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Chateau Clerc-Milon

Chateau Clerc-Milon is a property with which all lovers of Pauillac should be familiar. Although in illustrious ownership (it is part of the Rothschild stable that also includes Mouton-Rothschild) it hides at the fifth growth level, one of the dozen Pauillac properties that dominate – in numbers at least – this rung of the 1855 classification. But wine buyers interested in quality know that this ancient classification cannot be wholly relied upon, and that there are many chateaux outperforming their rank. Lynch-Bages is a classic example, consistently ranked as the equivalent of a second growth, and as a consequence prices are higher than one might otherwise expect. The recently rescued Pontet-Canet is another under-rated fifth growth. And, based on my assessment of the wines, Clerc-Milon is another.

The history of the Clerc-Milon estate takes us back to the early 19th Century, to the land surrounding the small village of Milon, in the northwestern corner of the Pauillac commune. Here there were a number of vineyards, including one belonging to a M. Mandavy, which was eventually to become what we know today as Duhart-Milon. Adjacent to this was the vineyard of Jean-Baptiste Clerc, who was still in charge at the time of the 1855 classification when Clerc-Milon, as it came to be known, was ranked as a cinquième cru. Clerc died in 1863, but not before he had sold part of his estate to a gentleman named Lamena; nevertheless, what remained in his possession passed onto his widow. That part which had been purchased by Lamena was sold onto Jacques Mondon, who then mounted a legal challenge for the right to use the estate name of Clerc-Milon, which having been well placed in 1855 would no doubt have conferred some marketing and thus financial advantage. Despite owning a smaller part of the original estate, he won the case, and thus his vineyards took on the title of Clerc-Milon-Mondon. As the decades passed, though, the estate passed through a succession of owners and, as always happens in these circumstances, it gradually fell into disrepair. By the 1960s it was the property of local lawyer Jacques Vialard. Little wonder, considering its condition, that Marie Vialard and Madame Heron, who inherited the property upon Vialard’s death in 1970, were only too pleased to sell this moneypit on. This was to Baron Philippe de Rothschild’s advantage; he secured the estate for the paltry sum of one million francs. Over the next decade it saw extensive investment, with the refurbishment of the chai and the introduction of temperature-controlled fermentation equipment, stainless steel naturally. The fruits of the Rothschild's labours have been a succession of excellent wines, from the early 1980s onwards.

The little village of Milon is situated near Chateau Lafite, but vineyards of Clerc-Milon themselves are is situated in the northernmost part of the Pauillac appellation, closer to Mousset. Here Baroness Philippine de Rothschild – Baron Philippe’s daughter - can oversee activity at Clerc-Milon, Mouton-Rothschild and d’Armailhac, whilst keeping up to date with progress at her other interests in Chile (Almaviva) and California (Opus One), as well as the branded side of the business – such as the infamous Mouton Cadet. It is a most parcellated property, with over 100 separate vineyard plots scattered around. The soils are a mixture of sand and gravel, with more clay nearer the river. There are just over 43 hectares of vines in all, planted with 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot and an impressive 1% Carmenere, the latter variety a rare sight in the vineyards of Bordeaux nowadays. In recent years the area planted to Cabernet Sauvignon has decreased, whereas there is more Merlot, and even since this profile was first published I have had to update this information. The vines average about 40 years of age and are planted at a density of 8450 plants per hectare. Fermentation is in the aforementioned stainless steel, the process lasting between 15 and 22 days, followed by up to 18 months in oak, of which 30% is new each vintage. The end result is the grand vin Chateau Clerc-Milon (typically 14000 cases per annum), the label of which depicts a pair of dancing clowns made from precious stones, a facsimile of a 16th Century piece currently housed in the Museum of Wine in Art at Mouton-Rothschild. There is no second wine.

Chateau Clerc-Milon is an unusual wine. It does not have a huge, vocal following in the way that Lynch-Bages does. It does not have the benefit of recent publicity concerning an obvious improvement in quality, with the Parker points to match, in the way that Pontet-Canet has. It does, however, command a healthy but admittedly not exorbitant price. When I first came to taste Clerc-Milon from the Rothschild era I expected to find some decent but perhaps not superlative examples of Pauillac. What I actually found was an impressive wine; in several vintages a dark, brooding and masculine libation, punching way above its weight. But with it comes none of the cost-enhancing hype that follows some other Bordeaux underlings. Provided one sticks to the wines from the latter years of the 20th Century onwards, these are wines that offer much pleasure. And this quality seems to have been maintained in very recent vintages; I found much worthy of compliment in the 2004 vintage, and my tasting notes for older vintages from the 1980s speak for themselves. This is one that I should be buying more of, I think. (19/1/05, updated 29/3/07)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, 33250 Pauillac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 73 20 20
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 73 20 44
Internet: www.bpdr.com

Chateau Clerc-Milon - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Clerc-Milon (Pauillac) 2008: Dark and aromatic, pure, with quite concentrated fruit. An attractively open style on the palate, broad, gently fleshy, with nicely covered tannins. Clean, perhaps a touch diffuse, but with good character. This may come together in time and may well warrant a higher score. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 16-17+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Clerc-Milon (Pauillac) 2007: Rather polished fruit on the nose, some exotic elements to it, with notes of black cherry. Moderate weight at best, with the texture of polished stone. Just a touch of softness in the middle but overall a very lean style. And it has a short finish too. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 14+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau Clerc-Milon (Pauillac) 2007: Rather open on the nose, with some nutty oak and sweet black fruits. The palate is fairly gentle, attractive, with a little supple flesh. That tannins are fairly well covered. It shows ripeness, and has a good structure, which doesn't really show through until the finish. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Clerc-Milon (Pauillac) 2006: This seems rather more generous than the corresponding d'Armailhac on the nose, with some sweet raspberry fruit albeit with a little stalky edge. A gentle palate, well judged it seems, with ripe cherry fruit draped over a rather dry, tannic backbone, culminating in a rather tight, grippy finish. It is veering towards the austere, but is still good. From a tasting of 2006 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau Clerc-Milon (Pauillac) 2005: A touch more reticent and woody than the d'Armailhac, a little less expressive of fruit. The palate similarly shows less character, a firm texture wrapped up a fairly crunchy shell. There is little in the way of fruit-related flavour to balance it out, but there is certainly substance here, decent acidity and a well hidden core of tannins which are ripe and well composed. There is potential here although it is difficult to judge with certainty when it is in such a reticent mood. From a 2005 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 17.5-18+?/20 (November 2009)

Chateau Clerc-Milon (Pauillac) 2005: This has very dark, nutty, oaky fruit on the nose, and yet has a very cool style on the palate, displaying a very bright, vigorous nature despite having a very dense structure. The fruit character helps, as it has a real crunchy, leafy, cranberry and redcurrant style. There is good grip and a firm acid backbone. A fine structure; rather a lot of tannin but it all balances out. This could end up a really classic, meaty, typically dense Clerc-Milon. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17.5+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Clerc-Milon (Pauillac) 2004: A denser hue than the equivalent d'Armailhac, with dark fruits showing a slightly warm and spicy character. Lovely weight on the palate, a supple style, well textured with ripe, well composed and balanced tannins. There is good acidity behind it too. This is really very good and has delicious potential for the cellar. From a Bordeaux 2004 tasting. 17+/20 (November 2007)

Chateau Clerc-Milon (Pauillac) 2004: An exotic fruit nose with real depth here, with pickling spice nuances of future complexity, overall a seductive welcome. There are lovely, svelte tannins, beautifully composed, and elegantly styled palate with a crisp acidic structure. This is a real success that will do well in the cellar. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 17+/20 (October 2006)

Chateau Clerc-Milon (Pauillac) 2003: A dense, quite powerful, masculine nose, showing ripe, brawny, exotic, macerated cherry fruit, with a nutty element of unresolved oak. Firm, structured palate, with not a lot of character. Rather ripe, grippy but prominent tannins give a firm structured feel to the palate. Decent acidity. Good. From my 2003 Bordeaux assessment. 15/20 (October 2005)

Chateau Clerc-Milon (Pauillac) 2000: Dense and very vibrant and youthful colour. Such youthful exuberance on the nose too - lots of unabsorbed new oak giving coffee and toffee flavours, with flashy black fruits. Creamy, mouthfilling, full, textured and sweet. Truly a very impressive wine. Massive smooth fruit, with a toffee edge. Wonderfully seductive. Give it a decade at the very least. 18+/20 (January 2005)

Chateau Clerc-Milon (Pauillac) 1996: Very youthful hue. Dense, classic, dark, slightly sooty nose. A little roasted even. Lovely tannins pervading through the palate. Big, very structured, youthful, pure concentrated and intense. The tannins come to dominate at the finish though. A lovely wine destined for greatness. Needs five to ten years cellar time. 17.5+/20 (January 2005)

Chateau Clerc-Milon (Pauillac) 1995: A good, moderately youthful colour. Classic, minerally, sweet black fruits. Dense, concentrated, brawny pure fruit. Ripe tannins, coating the palate. Rich and a touch creamy. Very crisp, correct acidity. A lovely food wine. Showing much better than many 1995s tasted over the past year or two. Would benefit from another five or so years cellar time though. 17+/20 (January 2005)

Chateau Clerc-Milon (Pauillac) 1993: Showing a little maturity. Great, minerally-metallic notes overlaid with organic, mature fruit aromas. Not as voluptuous or textured as some of the other wines tasted here. There is body and structure though, but a little lean. But it has some sweet fruit, with soft and ready tannins. Impressive indeed for the vintage, and not an significantly less pleasing wine. 16/20 (January 2005)

Chateau Clerc-Milon (Pauillac) 1990: Mature colour. Hard, sooty, slightly metallic nose. Very dense, intense, and impressive though. Classic aromas. Firm and texture palate, smoky, dense, meaty, concentrated. Plenty of flavour, with ripe tannins and fairly firm acidity to match. Fabulous, bright and lovely. Very long finish. Clearly from a great vintage. Approachable now but will keep for years. 18/20 (January 2005)