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Château Mouton-Rothschild

The uninitiated, turning up to taste the latest vintage at one of the left bank's first growth estates, might expect something a little special, a little different to all the classed growths one or more rungs down the 1855 ladder. Indeed, for any acolyte of the wines of Bordeaux, such visits are special; a chance to see the vines and cellars for yourself, and perhaps even to meet the winemaking team. And the wines should - especially when one considers the prices now asked for these bottles - also deliver just that little bit more. But to expect other extravagances is perhaps to court disappointment. Gaining entry to Latour, even with an appointment, can be an ordeal likened to trying to break into a high-security jail. Waiting to taste Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion at the latter of these two estates feels like sitting in the queue for the confessional, such is the ecclesiastical nature of this domaine. In contrast Margaux is often open and welcoming, the showman Paul Pontallier always ready to enthuse about the wines, often in the company of Corrine Mentzelopoulos, whereas at Lafite the tasting always feels rather perfunctory, even more so if the venue is moved down the road to the warehouse at Duhart-Milon.

But if you want extravagance, it is to Mouton-Rothschild that you should come, as I discovered when tasting at the château for the first time. Fine art adorns the waiting room, alongside ancient statuary (like that shown left). No need to walk to the tasting room, let the staff whisk you over there in their golf buggies, about which I wrote in my account of my Bordeaux 2009 Top Ten selection (perhaps with more than a modicum of poetic license). Revel in the decadence of your surroundings, golden sculptures and giant gilt-framed mirrors, and of course Baroness Philippine holding court for those with the right connections. And let us not forget the wines (they are why we are here, after all), opulently seductive, full of Mouton spice, just like their very surroundings. Some of course will see it as gaudy and brash, a presentation lacking the decorum of a real premier grand cru classé, a reference to Mouton's elevation from second to first growth by ministerial decree in 1973, 118 years after the classification was drawn up.

But I like the staging of it all; it is fun and outgoing, perhaps less sacerdotal than some of Mouton's peers. And besides, who can resist a ride on a turbo-charged electric vehicle, gravel spitting from its wildly spinning rear wheels as you career past the vines of a Pauillac first growth, even if the driver is intent on your assassination (dressed up as an innocent buggy-related misadventure), in order to prevent you from going on to taste Latour? Errr....well, I did say there was some poetic license involved, didn't I?

Mouton-Rothschild: A History

Researching the very early history of the Mouton-Rothschild estate is rather like peering into a murky pool; there is nothing untoward, but information from before the 18th century is rather sparse. Like many local estates it seems that in the pre-viticultural days it was in the ownership of a local seigneurie, in this case the Pons de Castillon, a knight who was in residence here as early as 1311. It was subsequently confiscated from this family and in the early 15th century was gifted to the Duke of Gloucester, younger brother to the English Regent, Henry V. Following the defeat of the English that marked the end of the Hundred Years' War, however, the estate (along with the rest of Bordeaux) came to the French, in this particular case the Foix family. Over the ensuing centuries the estate had a number of owners, and was, albeit briefly, once part of the awe-inspiring Ségur estate (which also included Lafite, Latour and Calon-Ségur, and this was just a small portion of it), following its purchase by the Prince of Vines, otherwise known as Nicolas-Alexandre de Ségur, in 1718.

Mouton and Viticulture

It was in the early 18th century that viticulture became a part of life on the Mouton estate, and the history becomes a little less cloudy. Joseph de Brane, who purchased the seigneurie of the Barony of Mouton from the Ségur family in 1720, found himself the new owner of a small vineyard but no significant buildings (other than a few farm buildings), as these had been sold to Dominique Armailhacq, proprietor of what is now Château d'Armailhac; he was quick to take advantage of Mouton's cachet by renaming his own estate Mouton-Armailhacq. Joseph renamed his new acquisition Brane-Mouton, and he set to work on the vineyard; this was the beginning of the Mouton-Rothschild that we know today. Under the tenure of the de Brane family, the reputation of Mouton grew; records show that although prices lagged behind those for Lafite and Latour by some considerable distance, by the late 18th century they were on a par with those for wines from other respected vineyards such as Pichon. This state of affairs continued into the next century, and had it continued it seems likely that Mouton would have swept into place as one of the five first growths in the 1855 classification. But this was not to be, and although it is now impossible to state categorically why Mouton was ranked as only a second growth, there are probably a number of contributing factors.

The proprietor in the early 19th century was Joseph de Brane's grandson, Hector, but in 1830 he decided to concentrate his efforts on Château de Gorse (which became the Brane-Cantenac of today), and he sold the Mouton part of his estate to a Parisian banker, Isaac Thuret, for the princely sum of 1.2 million French francs. This change of hands may have had a major impact on the estate's ranking, as Thuret remained in Paris, the Mouton estate managed by a local négociant in his absence. There was, after all, no château to provide him with a suitable residence on the estate. Perhaps unsurprisingly under the tenure of an absentee landlord, Mouton began to fall into a state of disrepair; in the years immediately preceding the 1855 classification, for the impending Exposition Universelle de Paris, the vineyards were in a sorry state, and there was a rampant epidemic of oidium. Eventually, in 1853, Thuret sold the estate at a loss, taking just 1.125 million francs from its new owner, a member of the Rothschild banking family. Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild was another absentee proprietor who nevertheless soon began to turn things around at Mouton, regaining lost ground, with the employment of Théodore Galos as estate manager perhaps instrumental in this.

But it was too little, too late for the classification. The members of the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce were under pressure, at the behest of Emperor Napoleon III, to produce a ranking of the top Bordeaux estates for the exhibition, which they did based on price. Despite the ignominy of the Thuret years, the prices around the time of the classification were strong, matching other first growths in 1854 and again in 1858, but clearly this alone was insufficient. Perhaps the lack of a grand château had some influence, or maybe the fact that Mouton was now in foreign hands - Nathaniel was of the English branch of the family - counted against it. Most likely, it was that the first tier was already long decided; there were four accepted first growths, Lafite, Latour, Haut-Brion and Margaux, and it was not the business of the négociants to place an upstart alongside these illustrious names. And so Mouton was ranked second, despite the wines being sufficiently pricy to suggest that this should not be so. Under the tenure of the Rothschild family, however, quality continued to improve, and within a few decades it seemed clear to most that an error had been made.

Nathaniel, James, Henri & Philippe

Baron Nathaniel concentrated on viticulture, utilising the farm buildings and outhouses to make the wine at what was now Mouton-Rothschild. After his death in 1870 it was his son, Baron James, that had a small château constructed; its name, Le Petit Mouton, is now synonymous with that of Mouton's second wine. At last there was somewhere to live on the property, but sadly not for James, who died the following year, at the tender age of 37 years. The estate passed first to his widow, Laura Thérèse, and then to his son Henri Rothschild, a doctor, artist, playwright and racing driver, who perhaps unsurprisingly had little time to devote to Mouton. It was his second son, Philippe Rothschild, that took an interest in the property, assuming control in 1922; he had been evacuated to Mouton during the Great War, and clearly felt at home there, despite the absence of amenities we today take for granted, such as running water, electricity and roads. Although he did not gain sole ownership until 1947 when, upon the death of his father, he bought out his brother's and sister's shares, it was under Philippe's tenure in 1922 that the great changes began at Mouton.

Philippe, like his father, was an engaging all-rounder who shared his passion for motor-racing, but also tried his hand at the theatre, poetry, sailing and even film production. But it was at Mouton where he found his true calling I think. During his 65 years he revolutionised winemaking in Bordeaux; one of his first actions was to change to domaine bottling, rather than selling the wine in barrel, as was the norm not only here but throughout all Bordeaux. It was a massive undertaking; new buildings were required, and the architect Charles Siclis was commissioned to design the new chai de première année, where the wine would be housed after fermentation but prior to bottling. But there were definite benefits; a bottle bearing a Mouton label, starting with the 1924 vintage, would be seen as a guarantee of quality from the château, and within half a century, especially following the Cruse scandal of the 1970s, domaine bottling would become the norm throughout the region. The first label (above) was designed by cubist Jean Carlu, and was signed by Philippe himself. For the next few decades there were only a few modifications, otherwise it remained essentially unchanged, except for 1938, 1939 and 1940 when it went unsigned; Philippe was not there to mark the labels when the wine was bottled. Having been imprisoned in Vichy at the start of World War II, he then escaped to England; his wife, Vicomtesse Chambure, was less fortunate. She died in a concentration camp in 1945.

Philippe also acquired new vineyards and developed new wines, starting with the bottling of the weak 1927 vintage as Carruades de Mouton-Rothschild rather than as the grand vin; he also purchased neighbouring Mouton-Armailhacq in 1933, the property being renamed Mouton-Baron-Philippe. Carruades became Mouton Cadet, and for many years it was the product of the young vines of these two estates. Today it is a global brand, this and other wines being marketed by the négociant firm Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA, also established by Philippe.

The Post-War Years

Following the end of the war Philippe regained control of his estate, it having served as a military headquarters with barracks used by German troops, the product of the vineyard having been bottled under the direct supervision of Goering himself. Repairs were needed and duly undertaken, but there was still, despite Philippe's personal tragedy, a need to celebrate the long awaited arrival of peace. At Mouton, a new label was commissioned, featuring a V for Victory design created by artist Philippe Jullian. This was the beginning of a new feature, unique to Mouton, as Philippe continued with a newly commissioned label every year thereafter. There was originally an intent, onetime Mouton director Hervé Berland once told me, to commemorate the most significant event of the year on the label, but in 1948 this was undoubtedly the death of Gandhi, a subject matter felt to be inappropriate. And so the focus became the artist rather than the event, and this remains the case today. Details of all the fabulous labels of Mouton-Rothschild since the 1945 vintage (some of which can be glimpsed on the bottles shown above), which have showcased work by Dali, Bacon and Warhol, among others - all of whom received five cases of the current vintage and five cases of older vintages as payment - are given here.

Philippe's other great achievement was the righting of what he termed the "monstrous injustice" of Mouton's second growth status. For years the labels stated simply Premier ne puis, second ne daigne, Mouton suis, or 'First I cannot be, second I do not deign to be, I am Mouton". It was clear from the great vintages produced in the 1860s and 1870s that the 1855 classification was already outdated, and that change was long overdue. But no such review of this classification will ever take place, and it was only thanks to the tireless campaigning of Philippe that Jacques Chirac, then Minister of Agriculture, passed a decree conferring the status of first growth upon Mouton-Rothschild in 1973. At last the wrong had been righted, and from then on Mouton's labels bore a new inscription, Premier je suis, second je fus. Mouton ne change, or "First I am, second I was. Mouton does not change".

In 1976 tragedy came once again for Philippe, with the death of his second wife, Pauline Fairfax-Potter, who he had married in 1954. She had been his companion since 1951, and they lived together in an apartment, sited in some converted haylofts and stables, aptly named Le Grand Mouton. Together they had created the Mouton art museum, collecting pieces from the world over, including some that went on to feature on the Mouton labels, and her death clearly had a huge and terrible impact on Philippe. He promptly put in a request to change the name of Mouton-Baron-Philippe to Mouton-Baronne-Pauline; this was denied, but the property was renamed Baronne-Philippe in her honour. It has since reverted to its original name, Armailhac. Philippe died in 1988, and since then it has been his daughter Baroness Philippine and his grandsons that run Mouton.

Mouton-Rothschild: The Vines and Wines

The Mouton vineyards incorporate 75 hectares of typical gravelly soil over a base of sand, clay, marl and limestone. They are situated on a mound or motte at an altitude of approximately 40 metres, dizzying heights for the flat and undulating land of the Medoc. It is widely thought that motte is the origin of the name Mouton, the local Bordeaux dialect providing us with as many words for mound, hill or hillock as there are perhaps fish in the Gironde. It does not derive, as some rather unkind individuals have postulated (I say unkind because the accusation brings rural, rustic tones), from the French for sheep, mouton, although this might be suggested by the grazing pasture that abuts the estate. The vines are 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, planted at a density of 8500 hectares, with an admirable average age of around 50 years. There is also Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle, for the estate's white wine. Once harvested, fermentation is in 225-hectolitre vats of wood, with a maceration of 15 to 25 days. Then comes up to 22 months in oak before bottling. The grand vin is Château Mouton-Rothschild, of which there are 25000 cases per annum, and the second wine Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild, introduced with the 1993 vintage (although the name Petit Mouton was only introduced the following year), and produced in only small quantities. The label for the second wine is another design by Jean Carlu, the man who was also behind the first ever Mouton label, for the 1924 vintage.

Processes in the cellar are overseen by Philippe Dhalluin, who thanks to a contract between the Rothschilds and the Baly family also supervises the cellars at Château Coutet. The managing director Hervé Berland would no doubt also have a say, but following news of his retirement in 2012 this role will now be filled by Hervé Goulin. As well as the red wines, this team also supervise the production of a lesser known white wine, Aile d'Argent. This is predominantly Sauvignon Blanc sourced from a 4-hectare vineyard, and again produced in small quantities, typically 1200 cases per annum. A concept that originated in the early 1990s, 1991 being the first vintage released, the literal translation of the name usually produces the phrase silver wing, which was the name of a magic teapot that was central to a children's story recounted by Baron Philippe Rothschild to his daughter, now Baroness Philippine, when she was a young girl. Whilst imprisoned during World War II the baron put the story onto paper, and it was subsequently published, under the title Aile d'Argent la Magique, in 1947. The wine is dominated by Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in oak which is 50% new each vintage, and then held in the barrels for nine months before bottling.

Mouton Opinion

My early experiences of Mouton-Rothschild, starting with just a couple of vintages, was not really favourable. The 1993 and 1994 were the first to pass my lips, and whereas the two wines were drinkable and on the way up, they did not provide the magical experience I looked for. Decent wines, certainly, but not premier league, not first growth quality, not for me at least; I know others speak more highly of them. But Mouton's reputation is considerable, even if the estate and the wines are not as well regarded by some as the other first growth properties, particularly the neighbours in Pauillac, Lafite and Latour. But the estate has turned out great wines, sometimes producing the wine of the vintage, and its position as a first growth is no doubt merited. Wines from the late 1940s, in the immediate post-war years, are legendary, and those being produced today are reputedly very much in the same vein. Many said that in 2006 Mouton made the wine of the vintage; my own tasting of it certainly puts it close to the top. But experience of other vintages, tasted long after my early encounters with the 1993 and 1994, have been magnificent. In particular I am thinking of 2005, 2000 and 1996; these are truly splendid wines and I doubt any sane individual would question Mouton's ranking on the basis of these three bottles.

If they do care to question Mouton's ranking, then let them take heed of this advice. They should perhaps keep these opinions to themselves, or at least only whisper them to their closest confidantes. If word gets out and they are spotted the next time they visit the estate they might just meet with a sticky end, in a tragic but sadly unpredictable high-speed incident, I suspect involving a golf buggy in dangerously wet weather. You have been warned! (2/1/07, updated 22/4/08, 7/10/10, 25/1/12)

Contact details:
Address: Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA, BP 117, 33250 Pauillac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 73 20 20
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 73 20 44
Internet: www.bpdr.com
GPS: 45.215329, -0.768448 (château), 45.213485, -0.76782 (parking)

Château Mouton-Rothschild - Tasting Notes

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Château Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac) 2010: An all-time record percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon here, which accounts for 94% of the blend in this vintage, with just 6% Merlot. It has a very polished, deep, glossy claret hue with a crimson rim. A very pure style of fruit on the nose, very lifted and expressive, more so than Lafite or Latour, showing a melange of cherries and blackcurrants with a creamy-sooty note at the edge. Very broad and sweetly seductive at the start of the palate, then in the middle suddenly slightly softer, relaxed, polished, with very fine-grained tannins coming in through the middle. These stay, giving a very fine polish to the finish of the wine. Although these tannins build in the middle, this polished layer of fruit never gives way. This has a typically alluring Mouton edge to it, with hints of Mouton spice, and is set to give bags of pleasure to Mouton fans - this should be a great Mouton and it has a very long life ahead of it. Having said that, it doesn't have the expressive force that I found in the 2009. But give it time. From my Bordeaux 2010 primeurs assessment. 17.5-18.5/20 (April 2011)

Petit Mouton (Pauillac) 2010: The second wine of Mouton. This is 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. Dark and very glossy on inspection. Rather a seductive character on the nose, with hints of dark plums. Rich, full of fruit, and very expressive. Rich plum character on the palate to match that on the nose, quite polished, with a substantial structure underneath. A rather substantial and broad presence here. Good polished fruit, a bold and strong-willed presence in the mouth, the tannins velvety although with a biting, chewy edge, and thankfully helped along by plenty of good acidity. A firm and tightening finish, with a long tannic length. From my Bordeaux 2010 primeurs assessment. 15.5-16.5/20 (April 2011)

Château Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac) 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 88%, Merlot 12%. Alcohol a very understated 13.1%. Like its stablemates also a deeply coloured but certainly not opaque wine, far from it. Very light blue tinge. The nose is a little reticent despite this sample having been decanted - not for long I should stress. A very linear attack of fruit on the nose, well honed with deep spice. On the palate it is the very svelte nature of the composition that impresses most, a tightly packed and silky layer of fruit coming first, before it slowly reveals a well-matched layer of ripe and delightfully grainy tannins beneath. Underneath it all a fine layer of acidity. Overall a very harmonious and yet richly composed wine, with all the necessary elements in place. It has more substance than Lafite, is more flashy and spicy, but with perhaps a less fine and direct definition, with a deeper layer of velvet hidden within its tannins. So broad and very pleasing on the palate, this is a superb and very typical Mouton that should please Mouton drinkers everywhere. The finish brings a surge of fruit, and it is very long indeed. I could hold this wine in my mouth forever if that were possible. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 19-19.5+/20 (March 2010)

Petit Mouton (Pauillac) 2009: The second wine of Mouton, of course. Cabernet Sauvignon 63%, Merlot 22%, Cabernet Franc 15%. Good depth of colour, cherry-pink rim. Nicely spiced and exotic cherry fruit on the nose, very true to the Mouton style. Gentle cream on entry, fresh and balanced, with a fine layer of reserved but ripe, well polished, well honed fruit. Very fresh acidity giving the wine beautiful life, and well judged tannins which have a very gentle, svelte, creamy edge. Good polished fruit on the finish which is long and enticingly Mouton. A great second wine and very typical character. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17-18+/20 (March 2010)

Château Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac) 2007: There is something just so aromatically typical of Mouton, year-in, year-out, and I find it here on the nose as usual. It is a sexy, seductive, alluring spice, and in this vintage it is complemented by notes of black bean, chalk, violets and bright cherry fruit. This is a remarkably attractive, scented, open and accessible wine. The palate doesn't have the depth I might hope for, nor the pure definition of a first growth, but there is a good harmony of structure beneath the soft upper layers of fruit. It has a convincing structure through to the finish though. A strong effort considering the context of the vintage. From a 2007 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 17/20 (November 2011)

Château Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac) 2007: Perhaps the least favourable vintage for Bordeaux in the past decade, which only makes it all the more interesting to revisit. This wine, from magnum, has a very fine and evocative nose, here very open, and full of the classic Mouton spice overlaid on ripe Pauillac fruit, all presented in a soft but rather charming frame indicative of the character of the vintage I think. Alongside there are more edgy aromas of coffee bean and green olive. There is an attractive substance on the palate although it comes across as very dry at present, but there is a reserved style which should do very well with further time in the cellar. All the same, this will come around much sooner than many other recent but more substantial vintages of Bordeaux. It is just a shame that the price will never reflect that. From a not the 1989 vintage tasting with Handford Wines. 17+/20 (October 2010)

Château Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac) 2006: Tasted straight after the Lafite from the corresponding vintage this wine really impresses with its open and vibrant aromatics. It is so typically Mouton, no other wine has this spicy character on the nose that is so difficult to describe but is redolent of wet potter's clay blended with coffee, iron and rust. It terms of perfume it is superior to anything else this commune can offer; it seems particularly open and ready to please right now, and I just know Mouton fans will love this. A very attractive palate follows on, with perfumed red fruits and a touch of sweet woodland cherry and strawberry to it. Supple, gently honed, minerally, with a tingling structure to it, but still well-judged, maintaining a composed presence through to the finish, when it finally lets go and touches the palate with a little of its tannic core. Very long, charming, caressing. This is an impressive wine, and it is easy to see why many regard it as the wine of the vintage. From a 2006 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 18.5+/20 (November 2010)

Château Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac) 2005: Another supremely elegant style on the nose, although here we have a darker character than Lafite which was more perfumed and feminine. There is a more honeyed edge to the oak, also a slightly richer style to the fruit. It has that typical Mouton spice, hard to describe but perhaps a blend of smouldering embers with cinnamon, but I am sure there are better descriptions available! Great style on the palate, broad and rich, defined, very well structured, fleshy and more flattering than Lafite. Brilliantly composed, slightly loose-knit at present but this is just the wine's youthful character I think, as there is a great core of smoky tannins and fine acidity at the bottom of it all. Very impressive and a great wine for fans of Mouton. From a 2005 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 19+/20 (November 2009)

Château Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 2005: Cabernet Sauvignon 85%, Cabernet Franc 1%, Merlot 14%. Unsurprisingly this has an intense, youthful, crimson appearance, with a densely coloured rim. Pure cassis, raspberry and cranberry fruit on the nose, creamy and intense, still showing toasty and toffee oak but this is well covered by the wealth of fruit. The palate is creamy, with a firm seam of tannins, but they are ripe and well protected. Piles of fruit, lovely depth and complexity, with spiced bramble and summer fruits, but with well balanced acidity. This is exotic and very fine indeed. Great potential. 19.5+/20 (February 2008)

Petit Mouton (Pauillac) 2005: Cabernet Sauvignon 60%, Cabernet Franc 20%, Merlot 20%. The second wine accounts for 15% of the total crop in this vintage. It still has a very deep hue, right out to the pink rim. There is quite a distinctive nose here, with a dense, slightly treacly, toffee character, from the oak I think. Dried red fruits, especially cranberry and cherry, with a smoky edge. Nice, precise character. Quite light and lifted on entry, but it has substance and some depth, and it shows minerality and a nice detachment, with a stony midpalate. There are slightly hard, austere tannins, giving a good grip, and good acids. An attractive dry red fruit finish, with a little rally of tannins here. Some length. Really very good second wine. 17/20 (February 2008)

Aile d'Argent (Bordeaux Blanc) 2005: Sauvignon Blanc 70%, Semillon 29%, Muscadelle 1%. A good, fairly rich hue. There is a lot of oak present on the nose, with aromas of sweet honey and passion fruit. It has a tropical style, with a dense and yet forward, vibrant palette of aromas. It has a creamy element, with a fabulous freshness, later showing some of the grapefruit of young Sauvignon Blanc. A fine presence on the palate, rich and well rounded, with quite some weight. There is some acidity, but it is well hidden by the fruit and texture. Exuberant tropical fruit character, but with a firm substance and oak-derived grip, especially on the finish. More acidity would provide welcome vigour, but this has fine potential nevertheless. Needs to integrate somewhat though. 17.5+/20 (February 2008)

Château Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac) 2004: Wow! This has a lovely nose, very exotic, dense and rich in fabulous spiced fruits, with an impressively dark core. Lovely, and very typical of Mouton as well. A beautifully composed palate follows, very elegant with a hint of cream, and a fine ripe structure beneath. The tannins are firm, just poking out a little here despite the full midpalate and wealth of spicy fruit. Delicious, fruit-cream finish, and fabulous length. An excellent wine indeed. From a 2004 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 18.5+/20 (November 2008)

Château Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 2003: Cabernet Sauvignon 76%, Cabernet Franc 8%, Merlot 14%, PV 2%. Dark and already deepening in hue, and taking on a more mature, matt appearance. But certainly still vibrant in character. The nose is wonderful - with huge, dark, deep and intense aromas. There are traces of coffee, a massive depth of fruit and a pickling spice complexity, and is there a little alcohol evident here also? It has an appealing and cool style on entry, although it is full and textured. It is seductive and yet firm at the same time. It has the textural quality of the vintage, very polished in style but also firm and rich in alcohol. But the flavours, of dried fruits, are good, and there is punchy grip on the finish. Really very good, although not the purity or finesse of some other recent vintages. 18+/20 (February 2008)

Château Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 2000: Cabernet Sauvignon 86%, Merlot 14%. This has a very dense colour, fading just a touch at the rim. The nose, surprisingly, is showing some development. The fruit characteristics are fading, and there are some secondary elements coming through. There are some dense, sun-baked black fruits, with a little smoke. This has a wonderful, classic, Cabernet-dominated left-bank style, with a little pickling spice depth. It has a cool and broad style, and a lot of substance. Weighty and yet fine, this has a very beautifully composed style, although not as elegantly styled as the 2005. It shows a little trace of maturity, which is surprising. Nevertheless, excellent. 18.5+/20 (February 2008)

Château Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1998: Cabernet Sauvignon 86%, Cabernet Franc 2%, Merlot 12%. This is a less intensely coloured wine than some others, with a dense core but a wide rim. There is already plenty of interest here, notes of truffles and smoke over the gravel, all tinged with dark fruits. This vintage doesn't have the density of some vintages served. It is somewhat leaner, although it is elegant with rather firm tannins. It builds substance in the midpalate, showing a little marrowy flesh, but it has a more austere character towards the finish, and it seems rather stretched out here. But overall it has a good substance. Plenty of potential here. 16.5+/20 (February 2008)

Aile d'Argent (Bordeaux Blanc) 1998: A deeper hue than the 2005, the effect of age. A very different style to the 2005 here, it is still honeyed but with a maturity rather than a simple oak-derived character. There are aromas of dried fruit, hazelnuts and fine, polished leather, cream-tinged baked fruits. It starts very gently on the palate, in a much more composed fashion that the 2005. Softly integrated, it still has grip but with a much more silky style. Nice acidity and flavours that follow the nose. Good wine. 17/20 (February 2008)

Château Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1996: Cabernet Sauvignon 77%, Cabernet Franc 13%, Merlot 10%. From magnum. This wine has a superb colour compared to the maturing wines tasted alongside; it has a dark core, a dense rim, with plenty of red pigment still. This is very impressive. The nose here is divine; it has a very typical profile for the vintage, full of iron and rust, but enticingly perfumed with violets. It kicks off very elegantly on the palate, and it has a wonderful texture, composed rather than showy. It has great style; the tannins and acidity show through and there is plenty of perfumed character as there is on the nose. There is structure and grip, and a fine persistence. This very superb wine, with its reserved character, will go for more than ten years yet. At its apogee this will be truly remarkable. 19+/20 (February 2008)

Petit Mouton (Pauillac) 1996: Cabernet Sauvignon 95%, Cabernet Franc 5%. This wine has a very attractive maturing hue, a dense core with a good depth of colour right out to the rim. A lovely nose, maturing iron-bound fruit, alongside a toasty character, with spices and a touch of pepper. A lovely presence on the palate, elegant style, that many would describe as classic I think. Upright, with a good acid core, perhaps a touch austere, but this would be delicious now with food. It has a good grip, a dry finish and a firm, grippy length. Although approachable now, it would benefit from a little more texture of softness in the finish. Nevertheless, very good indeed. 16.5/20 (February 2008)

Château Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1994: A moderate depth of colour. Fairly closed nose, showing some dark fruit, a few nutty notes. Otherwise reserved. Dry, lean, reserved palate. Lots of structure beneath, tannic finish. Decent texture at best. Would be better with food, and doesn't show well in this sort of tasting. Certainly doesn't show as well as my last tasting of it, either. Merely good. 15.5+/20 (December 2004)

Château Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1994: This wine has a much more promising colour. A moderately dense youthful purple, with no real sign of age around the rim. A pleasing nose, with roasted nut and blackcurrant aromas, more classically Mouton than the 93. Good fruit on the palate, backed up by some weight and integrating tannins. Correct acidity means this classic, fairly stylish wine is a keeper. Should reach maturity in 5-10 years. From a tasting at Edencroft. 15.5+/20 (February 2002)

Château Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1993: This wine has a moderate intensity of colour, although there is an orange-tawny tinge to the wine suggesting advancing maturity. Some complexity on the nose, with spices, nuts and some fruit. Moderate weight on the palate, and there is still some tannin around although this is not problematic. Seems short on fruit, though, and a little thin through the midpalate. Some spice and nut character despite this, though, and fairly soft acidity. Those tannins are just about ready, so drinking about a year from now I would say. From a tasting at Edencroft. 15/20 (February 2002)

Château Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac) 1989: Another chance to take a look at '89 Mouton, a wine I last tasted in 2008. There is an immediate sense of Pauillac-Mouton spice here, supple and sweet and openly evolving, so the aromatics alone should be enough to keep Mouton addicts happy. Very harmonious in terms of composition on the palate, composed and almost regal in its comportment. The finish is harmonious and very direct, polished, with a seamless integration of all the components. Not rich or bold, but very elegant and delicious all the same. An impressive Mouton and not one of the most sought-after vintages either. Still room for improvement here too. From a tasting of the 1989 vintage at Handford Wines. 18.5+/20 (October 2010)

Château Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1989: Cabernet Sauvignon 78%, Cabernet Franc 14%, Merlot 8%. A very successful vintage, which saw an early harvest, the Merlot finished on September 6th and the Cabernet Sauvignon finished on September 25th. This has an appealing, mature hue, with moderate intensity. But what a nose! Although it does not have the depth of the 1996 on inspection, it has a delightful perfume, with violets, lean but bloody meat, iron and more. This is lovely. On the palate, this wine has a fine presence, pure and quite well defined. Broad, nicely textured, with quite some grip here. There is a very good acidity too. It has a very elegant and complete nature, with notes of violets, spice and more. This has a great, integrating composition and lovely style. And it has an impressive length, that goes on and on. The 1996 will one day give more pleasure I think, but right now this is very fine indeed. 18.5+/20 (February 2008)

Château Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1986: Cabernet Sauvignon 80%, Cabernet Franc 8%, Merlot 10%, Petit Verdot 2%. This is slightly more dense than the 1989, tasted alongside. This has a dense and stony nose, less perfumed than some other less mature examples, with a touch of calcareous rock and some reserved fruit. This isn't yet fully developed. Dense, firm, tight and rather straightforward in character on the palate. There is good acidity, and a firm core of tannin although not as much as I expected; perhaps the wines of this vintage are beginning to come around at last. It holds together very nicely on the finish although it doesn't linger as long as I thought it might. There is potential here; this wine needs time yet to show its best. 17+/20 (February 2008)