Château Mouton-Rothschild
One of five first growths in the region, one of three situated in Pauillac, in some ways Château Mouton-Rothschild remains in a class of its own. First and foremost there is the wine, which has an individual and opulent style which sets it apart from its first-growth peers; the layers of dark black fruits come seasoned with smoky, toasty, peppery, cigar-box notes so distinctive that in my early tasting encounters I often referred to it as ‘the Mouton spice’. The property itself reflects this opulence; alongside the winemaking areas, the huge facilities are graced with galleries filled with art pertinent to the history of the estate, and of course the wine’s famous labels which have featured – the Rothschilds working in conjunction with the artists – the art of Warhol, Bacon, Dali and Miró, to name just four among many.
One can only imagine that this opulence continues into Le Petit Mouton, the diminutive château which sits in a secluded position at the very heart of the estate and for so very long the personal residence of the late Baron Philippe de Rothschild, the man who arguably made Mouton-Rothschild what it is today.
In contrast with the lavishly appointed facilities, there are the Rothschild themselves, the three grandchildren of Baron Philippe, Philippe Sereys de Rothschild, Camille Sereys de Rothschild and Julien de Beaumarchais de Rothschild. They are personable, interested and involved, it seems to me they have a presence at every level of life at Mouton-Rothschild, more so than many other proprietors. Of the five first growths, the proprietors of the other four are rarely (or in the case of one, never) seen; I have met them a handful of times, brief encounters during the course of many years of visits. But I have met and conversed with the Rothschilds of Mouton-Rothschild – well, one or two of the trio of siblings, anyway – more times than I can remember, both at the property and at events outside the property, an indication of their interest in the broader world of Bordeaux, and not just in their own little kingdom.
In this extensive profile of the estate I deal with every aspect of Château Mouton-Rothschild – its origins, ancient and recent history, the artist labels, its promotion to first growth, the family and team today, and of course the vineyards and wines, concluding with my tasting notes on vintages young and old. First, though, a little reminiscing as I think back to some of my first ever visits to the property, over twenty years ago now, when I turned up as a newbie in Bordeaux, still green behind the ears. Over the years my visits here have changed, my tastings today more intimate and frankly a lot more informative. But sometimes I still miss the golf buggies. If you are wondering exactly what I am referring to, read on….
The uninitiated, turning up to taste the latest vintage at one of the left bank’s first growth estates, might perhaps expect something a little special, a slightly different experience to that you might have had at one of the other ‘lesser’ estates, those that languish on the lower rungs of the 1855 classification of the Médoc. Indeed, for any acolyte of the wines of Bordeaux, such visits are special; a chance to see the vines and cellars for yourself, and hopefully to meet the winemaking team (probably not the owners though!). And the wines should – especially when one considers the prices now asked for these bottles – also deliver just that little bit more.
Even so, to expect extravagances is perhaps to court disappointment; nevertheless, it is certainly true to say that any first growth visit is unique. During my first visits to taste in Bordeaux gaining entry to Château Latour, even with an appointment, was an ordeal akin to breaking into a high-security jail. Waiting to taste Château Haut-Brion and Château La Mission Haut-Brion, most commonly at the latter of these two estates, felt like sitting in the queue for the confessional, such is the ecclesiastical nature of this domaine. In contrast the style at Château Margaux seemed immediately more open and welcoming, homely even, and still friendly today, whereas visits to Château Lafite-Rothschild always felt rather more business-like.
Not so at Mouton-Rothschild….
