The car bounced just a little harder along the coarse tarmac of the single track road as I pressed the accelerator. I had not long passed Château Bernadotte, a minor estate situated in Fournas, in the Haut-Médoc vineyards west of the Pauillac appellation. Now I was headed south and east, back towards St Julien and – just a little, to be fair – it felt as though I was heading back to civilisation. Although there are a few vines around Fournas, I had quickly left such evidence of viticulture behind, and the narrow road was lined with dense pine woods on one side, and a tall thicket on the other.
Rounding a near-ninety-degree bend, the road began to climb slightly, and after passing a high wall on the left the landscape suddenly opened out. At first there was bare grassland, and then suddenly vines, the trees now seemingly pushed back by the now-dominant vineyard. And to the left, in the distance, a grand château appeared, albeit one partially obscured by trees. It was October, and harvest was just getting underway, and I could see the saisonniers scurrying around, ant-like both in their endless activity and their tiny, distant appearance. But what was this place? It was not long before I found out – the conveniently position road sign gave a bit of a clue. On this journey through the backwaters of Bordeaux I had chanced upon, on the very periphery of the Pauillac appellation, Château Lynch-Moussas.Please log in to continue reading: