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Chateau d'Armailhac

Chateau d'Armailhac has a complicated history, not least because proprietors seem to be persistently undecided as to what the property should be called. For the moment they have settled on d'Armailhac, reflecting the origins of the estate, which seems fitting, and I imagine that this name will now endure. It was Dominique d'Armailhacq who created the estate, having purchased the vineyard from Nicolas-Alexandre de Ségur, the so called Prince des Vignes, sometime between 1718 and 1740. The Marquis de Ségur sold his Pauillac vineyards to three men; those to the north were sold to Joseph de Brane, and these were to be Brane-Mouton, today known as Mouton-Rothschild. Those to the south were acquired by François de Pontet, and today these are Pontet-Canet. Those in-between came to Dominique, and these vineyards were to become the d'Armailhac that we know today. Following his acquisition, Dominique expanded the estate, and his acquisitions included the buildings at Chateau Brane-Mouton. Clearly not one to let a marketing opportunity pass by, Dominique duly renamed his estate Chateau Mouton-d'Armailhacq. Of the vineyards acquired, perhaps the most significant was the Carruades croupe, one of the better sites in the commune of Pauillac. Mouton d'Armailhacq was clearly an estate to be reckoned with, although records suggest that it still languished in the shadows of its more illustrious neighbours.

Over the ensuing years the estate passed from one family member to the next - although often by some rather bizarre routes - contracting and expanding as it did so, as vineyards were either sold off or acquired. After Dominique the estate came to his successors, two brothers, one of whom was Odet d'Armailhacq. These two were not seemingly as astute as Dominique, and by 1843 they were forced to sell the estate as a result of financial difficulties consequent upon the imposition of tariff barriers affecting the export of the wines. Odet sold the estate, only for it to be purchased by his estranged wife, who held her own fortune, in 1844. Upon completion of the deal, she immediately sold the Carruades croupe in order to ease the financial burden, selling the vineyard to Chateau Lafite. The estate duly passed to her son, Armand d'Armailhacq, who was an instrumental figure in improving quality at Chateau d'Armailhac, and across Bordeaux as a region. His thoughts were put down in his book La Culture des Vignes dans le Médoc; he was a strong advocate for the use of Cabernet Sauvignon over other Bordeaux varieties such as Petit Verdot and Malbec, of better care in the vineyard and modern practices in the chai. His efforts were rewarded in 1855, when the property was ranked as a cinquième cru in the 1855 classification of the Médoc. The property continued to flourish, but with the advent of the 20th century times were hard, as they were for all Bordeaux, and all France. After Armand's death the business was run by brother-in-law Comte Adrien de Ferrand, until his descendent Roger sold the estate, together with his recently created négociant business, to Baron Philippe de Rothschild in 1933.

Baron Philippe changed the name of d'Armailhacq to Mouton-Baron-Philippe, and the name of the négociant business to Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA; this latter acquisition allowed the development of new lines, including a generic Bordeaux which today is one of the most widely recognised Bordeaux brands in the world, Mouton Cadet, initially a route by which Baron Philippe sold off the wines of the unsuccessful 1930, 1931 and 1932 vintages. Under Philippe's direction the chateau - a strange affair, never fully completed and so looking like half a house - was renovated, and the vineyards replanted. With this latter action the area covered by vines actually fell, starting off at 75 hectares, but reaching a sorry low of just 32 hectares by 1960. The chai, long overdue for renovation, was finally renewed in 1968, with two storeys, the fruit of the harvest accepted onto the upper level before making its way towards the fermentation vats. By 1976 plantings were up again, with continued investment by the Rothschilds, but by now it was time for another name change; Philippe wanted Chateau Baronne-Pauline, out of respect for his deceased wife, but permission was not granted. Philippe settled for Mouton-Baronne-Philippe, nothing more than a change of gender. Although these changes were signs of great sentiment, the whole process only served to confuse. The subsequent decision by Philippe's daughter, Philippine, who now heads the family business, to revert to Chateau d'Armailhac (dropping the 'q' at the end) was a most sensible one.

Today the property comprises 50 ha of land under vine, with more being planted, so the expansion of the late 20th century continues. There are three principle vineyards, including the 26 hectare Plateau des Levantines et de L'Obélisque, an extension of the Carruades croupe, where gravel reigns supreme, the 19 hectare Plateau de Petit Pibran, which has soils of sand and chalk over a limestone base, and Le Croupe de Béhéré, 5 hectares of light gravel up to three metres deep in places. They are planted at a density of 8500 vines/ha, with 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, with an average age of 47 years, although some sections of the vineyard are easily a century old. Tending the vineyards and making the wine is down to the team at Mouton-Rothschild. Fermentation temperatures are allowed to rise quite high, blending follows malolactic fermentation, and the wine spends 16 months en barrique, of which about 30% are new, the remainder being old Mouton barrels. The result is Chateau d'Armailhac (typically 22000 cases per annum) and as with Clerc-Milon, there is no second wine.

Chateau d'Armailhac is perhaps the least well known Bordeaux property in the Rothschild portfolio. The style is a little different to the other wines; it is certainly less masculine than Clerc-Milon, perhaps because of the greater proportion of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, a blend which can allow the wine to excel in vintages when others may not. A case in point is the 1999, a superb wine in a good but not superlative vintage. Unfortunately, the wine is not perhaps such good value as it once was, due to recognition of the increased quality in recent years. (10/2/05, updated 20/3/07)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, 33250 Pauillac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 73 20 20
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 73 20 44
Internet: www.bpdr.com

Chateau d'Armailhac - Tasting Notes

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Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 60%, Merlot 24%, Cabernet Franc 14%, Petit Verdot 2%. Good colour although not the most concentrated. Really exuberant black cherry fruit on the nose, quite broad and firm in style rather than sweet or soft, although it is certainly ripe. Very well judged density on the kick-off, with a bolder midpalate, very deeply polished tannins, providing a delicious, savoury frame for the fruit which has a deeply flavoursome character with a juicy edge. Rather supple, with good acidity cutting through the middle, although it is balanced by all the fruit and substance. Lovely. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17.5-18.5+/20 (March 2010)

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 2008: A fairly dark and concentrated nose, with a wealth of dense, crunchy, crystalline black fruits. Lovely fruit expression on the palate, redolent of raspberries and cream. Broad and textured, supple, refined but fresh. An impressive wine dripping in style. Like its stablemate Clerc-Milon, this may warrant a higher score in future. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 2007: Not so expressive as some of the other wines here, with a very low level of reserved fruit. A rather lean style on the palate, it has freshness but that is at the expense of a stony, even steely texture. Red fruits and a very light presence in the mouth. A touch hollow too. The primeur samples were better than this. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 13.5+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 2007: Good plummy fruit on the nose here, quite full and expressive, and a little firmer than the corresponding barrel sample of Clerc-Milon. Supple, with classic structure underneath. An appealing composition, firm acidity. This is a wine with some potential. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 2006: A very organic nose, notes of iodine, with dense fruit underneath, and aromas of creamy vanilla. A dry palate, just moderate flesh to it, with a lot of tannic grip. With only moderate fruit to match, this is a rather classically styled wine with a slightly bitter finish. Not as giving on the palate as the nose perhaps suggested. From a tasting of 2006 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15.5+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 2005: Wonderful nose, exotic fruit, although with plenty of toasty oak still apparent. Dark, rich but certainly still vibrant. An elegantly styled palate, harmoniously put together, with some very fine tannins and a fine, gentle texture overlying it all. Good fruit, firm substance at the core, and overall this has a very good combination of elements. And an appealingly ripe and grippy finish too. This certainly has some fine potential for the future. From a 2005 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 18+/20 (November 2009)

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 2005: There are some deliciously lively aromatics here, this wine possessing a pure, crunchy, slightly smoky redcurrant and cranberry nose. It is very finely composed on the palate, with a very ripe and rounded nature, and with plenty of substance despite the crisp character of the nose. This firm, meaty presence of fruit is wrapped around a core of delightfully ripe tannins. This has great potential. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17.5+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 2004: This has a really nice character on the nose, with quite classically styled dark fruit with a liquorice tone, showing a little early rather wild and complex character already. Nice weight, texture and depth on the palate. It is supple and rounded, truly very finely balanced, with ripe tannins appearing just before the finish and gentle acidity. This has lots of potential for the future. From a Bordeaux 2004 tasting. 16.5+/20 (November 2007)

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 2004: An appealing, rather crisp, red fruit nose here, with some rather obvious sweet oak showing alongside. A well composed, somewhat traditional structure, with some admittedly rather ripe, supple tannins which sit well with the fruit, which has a light feel to it. Moderate acidity. This should age well, but I much prefer the Clerc-Milon from this stable. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 16+/20 (October 2006)

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 2003: Another wine very typical of the vintage, with some dark, exotic, confit cherry fruit. A sweet and rounded texture on the palate, lots of extract, lots of depth, but lots of firm structure too. Big, impressive if you like the style. All the necessary components are here. It is a good showing for the vintage as it has a touch more balance than many, but will it last? 17+/20 (November 2006)

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 2001: Rather a surprising youthful character on the nose here, this wine still demonstrating a vein of oak even at this age. The palate is very nicely done, though, a little meaty, with some crisp fruit and hints of emerging complexity. All the components are nicely balanced although I find the tannins rather firm. Will make for good drinking though. 16.5+/20 (November 2006)

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 1999: Youthful colour. Obvious and attractive youth on the nose, brimming over with coffee, tarry treacle toffee and blackcurrant aromas. Full palate, with coffee notes again, and firm, fresh acidity. Intense and concentrated, with pure black fruits and ripe, firm tannins. Voluptuous and seductive. Delicious, with lovely potential. A tremendous effort for this vintage. Needs five years but should be beautiful when mature. 17.5+/20 (February 2005)

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 1994: Some maturity on the colour. Meaty and menthol again, a little sooty, with some dark black fruits. Not as giving on the nose as the other two wines here. A full, moderately fleshy palate, underpinned by very firm, drying tannins and concentrated fruit. Develops a rich svelteness with time, with rose-petal and tar nuances. Certainly has some charm so it's a good result for this vintage. 16.5+/20 (February 2005)

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 1992: This has a promising density of colour, still with a youthful, red-purple appearance. Typically Pauillac on the nose, with a mineral and graphite edge to the blackcurrant fruit. On the palate a surprising level of extract, which provides some good curranty flavours. Nevertheless it cannot hide the somewhat dilute, thin body of the wine, reflecting the difficult vintage conditions. With soft tannins and low acidity it strikes a good balance, although as you would expect from a weak vintage it has a very short finish. Overall, though, this is charming, perhaps even elegant. 13.5/20 (October 2001)

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 1990: This is a dark, garnet red hue with a tawny rim. Quite closed on the nose, offering just hints of sweet, roasted fruits. Very nicely structured on the palate, tannins just in the finish. Lovely roundness, rich texture, complete, with sweet and spicy fruits. Firm rather than lush. Drinking well now. From a 1990 Bordeaux horizontal tasting. 17/20 (May 2003)

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 1989: Mature colour. Menthol and spice, meaty-iron nose. Full, meaty palate with some spicy tannins and firm acidity. Round, fleshy texture. Great purity of mature flavour. Lovely drinking now, certainly ready, but there is still some structure and the necessary texture and acid to further improve in the cellar. Drink now and over the next ten years. 16.5/20 (February 2005)