Loire 2013 at Ten Years: Tasting Notes
In this report on the 2013 vintage in the Loire Valley at ten years of age I present 30 tasting notes, the vast majority of which concern dry white wines, along with a handful of demi-sec and moelleux styles. Desperate to give the reds a nod I also include just two examples (more than enough for this sort of vintage), one from near the Atlantic coast, and one from much higher upstream, in the Central Vineyards. Neither, in case it isn’t obvious, are Cabernet Franc.
Looking to Muscadet first, I pulled a lone sur lie wine from the racks, but what a wine it was. It is testament to the talents of Marc Ollivier, who has since retired but was still running his domaine with associate Rémi Branger at this time, that his 2013 Clos des Briords could wipe the floor with several of the cru communal wines also tasted here.
Some of those cru communal wines are exceptionally good though, with Marc’s 2013 Clisson and 2013 Monnières-Saint-Fiacre ruling the roost. The latter was the superior of the two, an impressive result given this was Marc’s inaugural vintage in this particular commune. These two wines illustrate just how worthwhile it can be cellaring top-quality Muscadet, which can occupy the same role at table as a maturing Chablis or Sancerre, or even a cool-climate Chenin Blanc. A tip of the hat to Véronique Gunther-Chéreau is also warranted here though, because her 2013 Monnières-Saint-Fiacre is punching at the same level.
Some wines were less impressive though, and I learnt two things from them. The first relates specifically to the 2013 vintage, and that is the very particular sour-fruit acid profile that runs through many of the wines in this vintage, be they Melon de Bourgogne, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc or otherwise. All the lesser wines showed this, as did many of the better wines, whether there was something else thrown into the mix for balance – typically texture – being the distinguishing feature. The wines which did not display this sour-fruit acidity were in the minority (and, it has to be said, were some of the best). Should you find yourself requesting a white 2013 in a restaurant, or pulling the cork on a 2013 from your own cellar, don’t be surprised when you find this sour-fruit acid-rich profile.
