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Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse

As I have discussed in my profile of Grand-Puy-Lacoste, these two viticultural entities sprang forth from a larger estate which existed during the Middle Ages in the northern parts of the commune around Pauillac. Thus much of the words written here, concerning the early history of this estate, are also to be found in my profile on Grand-Puy-Lacoste. The original estate incorporated the Grand Puy, one of the many gravel croupes which are a feature of the Haut-Médoc, and which often provide the perfect terroir for Cabernet, and as a consequence they have an association with many of the greatest estates of the region. The Grand Puy, puy being another of the seemingly endless litany of words which refer to a hill or mound, lies a few kilometres inland of the town of Pauillac, and the soil that lay on it five centuries ago belonged to a Monsieur de Guiraud. He had two daughters, one of whom married a gentleman named Dejean, and the estate seems to have been passed down this line. From here it passed to their son, Bertrand, and it was possibly during his tenure that the estate was divided, giving rise to the two Grand-Puy estates that exist today. Dejean was a fairly wealthy landowner, buying and selling land; he owned the nearby Lynch-Bages as well as the vineyards on the Grand Puy. In 1750 he passed some of the latter vineyards to Pierre Ducasse, a creditor, and common sense would suggest that this was the origin of Grand-Puy-Ducasse. What remained with the Dejean family, subsequently inherited by one of his daughters, was the origin of Grand-Puy-Lacoste.

Over the years that followed the two properties existed independently, each ranked accordingly, with some classifications, such as Wilhelm Franck's, which he drew up in 1845, placing Lacoste ahead of Ducasse, although in the 1855 classification both were ranked as cinquièmes crus. Nevertheless, the sentiment that Lacoste leads Ducasse is one that seems to have carried through to modern times, as it is the former that is frequently touted as an over-performer and candidate for promotion, whereas no such compliments are paid to the latter. During the late 19th and early 20th century there was the now familiar sequence of phylloxera, oidium, war and depression, and for decades since the wines never seem to have excelled. By the opening of the 20th century, the estate had already passed to the Deroy de Suduiraut family, a branch of the Suduiraut family better known for their activities in Sauternes. The estate was subsequently acquired by Mestrezat, which has since been amalgamated into the Cordier-Mestrezat firm of négociants. Here it forms part of a small portfolio of top estates also including Meyney and Rayne-Vigneau. Over the years there have been many interested parties, including the Merlaut family, better known for their revitalisation of estates such as Gruaud-Larose, Chasse-Spleen, Citran, Ferrière, La Gurgue and Haut-Bages-Liberal. They purchased a substantial share in Mestrezat in 1970, a year before they acquired Grand-Puy-Ducasse and Rayne-Vigneau. More recently, a significant share was held by Vignerons de Val d'Orbieu, a leading Languedoc co-operative, but in 2004 they relinquished their share and Cordier-Mestrezat saw some fresh and seemingly much needed investment from the French bank Crédit Agricole. This famous French financial institution acquired more than 400 hectares of vineyards, including Ducasse, in exchange for 95 million Euros.

The vineyards of Grand-Puy-Ducasse now amount to over 30 hectares, with the area, originally 10 hectares when under the direction of Ducasse, having more than trebled since the acquisition of the estate by Cordier-Mestrezat. They purchased a 10 hectare plot of fifteen year old vines, and a 10 hectare plot of old vines, and thus today the vineyards lie mainly in three different sections. Those to the north lie close to the Mouton and Lafite vineyards, there are those around the Grand-Puy to the west of Pauillac, and there are some to the south close to the Batailley vineyards. Of note is the 18th century château, which unusually is located near the quay in Pauillac itself, rather than out among the vines. The terroir is typically deep gravel over limestone bedrock, and the varieties are 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot planted at about 10000 vines/ha. Under the ownership of Cordier-Mestrezat there has been some investment in the cellars, with a renovation of the chai in the 1980s and the introduction of stainless steel the following decade. Once harvested by hand, the fruit is fermented in steel, and sees a maceration of up to three weeks, with pumping over twice every day to submerge the cap. The process is overseen by Bernard Monteau, with consultation from Denis Dubourdieu. Once done, the wine will go into oak, up to 40% new each vintage, for up to 18 months. The grand vin is Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse (18000 cases per annum) and there are two second labels, Château Artigues-Arnaud, named after a Ducasse ancestor, and Prélude à Grand-Puy Ducasse (about 2000 cases per annum).

I have only tasted a couple of vintages of Grand-Puy-Ducasse in recent years, but have had two stabs at the 2004 within a year or two of the vintage. I was impressed, as it showed very well on each occasion, with my second tasting a little more convincing than the first (when it was up against some stiff competition at the annual UGC tasting). If such successes are repeated, perhaps reflecting new investment by Crédit Agricole, Grand-Puy-Ducasse may well garner a reputation as an estate turning out tasty, good value wines. As such, perhaps it can replace those estates which once held such a reputation, but which are now simply priced too high? (6/4/07)

Contact details:
Address: Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse, 33250 Pauillac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 11 29 00
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 11 29 01
Internet: www.cordier-wines.com
GPS: 45.199863, -0.746571

Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse - Tasting Notes

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Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse (Pauillac) 2010: The blend here is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, a very high concentration of the latter for the commune. It is much less concentrated at the rim than Grand-Puy-Lacoste, which I tasted alongside. It still has a very bright and vibrant hue though. The fruit quality certainly has a seductive tone to it, with a rather plump and creamy character, laced with a little grainy soot, but overall it has a very flattering style. With subsequent tastes it becomes increasingly sooty and smoky on the palate though, this characteristic rather dominating the fruit, and the tannins soon start to dominate too. They come across as rather inky and extracted, and there is a big chewy finish in keeping with this. Having discovered the assemblage, I think I know why this might be. All the same, for the estate in question, a good wine. From my Bordeaux 2010 primeurs assessment. 15-16/20 (April 2011)

Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse (Pauillac) 2009: There is sweet and almost confected red fruit on the nose here, with suggestions of cola alongside the macerated cherry and blackberry character. It is slightly herbal too, with a touch of blackberry leaf to it. A fleshy palate, showing peppery grip through the middle, and plenty of incisive acidity, although it seems short of fruit character at the moment. The finish is marked by structure rather than character. To me it feels rather flat and forced. From a tasting of 2009 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15.5/20 (October 2011)

Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse (Pauillac) 2009: This wine has a vibrant, cherry-red hue with a bluish rim. On the nose I find some dark but crunchy-crystalline fruit, with notes of tar alongside. The palate shows rather overt alcohol over a layer of soft fruit. There is a lot of tingly grip here, lots of firm tannin too, with a very domineering character. Soft acidity. I find this lacks the finesse demanded by my palate, and is over-extracted. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 14.5-15.5+/20 (March 2010)

Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse (Pauillac) 2008: Rather anonymous fruit here, spicy, crushed red-back fruits with elements of black pepper. Rather a bold texture on entry, a shell of substance, without a lot of flesh within, not showing a lot of fruit but showing plenty of structure. Lots of grip, lots of spice too, and rather a hot fruit finish. Broad, a touch over-worked, with more heat than I would like. Not very convincing. From a tasting of 2008 Bordeaux at two years of age. 14-14.5/20 (October 2010)

Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse (Pauillac) 2008: Black fruit on the nose here, a touch of rich cherry, but it also seems a little vegetal too? A very firm composition on the palate, with lots of substance and brawny character. Broad but raw, showing a lot of acid and some background tannin. It all seems very loose-knit. A lesser wine this year. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 14.5-15.5+/20 (April 2009)

Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse (Pauillac) 2007: There are some unusual aromatics here, reminiscent of sweet, cola-like confectionery, a slightly vegetal aroma which I often naturally associate with the use of rather less-than-ripe fruit. This character comes through on the palate too, where there are notes of aubergine and green vegetables. This is rather more reminiscent of ratatouille than I was expecting. Perhaps the two would be a good match? Overall the fruit profile does not appeal to me, which is a shame as the structure on the palate seems to have a very decent definition, with only moderately firm acids and nice if rather chewy-in-the-finish tannins. A disappointment as this showed better two years ago. From a 2007 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 12.5/20 (November 2011)

Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse (Pauillac) 2007: Tasted en primeur, the sample seemed charcoaly and sharply unbalanced. Was it just faulty? This seems better; nicely perfumed violet fruit on the nose, with lightly honeyed oak, these two elements working well together. A soft and supple entry, somewhat unknit, but with ripe tannins and a soft texture, a touch lean but with some substance. The tannins are still quite obvious, with a chalky character, but overall this is at least approachable. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15.5+/20 (October 2009)

Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse (Pauillac) 2007: The fruit here is very well hidden under a layer of charry oak, but there is a nice sweetness to it. On the palate, though, there is a lot of extract apparent and it seems rather hard to me as a result. The midpalate throws out a rather bitter, sharp, needling character. I think this has been over-worked. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 12-13+/20 (April 2008)

Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse (Pauillac) 2005: This is dense and rather reserved, and is showing some nutty oak and dense fruit on the nose, but it is a little muted compared to some of its peers. It has a lighter, elegant style, fresh and crisp, with a fine balance. The composition is good, but the flavours are well hidden today, as was noted with the aromatics on the nose. Could be good but difficult to judge at present. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16-17+/20 (October 2007)

Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse (Pauillac) 2004: A good, deep colour, showing an attractive concentration right out to the rim. Deep, fruit-filled nose, with some nutty oak still. This has appeal. Full with an admirable weight on the palate, still with a lot of primary fruit and a nice grip. Fresh, but with lots of texture, and certainly stylish. A really nicely judged composition, with good balance. I feel even more positive about this wine than I did last year; this is a real success for Grand-Puy-Ducasse. 17+/20 (February 2007)

Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse (Pauillac) 2004: A forward nose showing some appealing, red fruit character. Rather creamy style, although with quite prominent tannins which transect the wine on the palate. Firm acidity. Overall a lot of structure showing here, although there is a good presence of fruit too, and it certainly has texture. I think it will hold together. From the Bordeaux 2004 UGC tasting. 16.5+/20 (October 2006)

Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse (Pauillac) 1996: A dense and glossy purple wine. The nose has captivating aromas of roasted meats and tarry fruit. A full bodied impression on the palate, roundly textured, with big, firm tannins. There's an austere edge to the flavour profile, which has touches of dried, roasted meats and beef extract. Correct acidity. Needs 3-4 years. From a 1996 Bordeaux tasting. 16.5+/20 (October 2002)