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Chateau Lynch-Bages

The history of Lynch-Bages takes us back to the late 17th Century, to 1691, when John Lynch arrived in France from Ireland, and established himself as a trader of textiles, wool and leather in the bustling port of Bordeaux. He soon put down roots in his new home, marrying a local girl Guillemette Constant, and together they had two children. Of these, it was Thomas who seems to have been the most active in vinous circles, and during the 18th Century the family made a number of significant acquisitions, not only those two estates in Pauillac that still bear their name today, Lynch-Bages and Lynch-Moussas, but also Dauzac in Margaux. The estate of concern here, Lynch-Bages, actually came to the family by marriage, when Thomas was wedded to Elizabeth Drouillard. She had inherited the estate from her brother Pierre Drouillard, and he in turn had purchased the property from a gentleman named Bernard Dejean, who had owned vineyards around Bages and on the Grand-Puy plateau.

Together Thomas and Elizabeth had two children; Jean-Baptiste, who gained notoriety (as well as the noble title of Count in 1775) as a parliamentarian, and Michel, who was much more at home making the wine at the family's estates. By 1824, however, the Lynch-Bages estate as it was then known was sold, the purchaser being Sebastian Jurine, a Swiss wine merchant. From Jurine it passed to his son André-Louis, but following his death in 1861, by which time the estate was ranked a cinquième cru in the 1855 classification, the estate was sold in order to settle the inheritance. It was taken on by the Cayrou brothers, Jérôme-Maurice and Henri, local négociants, and was then passed down to Maurice's daughter, and then to General Félix de Vial. It was the General who sold the estate, in 1939, to Jean-Charles Cazes.

Cazes had started out as a baker, and was then an insurance agent, before he began to invest in the local vineyards. Through his contact with the local vignerons to whom he sold insurance, Cazes had learnt a lot about the wine business. He had not long purchased Les Ormes de Pez when, in 1934, he moved in at Lynch-Bages as a tenant, quickly taking on the responsibility for making the wine. Five years later he purchased the estate from his landlord, and he turned his attention towards rescuing the dilapidated chateau and neglected vineyards, some of which were used for growing potatoes in favour of vines, with great fervour. His work was the foundation for the success that Lynch-Bages enjoys today, and it has been continued by his descendents, control first passing to Jean-Charles' son André, then to the incomparable Jean-Michel in 1974, and most recently to his son Jean-Charles in late 2006. Jean-Michel is also due much credit for the success of Lynch-Bages, ratcheting up the quality several notches during his tenure, aided by winemaker Daniel Llose who he hired in 1976. Perhaps one of the most significant events during Jean-Michel's time at Lynch-Bages was the involvement of AXA Millésimes, the wine subsidiary of AXA, which was established by Cazes' old friend Claude Bébéar. The two established Chateaux et Associates, and together they manage Pichon-Baron, Petit Village, Suduiraut, Quinta do Noval and the Disznókö estate in Tokay, Hungary. It all meant Jean-Michel Cazes was a very busy man, but no doubt the new role taken on by his son will allow him to direct some of his obvious energy elsewhere. The purchase of Domaine des Sénéchaux in Chateauneuf du Pape, and the recent revitalisation of the village of Bages, suggests that Jean-Charles is not ready to hang up his cap just yet.

Chateau Lynch-Bages Today the vineyards total 90 hectares situated on the Bages plateau near the village of Bages itself, just southwest of Pauillac; they have a typical constitution of gravel over a layer of marl, chalk and sand, and are planted with predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon (73%), with 15% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. The average age of the vines is about 35 years and they are planted at a density of 9000 vines/ha. The fruit is harvested manually, then destemmed and crushed before fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel. The wine macerates in vat for a total of three weeks with malolactic in tank, before the wine is run off into oak for up to 15 months, with 60% new wood for every vintage. The grand vin here is Chateau Lynch-Bages, of which there are typically 25000 cases per annum. The nearby Chateau Haut Bages Averous has, since 1978, been used as the second label for Lynch-Bages (10000 cases per annum). There is also a 4.5 ha plot of white vines, comprising 40% Semillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Muscadelle which is used for the AC Bordeaux Blanc Blanc de Lynch-Bages (3000 cases per annum).

Although classified as a fifth growth, Lynch-Bages is one of those properties which illustrates the single most important failing of this classification; it is outdated and in desperate need of review if it is to really be anything other than a historical curiosity. That, of course, will never happen, but it hardly matters. Those in the know recognise that Chateau Lynch-Bages, under the direction of Jean-Michel Cazes and with financial backing from the AXA insurance group, often produces wine worthy of a higher classification, no matter what the label says. Many authors regard some older vintages as capable of challenging the first growths when tasted alongside one another. My tasting of recent vintages suggests to me that whilst quality here is very high, this is not really true of the wines coming out of Lynch-Bages today. Yes these are good wines, with appropriate scores, and they would stand up well in a comparative tasting with other Pauillac estates ranked as fifth growths. But in my opinion they are not comparable with the two Pichons, which are performing very well, let alone the first growths of today, and there are other estates ranked at the same level that are ahead of Lynch-Bages. But these comparisons pick out minor differences, and should not detract from the fact that the wines are very good. I hope that under the tenure of the latest in the Cazes dynasty, quality will be maintained. (24/7/04, updated 30/3/07)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Lynch-Bages, 33250 Pauillac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 73 24 00
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 59 26 42
Internet: www.lynchbages.com

Chateau Lynch-Bages - Tasting Notes

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2008

Chateau Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2008: Sweet, crystalline, cherry fruit with a dark character and also a little toast. The palate is rounded, seamless but firm; there is a little not of oiliness to it too. Lots of meat here, good fruit, not particularly vibrant but certainly dense. Polished, but not as bright or vigorous as some. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2009)

2007

Chateau Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2007: Lots of sweet and nutty oak on the nose here, and some spiced plum fruit. It has an appealing presence on the palate, a very gentle style, and not a lot of vigour or direction. There is quite some grip behind it though. The concentration isn't particularly impressive. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 13-14+/20 (April 2008)

2005

Chateau Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2005: This has a slightly smoky nose, with a wealth of pure, nicely directed, quite fine fruit. There is a similarly high quality of dense but nicely composed fruit on the palate, with well covered tannins at the core, which show through a little on the midpalate. It has a rather large, chewy style, belying its big, structured character. But there is a decent frame of acidity too. Very good indeed, with fine potential. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17.5+/20 (October 2007)

2004

Chateau Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2004: Pure and stony fruit on the nose of this wine, with classic blackcurrant tones and a polished stone-pebble character mingling with notes of exotic fruits and toasty oak. The same style is found on the palate; elegantly polished forest fruits, nicely covered structure, good ripe tannins and a creamy, broad, mouth-filling finish. Very good indeed. From a 2004 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 17+/20 (November 2008)

Chateau Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2004: An appealing nose, exotically spiced, with good depth of character. Rather svelte tannins early on to say the least, and a nicely composed, creamy texture. Through the midpalate seems firmer, more traditional, although they are well covered. This could be excellent, but will need to lie in the cellar for some time. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 17+/20 (October 2006)

2003

Chateau Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2003: A nice, nutty, macerated fruit nose, although not the most expressive. Nice, cool style on entry, well structured with ripe and supple tannins, again nicely knitted into the fruit and texture. Dark fruit flavour profile. Sadly acidity rather on the low side. Will make good mid-term drinking though. From my 2003 Bordeaux assessment. 16+/20 (October 2005)

2001

Chateau Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2001: Dark, smoky, nutty fruit on the nose. Lovely! Full textured palate. Ripe tannins with good acidity. Still has a youthful structure. Seems a touch exotic at present but this will go as it will close down soon. Needs eight years plus in the cellar. This is very good and has super potential. 16.5+/20 (May 2004)

1999

Blanc de Lynch-Bages (Bordeaux) 1999: A pale golden hue. It has a lovely, complex nose, initially showing wet stones, golden fruits and lemon pastry, but later a greater depth of flavour with pineapple and marzipan. On the palate it is fresh and medium bodied, with a bitter twist behind the stony, mineral-laden fruit. My only concern is that it seems a little dilute, but with air in the glass - and I suspect time in the bottle - it fleshes out. With time, in fact, it shows a good texture, and is nicely balanced. Plenty of spice and an almost creamy lemon pie note on the finish. Approachable now, but really needs another year or two. 17/20 (October 2003) Label

1998

Chateau Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 1998: There is a dense wealth of black fruits on the nose here. Delicious presence on the palate, with superb balance, combined with rich extract and an exotic edge to the flavour. Quite some development since my last tasting two years ago, but needs three to four more years in the cellar to show its best. 17+/20 (November 2003)

Chateau Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 1998: Clean and smoky blackcurrant fruit on the nose here, which follows through on the palate as a smooth, elegant layer of primary fruit flavour. Wonderful structure, with great tannins and acidity suggesting great ageing potential. Needs eight years. 17+/20 (November 2001)

1997

Chateau Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 1997: Another advanced, mature colour. An initially exciting nose, with exotic Asian spices, black beans and sweet roasted plums - but these aromas quickly dissipate, leaving something fairly dull. Full and rounded texture on the palate, with some fruit. Spicy tannins and low acidity. Good length. One of the better wines of the tasting. From a 1997 Bordeaux tasting. 14/20 (February 2003)

1975

Chateau Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 1975: Seems off on the nose. Dominated by aromas of oxidation, with a hint of beef extract alongside. The palate is dead. No flavour, just a rounded texture and a spice edge. Over the hill. From a 1975 Bordeaux tasting. Not rated. (August 2002)

1961

Chateau Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 1961: A lovely depth of colour here, quite a youthful appearance for a wine now in its fifth decade. The nose has an attractive, smoky, minerally, iron and blood character, with complex nuances of roast lamb, eucalyptus and coffee. The palate is full, slightly chalky, but with a good texture nevertheless. Rather firm, with some good grip, a really nice presence on the palate overall. A lovely, complete wine. Very good indeed. From a 1961 Bordeaux tasting. 17.5/20 (June 2007)