Domaine du Haut Bourg, 2018 Update
The long-lees-aged style is firmly established in the Muscadet region, and is I think gaining traction in the minds of Muscadet drinkers. Having been developed over many decades, the concept was embodied within the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation back in 2011 when the first the cru communal zones were officially ratified, these being Gorges, Clisson and Le Pallet. At some point during 2018 I expect to see the next round of cru communal zones, which should include Mouzillon-Tillières, Monnières-Saint-Fiacre, Château-Thébaud and Goulaine, join these first three.
The vignerons of the Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire and Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu appellations also have cru communal aspirations, although the former, with the proposed cru of Champtoceaux, seem somewhat ahead of their Grandlieu counterparts. That does not mean, however, that the Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu appellation is devoid of such wines; indeed, one of the most striking examples of the long-lees-aged style is to be waiting to be found here, at Domaine du Haut Bourg. Bearing in mind the Origine du Haut Bourg cuvée whiles away its first ten years sur lie, waiting to be bottled, it would seem the Choblet bothers know a thing or two about the beneficial effects of leaving their wine on the lees.
I recently met up with Nicolas and Hervé Choblet to taste some of their latest releases. I have already published my tasting notes on wines from the 2017 vintage in my Muscadet 2017 report, so here I look at other wines, from 2016 and older vintages, including three vintages of Origine du Haut Bourg.
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