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Chateau Mouton-Rothschild

Researching the very early history of the Mouton-Rothschild estate is rather like peering into a murky pool; there is nothing untoward, but information from before the 18th Century is rather sparse. Like many local estates it seems that in the pre-viticultural days it was in the ownership of a local seigneurie, in this case the Pons de Castillon, a knight who was in residence here as early as 1311. It was subsequently confiscated from this family and in the early 15th Century was gifted to the Duke of Gloucester, younger brother to the English Regent, Henry V. Following the defeat of the English that marked the end of the Hundred Years' War, however, the estate (along with the rest of Bordeaux) came to the French, in this particular case the Foix family. Over the ensuing centuries the estate had a number of owners, and was, albeit briefly, once part of the awe-inspiring Ségur estate (which also included Lafite, Latour and Calon-Ségur, to name just a small portion of it), following its purchase by the Prince of Vines, otherwise known as Nicolas-Alexandre de Ségur, in 1718.

Mouton and Viticulture

It was in the early 18th Century that viticulture became a part of life on the Mouton estate, and the history becomes a little less clouded. Joseph de Brane, who purchased the seigneurie of the Barony of Mouton from the Ségur family in 1720, found himself the new owner of a small vineyard but no significant buildings (other than a few farm buildings), as these had been sold to Dominique Armailhacq, proprietor of what is now Chateau d'Armailhac; he was quick to take advantage of Mouton's cachet by renaming his own estate Mouton-Armailhacq. Joseph renamed his new acquisition Brane-Mouton, and he set to work on the vineyard; this was the beginning of the Mouton-Rothschild that we know today. Under the tenure of the de Brane family, the reputation of Mouton grew; records show that although prices lagged behind those for Lafite and Latour by some considerable distance, by the late 18th Century they were on a par with those for wines from other respected vineyards such as Pichon. This state of affairs continued into the next century, and had it continued it seems likely that Mouton would have swept into place as one of the five first growths in the 1855 classification. But this was not to be, and although it is now impossible to state categorically why Mouton was ranked as only a second growth, there are probably a number of contributing factors.

The proprietor in the early 19th Century was Joseph de Brane's grandson, Hector, but in 1830 he decided to concentrate his efforts on Chateau de Gorse (which became the Brane-Cantenac of today), and he sold the estate to a Parisian banker, Isaac Thuret, for the princely sum of 1.2 million Francs. This change of hands may have had a major impact on the estate's ranking, as Thuret remained in Paris, the Mouton estate managed by a local négociant in his absence. There was, after all, no chateau to provide him with a suitable residence on the estate. Perhaps unsurprisingly, during this time Mouton fell into a state of disrepair; in the years immediately preceding the 1855 classification, for the impending Exposition Universelle de Paris, the vineyards were in a sorry state, and there was a rampant epidemic of oidium. Eventually, in 1853, Thuret sold the estate at a loss, taking just 1.125 million Francs from its new owner, a member of the Rothschild banking family. Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild, an absentee proprietor who employed Théodore Galos as an estate manager, soon began to turn things around at Mouton, regaining lost ground. But it was too little, too late for the classification. The members of the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce were under pressure, at the behest of Emperor Napoleon III, to produce a ranking of the top Bordeaux estates for the exhibition, which they did based on price. Despite the ignominy of the Thuret years, the prices around the time of the classification were strong, matching other first growths in 1854 and again in 1858, but clearly this alone was insufficient. Perhaps the lack of a grand chateau had some influence, or maybe the fact that Mouton was now in foreign hands - Nathaniel was of the English branch of the family - counted against it. Most likely, it was that the first tier was already long decided; there were four accepted first growths, Lafite, Latour, Haut-Brion and Margaux, and it was not the business of the négociants to place the upstart Mouton alongside these illustrious names. And so Mouton was ranked second, despite fetching enough Francs to suggest that this should not be so. Under the tenure of the Rothschild family, however, quality continued to improve, and within a few decades it seemed clear to most that an error had been made.

Nathaniel, James, Henri & Philippe

Baron Nathaniel concentrated on viticulture, utilising the farm buildings and outhouses to make the wine of what was now Mouton-Rothschild. After his death in 1870 it was his son, Baron James, that had a small chateau constructed; its name, Le Petit Mouton, is now synonymous with that of Mouton's second wine. At last there was somewhere to live on the property, but sadly not for James, who died the following year, at the tender age of 37 years. The estate passed first to his widow, Laura Thérèse, and then to his son Henri Rothschild, a doctor, artist, playwright and racing driver, who perhaps unsurprisingly had little time to devote to Mouton. It was his second son, Philippe (above), that took an interest in the property, assuming control in 1922; he had been evacuated to Mouton during the Great War, and clearly felt at home there, despite the absence of amenities we today take for granted, such as running water, electricity and roads. He did not gain sole ownership until, upon the death of his father in 1947, he bought out his brother's and sister's shares, but it was 1922 when the great changes began at Mouton.

Mouton-Rothschild Philippe, like his father, was an engaging all-rounder who shared his passion for motor-racing, but also tried his hand at the theatre, poetry, sailing and even film production. But it was at Mouton where he found his true calling I think. During his 65 years he revolutionised winemaking in Bordeaux; one of his first actions was to change to domaine bottling, rather than selling the wine in barrel, as was the norm not only here but throughout all Bordeaux. It was a massive undertaking; new buildings were required, and the architect Charles Siclis was commissioned to design the new chai de première année, where the wine would be housed after fermentation but prior to bottling. But there were definite benefits; a bottle bearing a Mouton label, starting with the 1924 vintage, would be seen as a guarantee of quality from the chateau, and within half a century, especially following the Cruse scandal of the 1970s, domaine bottling would become the norm throughout the region. The first label (above) was designed by cubist Jean Carlu, and was signed by Philippe himself. For the next few decades there were only a few modifications, otherwise it remained essentially unchanged, except for 1938, 1939 and 1940 when it went unsigned; Philippe was not there to sign the labels when the wine was bottled. Having been imprisoned in Vichy at the start of World War II, he then escaped to England; his wife, Vicomtesse Chambure, was less fortunate. She died in a concentration camp in 1945.

Philippe also acquired new vineyards and developed new wines, starting with bottling of the weak 1927 vintage as Carruades de Mouton-Rothschild, and then the acquisition of neighbouring Mouton-Armailhacq in 1933, the property being renamed Mouton-Baron-Philippe. Carruades became Mouton Cadet, and for many years it was the product of the young vines of these two estates. Today it is a global brand, this and other wines being marketed by the négociant firm baron Philippe de Rothschild SA, also established by Philippe.

The Post-War Years

Following the end of the war Philippe regained control of his estate, it having served as a military headquarters with barracks used by German troops, the product of the vineyard having been bottled under the direct supervision of Goering himself. Repairs were needed and duly undertaken, but there was still, despite personal tragedy, a need to celebrate the long awaited arrival of peace. At Mouton, a new label was commissioned, featuring a V for Victory design created by artist Philippe Jullian. This was the beginning of a new feature, unique to Mouton, as Philippe continued with a newly commissioned label every year thereafter. There was originally an intent, says Mouton director Hervé Berland, to commemorate the most significant event of the year on the label, but the following year this was undoubtedly the death of Gandhi, a subject matter felt to be inappropriate. And so the focus became the artist rather than the event, and this remains the case today. Details of all the fabulous labels of Mouton-Rothschild since the 1945 vintage, which have showcased work by Dali, Bacon, Warhol among others - all of who will have received five cases of the current vintage and five cases of older vintages as payment - are given here.

Philippe's other great achievement was the righting of what he termed the "monstrous injustice" of Mouton's second growth status. For years the labels stated simply Premier ne puis, second ne daigne, Mouton suis, or 'First I cannot be, second I do not deign to be, I am Mouton". It was clear from the great vintages produced in the 1860s and 1870s that the 1855 classification was already outdated, and that change was long overdue. But no such review of this classification will ever take place, and it was only thanks to the tireless campaigning of Philippe that Jacques Chirac, then Minister of Agriculture, passed a decree conferring the status of first growth upon Mouton-Rothschild in 1973. At last the wrong had been righted, and from then on Mouton's labels bore a new inscription, Premier je suis, second je fus. Mouton ne change, or First I am, second I was. Mouton does not change.

In 1976 tragedy came once again for Philippe, with the death of his second wife, Pauline Fairfax-Potter, who he had married in 1954. She had been his companion since 1951, and they lived together in an apartment, sited in some converted haylofts and stables, aptly named Le Grand Mouton. Together they had created the Mouton art museum, collecting pieces from the world over, including some that went on to feature on the Mouton labels, and her death clearly had a huge and terrible impact on Philippe. He promptly put in a request to change the name of Mouton-Baron-Philippe to Mouton-Baronne-Pauline; this was denied, but the property was renamed Baronne-Philippe in her honour. It has since reverted to its original Armailhac. Today, since the death of Philippe in 1988, it is his daughter, Baroness Philippine and her own sons that run Mouton.

Mouton-Rothschild - The Vines and Wines

The Mouton vineyards incorporate 75 hectares of typical gravelly soil over a base of sand, clay, marl and limestone. They are situated on a mound or motte approximately at an altitude of 40m, dizzying heights for the flat and undulating land of the Medoc. It is widely thought that motte is the origin of the name Mouton, the local Bordeaux dialect seemingly includes as many words for mound, hill or hillock as there fish in the Gironde. It does not derive, as some rather unkind individuals have postulated, from the French for sheep, mouton, although this might be suggested by the grazing pasture that abuts the estate. Hervé Berland told me that the vines are 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, planted at a density of 8500 hectares, with an admirable average age of around 50 years. There is also Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle, for the estate's white wine. Once harvested, fermentation is in 225 hectolitre vats of wood, with a maceration of 15 to 25 days. Then comes up to 22 months in oak before bottling. The grand vin is Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, of which there are 25000 cases per annum, and the second wine Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild, introduced with the 1993 vintage (although the name Petit Mouton was only introduced the following year), and produced in only small quantities. The label for the second wine is another design by Jean Carlu, the man who was also behind the first ever Mouton label, for the 1924 vintage.

The white wine, Aile d'Argent, is predominantly Sauvignon Blanc sourced from a four hectare vineyard, and again produced in small quantities, typically 1200 cases per annum. A concept that originated in the early 1990s, 1991 being the first vintage released, the literal translation of the name usually produces the phrase silver wing, which was the name of a magic teapot that was central to a children's story recounted by Baron Philippe Rothschild to his daughter, now Baroness Philippine, when she was a young girl. Whilst imprisoned during World War II the baron put the story onto paper, and it was subsequently published, under the title Aile d'Argent la Magique, in 1947. The wine is dominated by Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in oak which is 50% new each vintage, and then held in the barrels for nine months before bottling.

My early experiences of Mouton-Rothschild, starting with just a couple of vintages, was not really favourable. The 1993 and 1994 were the first to pass my lips, and whereas the two wines were drinkable and on the way up. They were decent wines, certainly, but not premier league, not first growth quality. No doubt the weakness of these two vintages is showing through here. But Mouton's reputation is considerable; generally the property is not as well regarded as some other fist growths, particularly the two in Pauillac, Lafite and Latour. But the estate has turned out great wines, sometimes producing the wine of the vintage, and its position as a first growth is no doubt merited. Wines from the late 1940s, in the immediate post-war years, are legendary, and those being produced today are reputedly very much in the same vein. This became apparent with further experience, taking in the monumental efforts of more recent vintages, most notably 2005, 2000 and 1996. These are magnificent wines and I doubt anyone would question Mouton's ranking on the basis of these three wines. (2/1/07, updated 22/4/08)

Contact details:
Address: Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA, BP 117, 33250 Pauillac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 73 20 20
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 73 20 44
Internet: www.bpdr.com

Chateau Mouton-Rothschild - Tasting Notes

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2005

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 2005: CS 85%, CF 1%, M 14%. Unsurprisingly this has an intense, youthful, crimson appearance, with a densely coloured rim. Pure cassis, raspberry and cranberry fruit on the nose, creamy and intense, still showing toasty and toffee oak but this is well covered by the wealth of fruit. The palate is creamy, with a firm seam of tannins, but they are ripe and well protected. Piles of fruit, lovely depth and complexity, with spiced bramble and summer fruits, but with well balanced acidity. This is exotic and very fine indeed. Great potential. 19.5+/20 (February 2008)

Petit Mouton (Pauillac) 2005: CS 60%, CF 20%, M 20%. The second wine accounts for 15% of the total crop in this vintage. It still has a very deep hue, right out to the pink rim. There is quite a distinctive nose here, with a dense, slightly treacly, toffee character, from the oak I think. Dried red fruits, especially cranberry and cherry, with a smoky edge. Nice, precise character. Quite light and lifted on entry, but it has substance and some depth, and it shows minerality and a nice detachment, with a stony midpalate. There are slightly hard, austere tannins, giving a good grip, and good acids. An attractive dry red fruit finish, with a little rally of tannins here. Some length. Really very good second wine. 17/20 (February 2008)

Aile d'Argent (Bordeaux Blanc) 2005: SB 70%, Sem 29%, Muscadelle 1%. A good, fairly rich hue. There is a lot of oak present on the nose, with aromas of sweet honey and passionfruit. It has a tropical style, with a dense and yet forward, vibrant palette of aromas. It has a creamy element, with a fabulous freshness, later showing some of the grapefruit of young Sauvignon Blanc. A fine presence on the palate, rich and well rounded, with quite some weight. There is some acidity, but it is well hidden by the fruit and texture. Exuberant tropical fruit character, but with a firm substance and oak-derived grip, especially on the finish. More acidity would provide welcome vigour, but this has fine potential nevertheless. Needs to integrate somewhat though. 17.5+/20 (February 2008)

2003

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 2003: CS 76%, CF 8%, M 14%, PV 2%. Dark and already deepening in hue, and taking on a more mature, matt appearance. But certainly still vibrant in character. The nose is wonderful - with huge, dark, deep and intense aromas. There are traces of coffee, a massive depth of fruit and a pickling spice complexity, and is there a little alcohol evident here also? It has an appealing and cool style on entry, although it is full and textured. It is seductive and yet firm at the same time. It has the textural quality of the vintage, very polished in style but also firm and rich in alcohol. But the flavours, of dried fruits, are good, and there is punchy grip on the finish. Really very good, although not the purity or finesse of some other recent vintages. 18+/20 (February 2008)

2000

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 2000: CS 86%, M 14%. This has a very dense colour, fading just a touch at the rim. The nose, surprisingly, is showing some development. The fruit characteristics are fading, and there are some secondary elements coming through. There are some dense, sunbaked black fruits, with a little smoke. This has a wonderful, classic, Cabernet-dominated left-bank style, with a little pickling spice depth. It has a cool and broad style, and a lot of substance. Weighty and yet fine, this has a very beautifully composed style, although not as elegantly styled as the 2005. It shows a little trace of maturity, which is surprising. Nevertheless, excellent. 18.5+/20 (February 2008)

1998

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1998: CS 86%, CF 2%, M 12%. This is a less intensely coloured wine than some others, with a dense core but a wide rim. There is already plenty of interest here, notes of truffles and smoke over the gravel, all tinged with dark fruits. This vintage doesn't have the density of some vintages served. It is somewhat leaner, although it is elegant with rather firm tannins. It builds substance in the midpalate, showing a little marrowy flesh, but it has a more austere character towards the finish, and it seems rather stretched out here. But overall it has a good substance. Plenty of potential here. 16.5+/20 (February 2008)

Aile d'Argent (Bordeaux Blanc) 1998: A deeper hue than the 2005, the effect of age. A very different style to the 2005 here, it is still honeyed but with a maturity rather than a simple oak-derived character. There are aromas of dried fruit, hazelnuts and fine, polished leather, cream-tinged baked fruits. It starts very gently on the palate, in a much more composed fashion that the 2005. Softly integrated, it still has grip but with a much more silky style. Nice acidity and flavours that follow the nose. Good wine. 17/20 (February 2008)

1996

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1996: CS 77%, CF 13%, M 10%. From magnum. This wine has a superb colour compared to the maturing wines tasted alongside; it has a dark core, a dense rim, with plenty of red pigment still. This is very impressive. The nose here is divine; it has a very typical profile for the vintage, full of iron and rust, but enticingly perfumed with violets. It kicks off very elegantly on the palate, and it has a wonderful texture, composed rather than showy. It has great style; the tannins and acidity show through and there is plenty of perfumed character as there is on the nose. There is structure and grip, and a fine persistence. This very superb wine, with its reserved character, will go for more than ten years yet. At its apogee this will be truly remarkable. 19+/20 (February 2008)

Petit Mouton (Pauillac) 1996: CS 95%, CF 5%. This wine has a very attractive maturing hue, a dense core with a good depth of colour right out to the rim. A lovely nose, maturing iron-bound fruit, alongside a toasty character, with spices and a touch of pepper. A lovely presence on the palate, elegant style, that many would describe as classic I think. Upright, with a good acid core, perhaps a touch austere, but this would be delicious now with food. It has a good grip, a dry finish and a firm, grippy length. Although approachable now, it would benefit from a little more texture of softness in the finish. Nevertheless, very good indeed. 16.5/20 (February 2008)

1994

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1994: A moderate depth of colour. Fairly closed nose, showing some dark fruit, a few nutty notes. Otherwise reserved. Dry, lean, reserved palate. Lots of structure beneath, tannic finish. Decent texture at best. Would be better with food, and doesn't show well in this sort of tasting. Certainly doesn't show as well as my last tasting of it, either. Merely good. 15.5+/20 (December 2004)

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1994: This wine has a much more promising colour. A moderately dense youthful purple, with no real sign of age around the rim. A pleasing nose, with roasted nut and blackcurrant aromas, more classically Mouton than the 93. Good fruit on the palate, backed up by some weight and integrating tannins. Correct acidity means this classic, fairly stylish wine is a keeper. Should reach maturity in 5-10 years. From a tasting at Edencroft. 15.5+/20 (February 2002)

1993

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1993: This wine has a moderate intensity of colour, although there is an orange-tawny tinge to the wine suggesting advancing maturity. Some complexity on the nose, with spices, nuts and some fruit. Moderate weight on the palate, and there is still some tannin around although this is not problematic. Seems short on fruit, though, and a little thin through the midpalate. Some spice and nut character despite this, though, and fairly soft acidity. Those tannins are just about ready, so drinking about a year from now I would say. From a tasting at Edencroft. 15/20 (February 2002)

1989

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1989: CS 78%, CF 14%, M 8%. A very successful vintage, which saw an early harvest, the Merlot finished on September 6th and the Cabernet Sauvignon finished on September 25th. This has an appealing, mature hue, with moderate intensity. But what a nose! Although it does not have the depth of the 1996 on inspection, it has a delightful perfume, with violets, lean but bloody meat, iron and more. This is lovely. On the palate, this wine has a fine presence, pure and quite well defined. Broad, nicely textured, with quite some grip here. There is a very good acidity too. It has a very elegant and complete nature, with notes of violets, spice and more. This has a great, integrating composition and lovely style. And it has an impressive length, that goes on and on. The 1996 will one day give more pleasure I think, but right now this is very fine indeed. 18.5+/20 (February 2008)

1986

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1986: CS 80%, CF 8%, M 10%, PV 2%. This is slightly more dense than the 1989, tasted alongside. This has a dense and stony nose, less perfumed than some other less mature examples, with a touch of calcareous rock and some reserved fruit. This isn't yet fully developed. Dense, firm, tight and rather straightforward in character on the palate. There is good acidity, and a firm core of tannin although not as much as I expected; perhaps the wines of this vintage are beginning to come around at last. It holds together very nicely on the finish although it doesn't linger as long as I thought it might. There is potential here; this wine needs time yet to show its best. 17+/20 (February 2008)