The Muscadet Crus Communaux
The genesis of the crus communaux has been the most exciting development in the Muscadet region since the Nantais nectar first passed my lips (which was at least a couple of decades ago, if you were wondering). Indeed, it is arguably the most significant development in the entire Loire Valley during that same time.
The development of the cru communal system was driven from within the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation, by the growers themselves. Numerous vignerons recognised that if the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation was ‘regional level’, like Chablis, then there should also be specific terroirs (akin to the premiers and grands crus found in Chablis) which were capable of giving superior wines, thereby creating a quality pyramid within the appellation. For some growers, defining these terroirs became a major focus of their activities, and the time and energy they invested eventually bore fruit in November 2011, when the first three crus communaux of the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation were enshrined in the appellation’s rule book.
Today there are seven ratified crus communaux, with more on the way. Some vignerons, such as Bernard Chéreau (pictured) of Chéreau-Carré have vines in the majority of these crus, and seem intent on acquiring more, while others seem content to work in just one or two crus. In this section of my guide to the Muscadet crus communaux I will explore on this page the development and ratification of the various crus, as well as exploring some common features such as the work in the vineyard and cellars, before I go on to look at each cru in turn on subsequent pages.
The 2011 Crus Communaux
The process that led up to this moment was a protracted one, having begun in 1988 with the Vins du Vignoble Nantais commission which was created in response to calls from vignerons for a cru system. An expert advisory committee was formed in 1989, but work did not really get underway until 1995 when the committee began conducting a number of fact-finding missions to the region. First they visited the vignerons to hear their rationale for the creation of the new crus, followed in 1996 and 1997 by visits to various terroirs and work to understand the various cuvées. Any conclusions they made were no doubt informed and underlined by a series of tastings which were undertaken in 1998.
