that might be a very valuable perk!

Our knowledge of Bernard Phelan is otherwise sparse, but what we do know is that when he died in 1841 he bequeathed his property, admittedly at this time known as the Château Ségur de Garamey, to his son Frank Phélan (at some point Phelan became Phélan, and as Frank was more French than Irish it was perhaps here). Frank did much to develop the property, and was also elected mayor of St Estèphe, a post he held for 30 years; today his name lives on in the second wine.

The Gardinier Family

In 1924 the estate was sold to the Delon family, today best known for their tenure of Léoville-Las-Cases, Potensac and Nenin, but they also managed Phélan-Ségur during much of the 20th century. They relinquished ownership in 1985, when the property was purchased by Xavier Gardinier, a businessman whose wealth came from his fertiliser business in northwest France. Xavier was a wine-mad gastronome, and he had already taken control of Champagne houses Pommery and Lanson, both sold to finance the purchase of Phélan-Ségur. Gardinier's intention was to raise quality at Phélan-Ségur; despite the formidable reputation of the Delon family today, some less than exemplary wines had been made near the end of their tenure. Gardinier made a brave decision and either recalled, or refused to sell, the 1983, 1984 and 1985 vintages, a move no doubt questioned by his financiers, but if you want to raise heads in Bordeaux this is a sure-fire way of doing it. Although the subsequent lawsuit in which Gardinier alleged a pesticide provided by the Chevron Chemical Company previously used on the estate had contaminated the wines, making them foul and undrinkable, suggests he may not have had much choice.

Thereafter Gardinier started from scratch, and in subsequent vintages quality has risen and risen. The estate is now run by Xavier's sons Thierry, Stephane and Laurent. Thierry is the most prominent on the wine side (the family also have a luxury hotel business), as not only does he reside at the property, he has also been president of the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois du Médoc. Thierry continued the thirst for publicity once exhibited by his father Xavier; he was one of the few proprietors to avoid raising prices in the weak 1997 vintage, when others were jumping on the high-price-poor-wine bandwagon. In 1998, however, he had to opt out of the en primeur market; whilst others were forced to lower their prices, Gardinier wanted a price rise in line with increased quality. He subsequently sold his wine - with ease - two years later. In 2003 the newly revised Cru Bourgeois classification saw Phélan-Ségur ranked as an exceptionnel property; following the annulment of this ill-fated classification in 2007, however, this ranking is no longer valid for any of the classified properties.

The Phélan-Ségur Vineyards and Wines

The Phélan-Ségur estate is a extensive one lying very close to the Gironde towards the north of the St Estèphe appellation. Much of the estate is not currently planted with vines. This includes the grassed slope in front of the château in the picture above, which is where the marquee is erected during Vinexpo and other events. As managing director Véronique Dausse says, "we like to party", and this takes priority over the small gain that would be achieved by planting this slope with vines.

The most recent major change in the vineyards was the sale, in 2010, of 22 hectares of vines to the Bouygues brothers of Château Montrose. The plot sold was the Fonpetite lieu-dit, and was originally a part of the Montrose estate. The sale netted Phélan-proprietor Thierry Gardinier a cool €900,000 per hectare, a new record for land valuation within the St Estèphe commune. The sale reduced the Phelan-Ségur vineyard from 90 hectares to 70 hectares. These 70 hectares are spread over four locations, with one-quarter planted next to the château and chai, the remaining three more distant. The terroir underfoot is an alluvial gravel mixed with a sandy clay, over a deeper bedrock of chalk. The vines are 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot, and current replanting work is focusing on increasing the proportion of the former over the latter, although work in 2011 did include one small plot replanted to Merlot. There was previously an area of Cabernet Franc but this seems to have now disappeared, either pulled up or sold. Likewise there is no more Petit Verdot, although it may reappear in the future according to Véronique Dausse.

The planting density is about 8500 vines per hectare and an average age of approximately 30 years. The yields are controlled with pruning and bud removal, with some leaf-thinning in July to improve ripening and aeration, and some green harvesting as required. The moment of harvest is based on tasting and technical analysis, and once underway the pickers transport the fruit in small open trays, moved around on wheelbarrows and small trailers to avoid crushing.

Once in the winery the fruit receives a high-tech treatment, with table-sorting, destemming, optical sorting, pressing and fermentation on a plot-by-plot basis in thermo-regulated stainless steel vats; these were replaced in 2011, reducing their capacity from 210 hectolitres down to 115 hectolitres, thereby allowing more precise plot-by-plot vinification. There is also consultation from Michel Rolland. Nothing unusual there you might say, and rightly so, but Gardinier is notable for being one of the few Bordeaux proprietors to admit to using reverse osmosis, to which both the 1998 and 1999 vintages (and others since I believe) were subjected. Subsequently the wines undergo malolactic in a warmed room and then élevage, all undertaken in oak barrels, 50% new, sourced from five coopers, the principal source being Taransaud. Experiments with oak from Eastern Europe haven't yet led Gardinier's team to look beyond France for their barrels. It is only just prior to bottling that the assemblage is made.

The grand vin is Château Phélan-Ségur (20000 cases per annum) which is typically 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot and sees 14-18 months in barrel. The second wine is Frank Phélan (12000 cases), introduced in 1986, which sees out 12 months in oak. In addition there are a handful of the wines which deserve at least a nod, the first of which is La Croix Bonis, a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated cuvée which sees 12 months in oak; this is, as far as I can tell, a third wine after Frank Phélan. There is a rosé, Le Rosé de Phélan-Ségur, typically 50% Cabernet Franc with equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, as well as a super-cuvée Fee aux Roses. Beginning with the 2007 vintage (not a great year to start such an ambitious project), this is two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon and one-third Merlot sourced from 4 hectares of the estate's best vines, fermented en barrique, under the direction of Michel Rolland.

Phélan-Ségur: Tasting & Drinking

Although the Fee aux Roses cuvée has eluded me, my tasting experience does encompass a number of recent vintages of Château Phélan-Ségur proper, and in all honesty none have really disappointed. There are even some moderately exciting wines among the crowd, the 2000 had holds much promise but unfortunately was rather closed down when I last tasted it, and so certain comment is perhaps rather difficult. In contrast, 2003 was open, evocative and an excellent example of the vintage. Other vintages certainly have merit, and the 1998 is a good effort from what is a lesser vintage specifically for the left bank, and compares favourably with one or two other wines from that year which I have tasted. Helped by favourable growing seasons, the 2010 and 2009 have been some of the best wines from this estate that I have ever tasted, and each is quite typical of the vintage, the 2009 quite voluptuous, the 2010 more restrained and 'classic', more akin to the 2005, which is also excellent. In fact, being more of a known quantity at present, it is this latter vintage I would opt for above all others if looking for a wine to cellar.

Phélan-Ségur is clearly an estate to watch in St Estèphe; the wines have long been favourites of mine, but with concerted management from the Gardiniers and Véronique Dausse, and new investment apparent on my most recent visit, there is the exciting promise of even higher quality here I think. I am looking forward to my next taste of this undersung St Estèphe star. (10/3/05, updated 10/1/07, 4/1/12)

Contact details:
Address: Château Phélan-Ségur, 33180 St-Estèphe
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 59 30 09
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 59 30 04
Internet: www.phelansegur.com
GPS: 45.261627, -0.768356

Château Phélan-Ségur - Tasting Notes

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Merlot barrel sample, 2011: Hardly finished fermenting, lightly yeasty, certainly perfumed though. A firm structure, alcohol in check, with yeasty-peachy fruit flavours more related to fermentation than any aspect of the wine. Interesting, clean, reasonably deep in terms of texture and character, but impossible to make any valid judgement at this stage. From a tasting of Recent Vintages at Phélan-Ségur. (October 2011)

Cabernet Sauvignon barrel, 2011: Really powerful kirsch aromas here, all cherry liqueur and peach, this latter element a yeasty freshly-fermented character reflecting this sample's youth. There is a lovely, supple style to it on the palate. Again, very interesting, and together the two samples promise an interesting primeurs week. From a tasting of Recent Vintages at Phélan-Ségur. (October 2011) 

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2010: The wine at Phélan-Ségur is blended after the élevage, so this is a proposed assemblage which will not be brought together until sometimes between February and April 2012. The aromatics are dense and rich in liquorice-tinged fruit. There is a lovely polish to it. On the palate there is a beautiful texture, rich, almost creamy, not up there with 2009 in terms of voluptuousness but still with a superb texture and integration, backed up by beautifully ripe tannins. This exceeds my expectations, combining bright but dark-black fruits with a fine and savoury length. A really well made wine here. From a tasting of Recent Vintages at Phélan-Ségur. 17/20 (October 2011)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2010: The blend here is 41% Cabernet Sauvignon and 59% Merlot, and it will see 50% new oak. This barrel sample has a surprisingly bright and open nose, dark and sooty but still showing some very lifted fruits alongside these darker aromas. The palate has a beautifully fresh tone to it, supple and yet crunchy, with a crystalline edge to the fruit character even though the palate is very soft. It has slightly velvety tannins, a firm backbone of acidity as the bright nose suggested, and a good substance at the end too. Rather a lighter and lifted style than some, but still showing certain quality. From my Bordeaux 2010 primeurs assessment. 16-17/20 (April 2011)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2009: This wine has a glossy and dense appearance compared to some of the younger vintages. The fruit is attractive, rounded and plump on the nose, clearly very confident, with a fresh character, tinged with elements of red berries. The palate is just beautiful, so supple and polished, yet with a fine although deeply-buried grip and acid backbone. Yet despite this hidden structure it remains lifted and fresh, with bright fruit character. This is a super effort from this estate. From a tasting of Recent Vintages at Phélan-Ségur. 17/20 (October 2011)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2009: Brighter fruit definition here when tasted alongside the Ormes de Pez. A slightly more lifted, redder style of fruit, although alongside we also have a rich, harmonious, honeyed element of oak, albeit with a rather toasty edge. On the palate there is a very finely balanced grip and acidic backbone, giving the wine good balance behind the supple, creamy layer of fruit that just covers it nicely. A lovely savoury edge to it all on the palate, with spice and a meaty depth, before a lighter, softer finish. Long. Another great effort. From a tasting of 2009 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17.5/20 (October 2011)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2009: A very dark hue, with a nose of macerated black cherry. The palate possesses a rather dry shell of fruit, supple and fairly reserved, and the tannins here seem quite well composed. There is nice acidity, and a touch of vigour to it. Only moderate concentration here, but as a whole it is sensibly done, and therefore admirable. Very good effort from another over-performing estate. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 16-17+/20 (March 2010)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2008: There is dark and liquorice-tinged fruit here, somewhat akin to that found on the nose of the 2010. The palate is supple and well composed, and it slowly builds into the midpalate showing structure, and then exits leaving a darker, structured finish. This is more textured, supple and integrated than knowledge of the vintage might suggest was likely. It has some really good potential as all the structure is all there. It is not a blockbuster vintage buy any means, but this is certainly worth consideration. From a tasting of Recent Vintages at Phélan-Ségur. 15.5/20 (October 2011)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2008: Still a lot of winemaking evident on the nose here, aromas of coffee and smoke laid over some well-hidden fruit. Soft and supple on entry, nicely balanced, with some structure showing very nicely behind the fruit and middling texture. Still very oak-dominated in terms of flavour, with a very soft finish which fades quickly. Likely to make attractive drinking but I think there are better vintages of Phélan-Ségur out there. From a tasting of 2008 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15+/20 (October 2010)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2008: A big, feral, meaty style here, not showing much freshness. A big and bold palate, textured and oily, overall rather foursquare. There is good fruit character though, although they have a rather sweet, cola-tinged edge. Certainly an interesting mouthful! From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2009)

Frank Phélan (St Estèphe) 2008: The second wine of Phélan-Ségur. A Merlot-dominated assemblage, from dedicated plots, generally younger vines. There are some rather light red fruits on the nose here. It seems rather lean and clean, fresh but with low impact. Certainly light, with some vibrant acids on the palate which dominate. There is rather more structure in the finish but always with that core of firm acidity which doesn't bring a great sense of harmony to the wine overall. From a tasting of Recent Vintages at Phélan-Ségur. 14/20 (October 2011)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2007: Light, evolved, leafy, sous-bois if you will, this is a vintage which seems to be marching on very confidently. The fruit straddles the red-black spectrum though which I find mildly surprising. There is also more density to it than first impressions suggest. The palate is soft, plumply texture and accessible. The tannins give some backbone but there are some really quite firm acids here in keeping with the character of the vintage. Nevertheless, like many wines of this vintage recently tasted, more attractive than expected, but one for acid lovers. A short finish in terms of flavour, but there are still some youthful tannins here. But almost ready. From a tasting of Recent Vintages at Phélan-Ségur. 14.5/20 (October 2011)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2007: Attractive fruit on the nose of this wine, showing a style nicely typical of the appellation, with gravelly but accessible fruit. Moderate weight on the palate, not particularly generous admittedly, and like other wines a touch hard and lean. It has a more appropriate composition though. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 14.5+/20 (October 2009)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2006: There is quite a firm and reticent nose here, only reluctantly opening up, although it makes only a limited connection in terms of aroma, quite dense, black and spicy. It seems firm on the palate, the tannins bringing a rather hard backbone to the wine, and there are some wood elements too; these and that tannic power may be related of course. This vintage has a harder style which needs time to soften. There is potential here though, as although less elegant than most other recent vintages the acidity is nicely integrated and there are certainly signs that this is coming together on the palate. From a tasting of Recent Vintages at Phélan-Ségur. 15.5/20 (October 2011)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2006: This has sweet, nutty oak and dark fruit evident on the nose. A supple, gentle character on the palate, but with a lot of tannins underneath, although admittedly with a ripe feel to them. An appealing style overall, although I think it just lacks a little flesh and substance to round it out. From a tasting of 2006 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15+/20 (October 2008)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2006: A pleasing nose, of dark, toasty fruit. Nice style, a touch of flesh to the fore, but a slightly hollow midpalate, with lots of structure beneath. It has a nice character though and I hope it would flesh out a little in barrel. Lots of firm grip and good acidity. Decent wine. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 15-16/20 (April 2007)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2005: This vintage seems very dense and withdrawn on the nose - and this seems quite typical, as the majority of the 2005s I have tasted recently are showing in this manner. But there is a reassuring tone to the fruit, not evolved but not straightforward either, with tinges of complexity, and with a black-liquorice density to it. The palate is very harmonious and well formed, with supple fruit laid over a very fine-boned structure of acid and tannin, which seems in total harmony with the wine. This has a super composition, with nothing out of place, coming across as quite harmonious and compelling . As I return to it later it seems even more and more aromatic. A brilliant effort. From a tasting of Recent Vintages at Phélan-Ségur. 17.5/20 (October 2011)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2005: This has a very dark hue, and lovely, aromatic, dense, dark and rather gravelly fruit. The palate has a rather pure character with an appealing leanness, and a raft of attractive red fruits presented in a direct, very well defined frame. This certainly has a pleasing nature, backed up by good extract and substance. There is a lot of stuffing for the cellar here. Very good indeed. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17+/20 (October 2007)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2004: This wine comes across as rather expressive and open, with notes of coffee and sweet red fruits. I confess I find this combination very appealing in this instance. The palate has a really delicately crafted balance; there is a very thin seam of bright acidity which comes through very clearly, but it does not override or detract from the wine. The other structural elements are quite composed. Aromatically this is showing a little more secondary character and is clearly more evolved than the younger vintages; this is attractive and is ready to go very soon. From a tasting of Recent Vintages at Phélan-Ségur. 16/20 (October 2011)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2004: CS 47%, M 51%, CF 2%. A little Cabernet Franc in this vintage for Phélan-Ségur. Lovely, open, sweet fruit on the nose, the oak is still resolving here, but it shows a good concentration of fruit too. Good depth, structured, very complete style, a little dense, gritty and perhaps a bit tight. Lovely structure overall and nicely balanced components. Very good potential here. I like this a little more than my last tasting. From a Bordeaux 2004 tasting. 16.5+/20 (November 2007)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2004: Rather sweet blackcurrant and blackberry fruit on the nose here. Firm, stony, structured style on the palate, nicely balanced with fruit and texture and a grippy structure beneath it. Good acid. Rather primary, oak-derived dark fruit crumble character. Good style. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 16+/20 (October 2006)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2003: A darker hue here. Very ripe fruit character on the nose, losing fruit definition, with a toffee edge to it that at this stage probably reflects fruit character and the heat of the vintage more than anything else. There is a sweet intensity to the fruit and little notes of coffee as well. This is not showing such delicate, overt evolution as the 2001. The palate is soft but there is structure underneath, with lots of tannins coming through the wine, with a solid, chewy, firm consistency. There is acidity though, so this doesn't show any sign of falling apart. The finish is slightly exotic, with that ripe fruit density to it, and it is fairly long and tannin-infused. A wine which reflects the vintage but in a more composed manner than some wines - the commune was reputed to have done well, of course. Good. From a tasting of Recent Vintages at Phélan-Ségur. 16.5/20 (October 2011)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2003: This has the now quite familiar mark of 2003 on the nose, exotic cherry fruit, but marked with a deeper, complex, smoked meat note. On the palate, a pleasing extract and texture is balanced by a level of acidity which is handsome for the vintage. Overall this has a very nice style, and shows the quality that could be achieved in St Estèphe in this atypical year. A good wine, where the superficial appeal is matched by some depth and appropriate structure. Very impressive. 17-17.5/20 (November 2006)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2002: It is surprising to me that this seems a little more dense and confident on the nose than the 2001, although other elements, such as the lightly gamey edge to the fruit, and the hints of greenness I find here, suggestive of green olive, are less out of keeping with the vintage. It is also a touch leafy, smoky and stemmy. It certainly reflects the vintage. A nice texture on the palate though, although the acidity is immediately prominent, with gently polished fruit underneath. It has a stony edge but not the greenness I thought I might see based on the aromatics, more a lean-fruit character than anything. A crunchy finish still, with puckering tannins. Very much a food wine rather than one for hedonists. From a tasting of Recent Vintages at Phélan-Ségur. 14.5/20 (October 2011)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2001: Much more evolved on the nose than any of the other vintages tasted here, this seems gentle, relaxed and welcoming. It has gentle scents of tea leaves and black olives to offer up, all soft rather than challenging rather than anything more tight. It is very appealing. There is a lovely substance on entry, vibrant but not excessive acidity, quite lifting in fact, and there is tannin in the background, and this would be super with food right now. There is also a little stony, redcurrant fruit still. Overall a very attractive wine right now, certainly approachable, nevertheless there is certainly still some structure here so there is no rush; there is further development on the cards here. From a tasting of Recent Vintages at Phélan-Ségur. 16/20 (October 2011)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2001: 60% CS, 40% M. More open and relaxed than the 2004, which I tasted recently. Developing some very nice complex notes on the nose, appealing soft fruits, and a little herby edge. Rather cool style on the palate, very gentle entry, soft and sweet, ripe fruit, nicely balanced, with a good depth. This has an almost supple character. Quite a bit of grip on the finish and a nice length. Approachable for drinking now but it has a little more to give yet I think. 16+/20 (November 2007)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2001: The nose is not giving much away here, just some dark fruits with a hint of oak. A good, balanced palate. It has medium weight and some elegance, although with plenty of spicy tannins in the background. Some sweet fruit. Keep for five to six years. This is quite delicious. 15.5+/20 (May 2004)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2000: This has a lovely iron and tea leaf character on the nose, this being an expressive and softly maturing wine. It is slightly leathery, with hints of undergrowth, so there is clearly some good secondary development here. Returning to it later, it does continue to open up. It seems rather full and solid on the palate at the start, with a slightly cool and detached character, although having tasted other wines recently this is how the vintage seems to me at present. The wines show as dense and still a little backward and clearly aren't ready; although aromatically interesting when it comes to the palate Phélan-Ségur is no exception. The acidity seems very coherent, giving lift and brightness to the palate, the tannins firm and typical of the appellation, and the overall composition is forceful and confident. A solid, fading finish. This needs time yet but has super potential, although with a few hours of decanting it may now be ready to go. From a tasting of Recent Vintages at Phélan-Ségur. 17/20 (October 2011)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2000: Rather evolved compared to the more youthful wines also tasted on this day. It has a deep, brooding, claretty nose which certainly appeals to me. Full, fresh, with lots of extract on the palate. There is good grip underneath, but nice flesh on top, and overall a nice style. This is very nice indeed. From a Bordeaux tasting with Bibendum. 16.5+/20 (April 2007)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2000: A really attractive nose here, just closing down I think, as the aromas are fleeting, rather primary, exotic and deeply fruited, combined with a little nutty oak, and they are not matched on the palate. Nevertheless this wine has a very rounded, complete, balanced composition, with a fresh, acidic structure. It just lacks a little flavour at present, but this will come with time. Short finish, I suspect this too will alter when the wine opens out. I think this has lovely potential. 16.5-17/20 (November 2006)

Château Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 1998: A serious nose to this wine, with dark, smoky fruits and a classic, restrained character. This is impressive. A good, sweet texture on entry, with soft ripe tannins, sweet fruit and low acidity. This is delicious and approachable now although it will improve in the cellar for three to four years. I can see why Gardinier was confident about his selling price. 16+/20 (November 2004)