Ask any fan of Muscadet to point out where the best wines of the commune are to be found, and I would not be surprised if their index finger settled on Clisson. With its bedrock of hard grey granite, this commune has developed a reputation (among Loire geeks at least – perhaps not with a broader audience) for producing firm, solidly composed and ageworthy wines. It is perhaps the best known of all the regions of the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation, and having been one of the first three regions to have its status as cru communal officially ratified, its place in the hearts of all committed Muscadet drinkers is probably set to be maintained.
What then, of Saint-Fiacre? Only true Muscadet anoraks are probably aware of this particular Nantais commune, although that might change once this too is admitted to the ranks of the crus communaux. It might not trip off the tongue as rapidly or easily as Clisson or Gorges, but there is plenty to commend this little corner of Muscadet. First, in the very western extremity where the Maine meets the Sèvre, lies Château du Coing, home to Véronique Günther-Chéreau. At its southern tip can be found Domaine du Grand Mouton, where Louis Métaireau once kick-started quality in the Muscadet region with his Les Vignerons d’Art group. And right next door are the rolling vineyards of Les Gras Moutons, which will be familiar to fans of Domaine de la Pépière; the vines here provide proprietor Marc Ollivier and his team with fruit for a single gneiss cuvée, a contrast to the other wines in his portfolio which all come from granite terroirs.