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Château Lynch-Bages

Although classified as a fifth growth, Château Lynch-Bages is one of those properties which illustrates the single most important failing of this classification; although some aspects of the classification remain quite applicable today, many do not, and the track record of over-performance exhibited by Lynch-Bages in many vintages is one such aberration.

When I first set about learning about Bordeaux, Lynch-Bages was a real insiders wine; those with more experienced palates than my own at my local tasting group - surely the best way to learn about these increasingly expensive wines - would rave about Lynch-Bages, or "Lunch-Bags" as it was affectionately known. These happy Bordeaux savants knew a good wine when they tasted it, and had long recognised that under the tenure of the Cazes family this cinquième cru was turning out wines more befitting of a deuxième. Indeed, some wine writers that I read at the time clearly regarded some older vintages as capable of challenging the first growths when tasted alongside. Lynch-Bages was, for many, a 'must-buy' wine in any vintage. In more recent years, however, that tenet is perhaps not always so true. But before I expand on that last statement, first a little history and other relevant information.

Lynch-Bages: An Early History

An examination of the history of Lynch-Bages takes us back to the late 17th century, to 1691, when John Lynch arrived in France from Ireland, and established himself as a trader of textiles, wool and leather in the bustling port of Bordeaux. He soon put down roots in his new home, marrying a local girl Guillemette Constant in 1709, subsequently taking French citizenship in 1710. Together John and Guillemette had two children, Thomas-Michel and Jean-Arthur, and of these it was the former who seems to have been the most active in vinous circles. During the 18th century he made a number of significant acquisitions, not only those two estates in Pauillac that still bear the family's name today, Lynch-Bages and Lynch-Moussas, but also Dauzac in Margaux. The estate that concerns us here, Lynch-Bages, actually came to the family by marriage, Thomas-Michel having been wedded to Elizabeth Drouillard in 1740. The Drouillard family had owned this estate since 1728, having purchased the property from Bernard Déjean, a gentleman who had owned vineyards around Bages and on the Grand-Puy plateau. Elizabeth and Thomas were the eventual beneficiaries of the estate, when Elizabeth inherited it from her father Pierre Drouillard upon his death in 1749.

Together Thomas and Elizabeth had six children, and of these it was their second son, Jean-Baptiste, who gained most notoriety. His fame and fortune came though politics, having been appointed Counsellor to the Bordeaux Parliament by Louis XV in 1770, before accepting the presidency of the Second Chambre des Enquêtes to the same Parliament in 1783. It is perhaps no surprise that on the occasion of his marriage he received the Bages estate as a gift from his parents. Unfortunately such power and wealth made him an obvious target during the Revolution, and in 1793 he was imprisoned. Once released, however, he was able to continue in politics, being elected President of General Council of the Gironde in 1809. He was subsequently honoured with the noble title of Count in 1810, and made a Peer of France during the reign of Louis XVIII, before taking on the mayorship of Bordeaux.

Such an accomplished political career was not, of course, the result of worrying himself over viticulture and winemaking, and during Jean-Baptiste's ascendancy of the ladder of power it was his brother Michel who tended the vineyards. Nevertheless, he did not escape the attention of France's new citizens during the Revolution, and he too was imprisoned despite seemingly offering the revolutionary process much more support than his brother. He returned to his vines after his release until his death in 1824. Neither he nor Jean-Baptiste had sired an heir, and so Lynch-Bages was sold off, the new buyer being Sébastien Jurine, a Swiss wine merchant. From Jurine it passed to his son André-Louis, but following his death in 1861, by which time the estate was ranked a cinquième cru in the 1855 classification, the estate - at this time known as Jurine-Bages - was sold in order to settle the inheritance. It was taken on by the Cayrou brothers, Jérôme-Maurice and Henri, local négociants, who reverted to the original name of Lynch-Bages. From them the estate was passed down to Maurice's daughter, and then to General Félix de Vial. It was the General who brought the Cazes family and Lynch-Bages together, first when he leased the vineyards to them, eventually selling the estate to Jean-Charles Cazes in 1939.

The Cazes Era

Born in 1877 to a rural peasant family recently moved to Bordeaux, Jean-Charles Cazes had started out as a baker, but after the bakery was destroyed by fire in 1924 he subsequently moved into banking, before he began to invest in the local vineyards. Through his work at the bank he developed a complex network of contacts including many local vignerons, and from them Cazes learnt a lot about the wine business. He had not long purchased Les Ormes de Pez (his sister also married the cellar master) when, in 1934, he moved in at Lynch-Bages as a tenant, quickly taking on the responsibility for making the wine for General Félix de Vial. Five years later he purchased the estate from his landlord, and he set about rescuing the dilapidated château and neglected vineyards, some of which had been used for growing potatoes in favour of vines, with great fervour. His work was the foundation for the success that Lynch-Bages enjoys today, and it has been continued by his descendents, control first passing to Jean-Charles' son André, then to his incomparable grandson Jean-Michel, and most recently to his great grandson Jean-Charles.

André Cazes, although a lawyer and purveyor of insurance, soon began to help his father Jean-Charles on the family estate. During World War II he was held captive for five years, but on his return home he took up the reins once more. His involvement really took off in the 1960s, taking full control in 1966. It was André that acquired the neighbouring properties Château Haut-Bages-Averous, the name of which was used as a second label for Lynch-Bages for many years, as well as Château Saussus. He expanded the vineyards, replanting areas abandoned during the phylloxera crisis almost one hundred years before, and under his tenure the area committed to vines reached approximately the area covered today.

Jean-Michel, who had carved out a career as an engineer and had settled in Paris, only returned to Lynch-Bages to assist his father 1973. He is due much credit for the success of Lynch-Bages, ratcheting up the quality several notches during his tenure, aided by winemaker Daniel Llose who he hired in 1976. Perhaps one of the most significant events for Jean-Michel during his tenure at Lynch-Bages was the involvement of AXA Millésimes, the wine subsidiary of AXA, which was established by Cazes' old friend Claude Bébéar. The two established Châteaux et Associates, and together they managed Pichon-Baron, Petit Village, Suduiraut, Quinta do Noval and the Disznókö estate in Tokaj, Hungary. These responsibilities have long since been handed over to Christian Seely, AXA's new man in Bordeaux (and Hungary, and Portugal) but at the time Jean-Michel Cazes was a very busy man. And the purchase of Domaine des Sénéchaux in Châteauneuf du Pape, and the recent revitalisation of the village of Bages, suggests that Jean-Charles is not ready to hang up his cap just yet.

In 2006 it was Jean-Charles Cazes, named for his great-grandfather no doubt, who took control of the estate, and Jean-Michel's sister Sylvie Cazes - who took on a role of manager at Pichon-Lalande in 2011 - also heads up the board of directors.

The Lynch-Bages Vineyards

Today the vineyards total 100 hectares (the entire estate amounting to 105 hectares), divided between three major plots. The first two lie on the Bages plateau near the village of Bages itself, just southwest of Pauillac. One plot, replanted in the 1980s, lies around the château which sits on one corner of the villages of Bages which has benefited greatly from investments made by the Cazes family. These vines thus lie sandwiched between Bages and the industrial and residential suburbs of Pauillac itself. The second major plot lies to the west, on the other side of Bages, whereas the third lies further south again, near the border with St Julien.

The vineyards have a typical Médocian constitution of Gunzian gravel over a layer of marl, chalk and sand, and are planted with predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon at 72% of the total area, with 20% Merlot (this area having been increased somewhat in recent years), 5% Cabernet Franc (correspondingly, this has been reduced somewhat) and 3% Petit Verdot. The average age of the vines is about 30 years although clearly this varies greatly across the estate; to the west of Bages there are some vines that claim 80 years, for example, as well as plots very recently grubbed up and replanted. The planting density is 9000 vines/ha. There is also a 6-hectare plot of white vines established by Jean-Michel in 1990. Lying further inland than the red vineyards, this plot comprises 53% Sauvignon Blanc (a recent increase), 32% Semillon and 15% Muscadelle (both reined in a little in recent years).

Lynch-Bages: Vinification and Wines

The fruit is harvested manually, then destemmed and crushed before fermentation in a mix of 35 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats of varying sizes allowing for plot-by-plot vinification. The wine macerates in vat for a total of three weeks with malolactic fermentation here for approximately two-thirds of the harvest, but one-third undergoes malolactic in barrel. Once all the wine is run off into oak, which is generally 70-80% new each vintage, it will rest here for typically up to 12-15 months. During this time it is likely to be racked five to six times before it is eventually bottled. The resulting grand vin is Château Lynch-Bages, a Cabernet-dominated blend which will typically be 75-85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5-10% Cabernet Franc, with just 10-15% Merlot and a soupçon of Petit Verdot. There are usually in the order of 25000 cases per annum. The nearby Château Haut Bages Averous has, from 1978 up until the 2007 vintage, been used as the second label for Lynch-Bages (10000 cases per annum), but in the 2008 vintage the second wine was rebranded as Echo de Lynch-Bages. Intended for earlier consumption, this wine if generally only 50-60% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 25-30% Merlot and 15-20% Cabernet Franc.

As for the white grapes, these form the basis of an AC Bordeaux informatively christened Blanc de Lynch-Bages. This is part-fermented in new oak barrels, with 50% of the wine handled in this manner, while 30% is fermented in one-year old barrels, and the remaining 20% is fermented in vat. The whole process is thermo-regulated, and once finished the wine rests on its lees for six months, with daily bâtonnage, before eventual assembly and bottling. The total production runs to about 3000 cases per annum.

Lynch-Bages: Tasting & Drinking

Before I finish up, I should return to the thoughts expressed in my opening paragraphs. Although my tasting colleagues of old faithfully put their money into "Lunch-Bags" in every vintage, my tastings of more recent vintages suggested something different to me. I recognised that while quality here was very high, the ultra-reliability my fellow Bordeaux fans perceived seemed to have faded a little. Yes, there were good wines here, with appropriately favourable scores, and they would stand up well in a comparative tasting with other Pauillac estates ranked as fifth growths. But in my opinion they were not comparable with the two Pichons, which were performing very well, let alone first growths, and there are other estates ranked at the same level that are ahead of Lynch-Bages.

Nevertheless, in the most recent of vintages I have seen more polish and power from Lynch-Bages than before, and some particular successes - in admittedly favourable vintages such as 2009 and 2010 - has forced me to accept that there is certainly something very special here. It doesn't show in every vintage, but when the Cazes family get it right, these wines clearly do have the potential to blow at least some of the competition out of the water. I hope that under the tenure of the latest addition to the Cazes dynasty, Jean-Charles, this high level of quality will be maintained. (24/7/04, updated 30/3/07, 18/8/11)

Contact details:
Address: Château Lynch-Bages, 33250 Pauillac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 73 24 00
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 59 26 42
Internet: www.lynchbages.com
GPS: 45.19115, -0.753985

Château Lynch-Bages - Tasting Notes

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Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2010: The assemblage here is 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. A very dense colour here, a dark crimson hue with a moderate rim of brighter colour. The nose suggests deeply concentrated fruit essence, with a smoky, creamy, black cherry and blackcurrant style. It has a lovely supple character, showing a little more reserved style through the middle though, with a more subtle layer of fruit than expected, although there is certainly a vigour to the wine in terms of structure. There is bright acidity, a composed presence, and indeed it comes across as a beautiful, very harmonious whole on a second look. The tannins are rich and velvety, and the fruit seems well positioned to cope with them. This is a really appealing style, long, with lingering coating tannins, and has to be highly ranked within the commune. From my Bordeaux 2010 primeurs assessment. 17.5-18.5/20 (April 2011)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2009: An exotic, spiced nose, showing some barrel influence of course but there is undeniably a wealth of ripe fruit here, with rich, deep, savoury and complex nuances. The palate is beautiful and truly very convincing. There is an elegant substance and flesh, and yet a lifted delicacy to it all, with the fine-boned presence of tannin together with fresh acidity. The finish is savoury, long and intricate. A very convincing vintage for Lynch-Bages, and one of the best showings at two years of age that I can recall in recent years. Delicious style and superb potential. From a tasting of 2009 Bordeaux at two years of age. 18/20 (October 2011)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2009: A deep and glossy appearance, with a crimson-blue rim. Very dark fruit on the nose, dark berries, and forest fruits, all with a sweet and slightly gritty character. On the palate a very sweet depth of fruit to match, creamed forest berries, velvety tannins, with lots of grip and spice. The acidity takes a backseat here, and overall it seems very open and approachable now. All the same, very good. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (March 2010)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2008: An unusual nose of slightly caramelised fruit with a hint of smoke and gamey meat. There are some spicy Pauillac elements behind it though. Less aromatic on the palate but very bold and structured here. In fact it seems quite inexpressive in the mouth although there is an attractive combination of gritty substance and gentle tannic structure. Perhaps just a little more relaxed and diffuse than I would really like. Closed? A difficult one to call. From a tasting of 2008 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15-16+?/20 (October 2010)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2008: Sweet, crystalline, cherry fruit with a dark character and also a little toast. The palate is rounded, seamless but firm; there is a little note of oiliness to it too. Lots of meat here, good fruit, not particularly vibrant but certainly dense. Polished, but not as bright or vigorous as some. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2009)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2007: This has quite an unusual nose, in that it is bright, open and evocative, and yet despite that the fruit profile it presents is not the perfumed, red fruit character that some of the better, more elegant wines possess. It has a more solid feel, although it is only slightly more heavily built than the competition. In fact, as I return to it, I find it more and more convincing. There is both definition and depth suggested here, but with a fruit profile appropriate for the vintage. The palate has a supple start, and builds more structure and substance into the middle of the wine, showing good depth and with bright acids and well hidden tannins. There is a slightly stony detachment on the palate though, possessing a reticent form rather than one more warm or welcoming, but overall I find this quite appealing. From a 2007 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 14.5/20 (November 2011)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2007: Firm and nutty oak on the nose here, and very reserved fruit. A leanly composed palate, and what substance exists is easily overshadowed by the firm core of tannins within. It is the same powerful grip I noted en primeur. Overdone, with lean fruit, and a short finish. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 13.5+/20 (October 2009)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2007: Lots of sweet and nutty oak on the nose here, and some spiced plum fruit. It has an appealing presence on the palate, a very gentle style, and not a lot of vigour or direction. There is quite some grip behind it though. The concentration isn't particularly impressive. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 13-14+/20 (April 2008)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2006: Red and glossy. An expressive nose, attractive fruit here, very red in character, fresh but broad in terms of presence, appealing with a deep, roasted fruit character. With a dark and savoury substance to it, this is very easy to appreciate. It has a rich substance on the palate, broad, quite tangible in terms of texture, with a pleasing and yet lightly-perfumed character to the flesh. Underneath there is a good frame for the wine, well hidden although the tannins are firm and upright. Nice acidity, overall giving it a very charming style. This is a really good vintage for Lunch-Bags. From a 2006 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 17+/20 (November 2010)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2005: Deep, slightly smoky, rather dusty dried red-fruit character here. Perfumed too, fairly bright and lifted. A gently composed palate, elegant, with a gentle presence of fruit, good structure beneath, perhaps a slight coarseness to it but the tannins are at least ripe. Soft but with grip, slightly prominent alcohol at one point, and a touch of heat too, but there are certainly some good points here. It would be good to reassess in a few years to see where this goes; I suspect it will be very good though. From a 2005 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 16.5-17+?/20 (November 2009)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2005: This has a slightly smoky nose, with a wealth of pure, nicely directed, quite fine fruit. There is a similarly high quality of dense but nicely composed fruit on the palate, with well covered tannins at the core, which show through a little on the midpalate. It has a rather large, chewy style, belying its big, structured character. But there is a decent frame of acidity too. Very good indeed, with fine potential. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17.5+/20 (October 2007)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2004: Pure and stony fruit on the nose of this wine, with classic blackcurrant tones and a polished stone-pebble character mingling with notes of exotic fruits and toasty oak. The same style is found on the palate; elegantly polished forest fruits, nicely covered structure, good ripe tannins and a creamy, broad, mouth-filling finish. Very good indeed. From a 2004 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 17+/20 (November 2008)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2004: An appealing nose, exotically spiced, with good depth of character. Rather svelte tannins early on to say the least, and a nicely composed, creamy texture. Through the midpalate seems firmer, more traditional, although they are well covered. This could be excellent, but will need to lie in the cellar for some time. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 17+/20 (October 2006)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2003: A nice, nutty, macerated fruit nose, although not the most expressive. Nice, cool style on entry, well structured with ripe and supple tannins, again nicely knitted into the fruit and texture. Dark fruit flavour profile. Sadly acidity rather on the low side. Will make good mid-term drinking though. From my 2003 Bordeaux assessment. 16+/20 (October 2005)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 2001: Dark, smoky, nutty fruit on the nose. Lovely! Full textured palate. Ripe tannins with good acidity. Still has a youthful structure. Seems a touch exotic at present but this will go as it will close down soon. Needs eight years plus in the cellar. This is very good and has super potential. 16.5+/20 (May 2004)

Blanc de Lynch-Bages (Bordeaux) 1999: A pale golden hue. It has a lovely, complex nose, initially showing wet stones, golden fruits and lemon pastry, but later a greater depth of flavour with pineapple and marzipan. On the palate it is fresh and medium bodied, with a bitter twist behind the stony, mineral-laden fruit. My only concern is that it seems a little dilute, but with air in the glass - and I suspect time in the bottle - it fleshes out. With time, in fact, it shows a good texture, and is nicely balanced. Plenty of spice and an almost creamy lemon pie note on the finish. Approachable now, but really needs another year or two. 17/20 (October 2003)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 1998: A very reserved fruit character on the nose at present, still showing some youthful linearity, and some dense, maturing, but tightly presented fruit. Rather iron-clad style, tight but with some good sweetness too. A broad density on the palate, plenty of substance, with huge, spicy, liquorice-tinged tannins behind the dark fruit. Impressive. Approachable now but it gives the feeling that it is still very much on the way up. Tasted over dinner in Bordeaux. 17.5+/20 (March 2010)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 1998: There is a dense wealth of black fruits on the nose here. Delicious presence on the palate, with superb balance, combined with rich extract and an exotic edge to the flavour. Quite some development since my last tasting two years ago, but needs three to four more years in the cellar to show its best. 17+/20 (November 2003)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 1998: Clean and smoky blackcurrant fruit on the nose here, which follows through on the palate as a smooth, elegant layer of primary fruit flavour. Wonderful structure, with great tannins and acidity suggesting great ageing potential. Needs eight years. 17+/20 (November 2001)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 1997: Another advanced, mature colour. An initially exciting nose, with exotic Asian spices, black beans and sweet roasted plums - but these aromas quickly dissipate, leaving something fairly dull. Full and rounded texture on the palate, with some fruit. Spicy tannins and low acidity. Good length. One of the better wines of the tasting. From a 1997 Bordeaux tasting. 14/20 (February 2003)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 1975: Seems off on the nose. Dominated by aromas of oxidation, with a hint of beef extract alongside. The palate is dead. No flavour, just a rounded texture and a spice edge. Over the hill. From a 1975 Bordeaux tasting. Not rated. (August 2002)

Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) 1961: A lovely depth of colour here, quite a youthful appearance for a wine now in its fifth decade. The nose has an attractive, smoky, minerally, iron and blood character, with complex nuances of roast lamb, eucalyptus and coffee. The palate is full, slightly chalky, but with a good texture nevertheless. Rather firm, with some good grip, a really nice presence on the palate overall. A lovely, complete wine. Very good indeed. From a 1961 Bordeaux tasting. 17.5/20 (June 2007)