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Chateau Pichon-Lalande
The early history of Chateau Pichon-Lalande naturally matches that of its twin sibling, Pichon-Baron, the two having both been created from the great Pichon estate. The estate as a whole dates back to the time of Bernard de Longueville, the son of François de Pichon and Catherine de Bavolier. The family assumed the Barony of Longueville when Bernard married Anne Daffis de Longueville in 1646. Together they had two sons, the first of whom was François, who by marriage took on the Barony of Parempuyre. The second was Jacques, who married Thérèse de Rauzan, daughter of Pierre de Mazure de Rauzan. It was the line of descendents from Jacques and Thérèse that are most relevant to the history of Pichon-Lalande.
As I describe in my profile of
Pichon-Baron, the Rauzan family were not newcomers to viticulture, having already owned
vineyards in Margaux, and in 1689 they had purchased several plots in Pauillac which,
when they came to the Pichon family, were to be the foundation for the Pichon
vineyard. In later years these were augmented by the exchange of plots of vines
with neighbouring
Latour.
The estate quickly developed an excellent reputation, second only, at least
within the boundaries of the commune, to its more illustrious neighbour. Jacques
died in 1731 and the property was inherited by his son, also Jacques, and it
passed through two more generations of the Pichon family, Jean-Pierre and then
Joseph. Born in 1755, it was Joseph who held tenure during the French
Revolution, which saw him incarcerated for a short period of time. He was also
the last member of the Pichon family who held sway over all the vines, as upon
his death the estate was divided between his children, creating the Pichon
faux jumeaux that we know today. Of the five offspring, only one son
remained; this was Raoul, who assumed the title of Baron, and would seem to be
the heir apparent. Under new Napoleonic laws, however, the estate could not pass
intact to a sole recipient, but must be divided between all possible heirs. And
so two shares, including that which would have passed to their late son Louis,
came to Raoul, and thus the Pichon-Baron die was cast. The remaining three
shares passed to the daughters, these vineyards forming the nexus of Chateau
Pichon-Lalande.
For some time the estate was still managed as a single entity, although following the death of Raoul in 1860 the portion that came to the sisters became increasingly independent, under the direction of one daughter in particular, Marie-Laure-Virginie. Marie-Laure had married Comte Henri de Lalande in 1818, and had thus taken the title of Comtesse de Lalande. No doubt they resided in the recently constructed chateau, a attractive design by the celebrated architect Duplot erected in 1840, which comfortably matches that found at Pichon-Baron in terms of beauty and architectural appeal. With the death of her two sisters, Sophie (a nun) and Gabrielle (who married Comte de Laveur), both of whom were childless, Marie-Laure gained exclusive tenure over the whole estate, which was classed as a deuxième cru in the 1855 classification. But when she died in 1882, also without an heir, Pichon-Lalande was bequeathed to her niece, Elizabeth de Narbonne-Pelet, who was wedded to another Lalande, Comte Charles. From her it passed to a daughter, Sophie, and on her death to Elizabeth's grandchildren, of which there were five. They subsequently sold the estate, the new owners being a consortium led by Louis and Eduoard Miailhe.
The Miailhe family started out as brokers and négociants, having arrived in the region in the 18th Century. In the early 20th Century, however, they branched out to purchase properties of their own, starting with Coufran in 1924. Subsequently they acquired Siran, Verdignan, Citran (subsequently sold on to the Merlaut-Villars family) and Soudars, but their greatest acquisition was doubtlessly Pichon-Lalande. As part of the consortium they owned 55% of the estate; following the death of Edouard in 1959 the estate was divided, and the Pichon-Lalande component was initially managed by William-Alain Miailhe. He resigned in 1972 following what can only be described as irreconcilable differences, and from 1975 to 1978 the estate was managed by Michel-Delon of Léoville-Las-Cases. It was only in 1978 that the estate passed to Eduoard's youngest daughter, May-Eliane. May-Eliane had been married to the late General Hervé de Lencquesaing, and had as a consequence been away from Bordeaux for many years, and had paid scant attention to the property. Nevertheless, upon taking control, she acted quickly; her first act was to buy out four of the other associates, thus acquiring 84% of the stock in the property. Until very recently May-Eliane de Lencquesaing and her children owned Pichon-Lalande outright, and over the years they have worked hard, and the fabulous wines produced at the estate today are testament to her time and efforts here.
Nevertheless
time waits for no man (or woman) and with her advancing age, and the lack of an
obvious single heir, it was perhaps natural that Madame de Lencquesaing should
look for outside investment in Pichon-Lalande. Under current legislation,
inheritance taxes - which date back to the time of Napoleon - could easily force the family
into selling the estate if it were to be divided between the numerous members of
the next generation. The frontrunner throughout the negotiations appeared to be
the Hermès family, who still own the Parisian fashion
house of the same name. But then in a surprise announcement it was revealed that
Pichon-Lalande had been acquired by none other than the Rouzard family of
Roederer, the family acquiring a majority share of the estate, as well as in
Chateau Bernadotte, also run by the de Lencquesaing family. Despite this change
of ownership May-Eliane's legacy lives on at Pichon-Lalande; today the estate is managed by
May-Eliane's
nephew Gildas
d'Ollone. He has control over 75 hectares of vines, mostly in the commune of
Pauillac
although there are also some in St Julien, and as recently as 1959
there were some bottles labelled as AC Pauillac and others AC St Julien (the
wine, apparently, was the same regardless). During May-Eliane's tenure the vineyard expended considerably, from an area of
about 40 hectares as she took control to the size it is today. A major acquisition
was made in the late 1960s with the purchase of 10 hectares of Pauillac vines
situated between Pichon-Baron,
Latour, Batailley and
Haut-Bages-Libéral. Delon
acquired another 5 hectares. The major part of the vineyard is situated to the
west and south of Pichon-Baron, on typical Gunzien gravels over a deeper clay
and some very deep limestone and sandstone. The vines are 45% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, an impressive 12% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot. The
fruit is harvested by hand, before being destemmed and crushed, and then
fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, with a cuvaison
usually lasting between 18 and 24 days. As the year draws to a close, May-Eliane
and consulting oenologists Jacques Boissenot and Hubert de Boüard (the latter
best known for his extended and highly successful stewardship of
Angelus) earmark the
wines for grand vin, Chateau Pichon-Longueville, Comtesse de Lalande
(to give it its full title...about 35000 cases per annum), or the second wine, Réserve
de la Comtesse (about 6000 cases per annum). Some wines, particularly those from
young vines, are excluded completely. The grand vin goes into Allier and Nievre
oak, 50% new each vintage, for a period of up to 18 months, the second wine sees
25% new oak. There is a racking every three months, and a fining with egg white
prior to bottling.
Now it would not be true to say that I have acquaintances that would sell their a kidney for a case of Pichon-Lalande (although sometimes I have wondered whether they might), but certainly I have met many who hold the wines of this particular Pichon in very high regard. And rightly so. For the last few decades the wines have been some of the most consistent in Bordeaux, with only the occasional blip, although admittedly that can sometimes be in a perfectly adequate vintage when one might have expected better. Equally, however, there are lesser vintages when the team at Pichon-Lalande have turned out an excellent wine against the odds, with the 1991 being a prime example. Certainly the wines are distinctive, sometimes exotic, and very frequently of high quality. They can on occasion be spotted in blind tastings based on these characteristics. More importantly, they are fabulous to savour at home, with food, when they shine. Pichon-Lalande has long held a valid claim for the title of super-second, alongside the likes of Léoville-Las-Cases and Ducru-Beaucaillou. Very recent vintages, such as the 2003 and 2004, show that this level of quality has been maintained. The 1996 is wonderful, a majestic example of what is a great vintage for the left bank, despite what some critics opine. This is a property where, if your wallet can take the strain, you may usually buy with confidence. (6/3/07)
Contact details:
Address: 33250 Pauillac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 59 19 40
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 59 29 78
Internet:
www.pichon-lalande.com
Chateau Pichon-Lalande - Tasting Notes
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to locate stockists:
Chateau Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac) 2005:
A beautifully pure, dense, summer fruit nose here, elegant, but showing vigour.
This is a real delight on the palate; harmonious, elegant and composed, showing
a lot of vigour, direction and elegance, There is a slight fleshiness to the
texture, with fresh, lifting acidity and beautifully hidden tannins. This is
very fine indeed and has superb potential.
From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux
at two years of age. 19+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac) 2004: A dark, youthful claret hue
with a vibrant pink rim. The nose is dripping with fruit, fruit and fruit.
Certainly just as appealing as in October, although with more cherry and less
raspberry. Very pure, with a good presence. Not over fleshy or flashy. Vigorous,
with a good tannic backbone. Flavoursome, grippy, classically composed. An
under-rated vintage, this wine needs ten years, perhaps fifteen, in order to
show its best. 17.5+/20 (February 2007)
Chateau Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac) 2004: Oh my - this has a wonderfully expressive
nose, full of perfumed fruit, highly spiced raspberry and blackberry aromas
presented in a sexy, seductive fashion. Beautifully balanced, with a firm
presence of nicely poised tannins, well coated with fruit and an elegant, gliding
texture. Fresh and flavoursome, this has very admirable style
From a Bordeaux 2004 UGC
tasting. 17.5+/20 (October 2006)
Chateau Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac) 2003: A great nose here, of intense, dark
fruits swirled with raspberry compote, tinged with cashew nuts. But it is
seductive and restrained rather than slutty. Lovely, creamy, raspberry scented
fruit, fine elegance and texture. Beautifully structured, supple and well put
together. Nut and toffee influenced finish. In parts, quite gorgeous. A success!
From a Bordeaux 2003 UGC
tasting. 18+/20 (October 2005)
Réserve de la Comtesse (Pauillac) 2003: A little glossy, not so deeply
coloured as you might expect. It still shows rather a lot of oak, and it has a
slightly meaty spice, but with a nice, plummy, confit cherry fruit complexity.
On the palate it is moderately rich, a touch flashy, but not over the top. It
has a quite supple and soft texture, although it is fairly well defined. A well
composed, ripe, peppery style with a creamy midpalate. This is well knit
together with a nice little grip on the finish. Approachable now, but will
improve. 16.5+/20 (February 2007)
Réserve de la Comtesse (Pauillac) 2001: A fairly deep hue for a
'lesser' vintage. The fruit has subsided here, this wine now being six years
old. There are emerging secondary characteristics, with some gentle sandalwood
and a little tobacco, edging towards a little green peppercorn. It starts off
lean on the palate, but develops a nice flesh through the midpalate, and there
is a little grip behind it. Nice, fading fruit. Balanced and elegant, and
attractive with it. Perhaps missing a little concentration, but still eminently
drinkable. 16+/20 (February 2007)
Chateau Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac) 1996: A fine concentration of colour
here, right out to the rim. A very fine nose. The fine, pure Cabernet fruit that
makes this such a great vintage for the left bank is still showing a little
primary character, but less so now, with more secondary elements coming through.
It is still pure, though, and vigorous with some smoky, iron and cedar notes.
Slightly aloof at first on the palate, showing a lot of structure through the
midpalate, although it does flesh out. A touch creamy, with grip aplenty. This
is very stylish, and brimming with great promise. Right now it can be
appreciated for this, but it will be an immensely greater wine in ten years
time. 18.5+/20 (February 2007)
Chateau Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac) 1994: Dark, deeply coloured, mature.
An impressive nose, loaded with a super-sweet depth of smoky, meaty,
blackcurrant nose. The palate keeps up appearances, with a wealth of big, sweet,
glossy, creamy and textured fruit. Very accessible, voluptuous, although with a
tannic backbone. Exotic. Balanced. Absolutely gorgeous wine. Approachable now,
but with a little tannin still showing in the finish as well this has room for
improvement yet. From a Bordeaux
1994 tasting. 18+/20 (July 2004)
Chateau Pichon-Lalande
(Pauillac) 1993: This has much more colour than the last wine. A
lovely nose - pencil lead, cedar and spice-edged black fruits. Very dry on the
palate, very savoury, a wonderful foil for the food. Aromatic. Full, elegant
rather than opulent or creamy, with integrated tannins. Very classic. From a
1993 vintage tasting, ten
years on. 16.5/20 (December 2003)
Chateau Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac) 1991: Here's a beautifully coloured dark,
mahogany red wine, with a nose redolent of smoke, cedar, pencil-lead - a classic
Pauillac nose. The palate is elegant and structured, with wonderful tannins,
balanced acidity, and superbly restrained berry fruit. This is brilliant stuff,
with great quality and character of fruit. From a
1991 vintage tasting, ten
years on. 18/20 (December 2001)
Chateau Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac) 1988: It's stretching a point to list Mme Lencquesaing as winemaker, but do we really
need an excuse to drink Pichon? Obviously much more mature than the other wines
here. Mature aromas, meaty, inky, slightly vegetal. Seductive. Medium bodied,
more vegetal-meaty fruit. Fully integrated, ready now, and very fine balance
with it. Gorgeous. From a
Female Winemakers
tasting. 17/20 (January 2005)
Chateau Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac) 1987: Just a little sediment despite
decanting. This obviously mature wine now displays a fading, mature hue. The
nose is not particularly open or expressive despite having been decanted. It has a gentle meatiness, with a stony-seashell crispness and a touch
of iron. The palate has some appeal, although it lacks finesse and never really
flatters the taster with anything of substance. A touch lean, acidic, almost
disappearing on the midpalate, and rather short on the finish. To be honest it
is rather short on pleasure too. From the 2007
CIVB tasting. 13.5/20 (October 2007)
Chateau Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac) 1983: Mature hue. Smoky, meaty,
coffee-toffee nose. Ripe, intriguing, superb. What a seductive and sexy palate;
luscious plumpness, with spice and fruitcake and chocolate-smothered plums.
Ripe, full, and so drinkable. This is gorgeous - it has Pichon written all over
it. Should drink well for another five or six years at least. From a
Bordeaux 1983 tasting. 18/20
(February 2005)
Chateau Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac) 1983:
Another darkly coloured wine. A wonderful nose, which is intense and powerful, inviting
one to taste. Aromas of dark fruit and minerals, with chocolate, mocha and even a touch
of toffee. Powerful, rich and sweetly textured on the palate, but still with fine, crisp,
mineral-edged fruit. Again, wonderfully balanced acidity. Fantastic stuff. From
a 1983 vintage tasting,
twenty years on. 18.5/20 (April 2003)
Chateau Pichon-Lalande
(Pauillac) 1983: A moderately intense mahogany-purple hue.
A superb, classic, smoky, pencil lead mature claret nose
that sings Pichon-Lalande. The palate is fruit-laden,
with toffee notes and a superbly textured, creamy body.
The tannins are integrating and there is lovely, balanced
acidity. Finishes beautifully, with length. Absolutely
lovely wine. From a
Bordeaux 1983 tasting. 18/20
(November 2000)
Chateau Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac) 1975: An obviously mature hue.
Amusingly the Pichon-Lalande website suggests this should have been drunk up by
1998. Mature and macerated fruit, with a slightly meaty character, iron-like
notes, but fresh, with some tobacco and garden mint greenness. This is holding
up well on the palate, whereas I think many wines of this vintage are now dried
out, tannic ghosts of their former selves. This still has some flesh, with an
impressive creamy roundness to the midpalate. Delicious, and still with a little
lick of tannin on the finish. À pointe. 18/20 (February 2007)
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