An Overture to Oisly: Lionel Gosseaume Touraine Oisly Climat No.1, 2014 – 2024
Of the five geographical denominations within the Touraine appellation, three seem destined for greater things.
Looking first to the original trio, all of which provide safe harbour for Chenin Blanc (and sometimes Côt), Amboise is perhaps the most convincing. There are a number of significant domaines turning out smart wines here, among them La Grange Tiphaine. Azay-le-Rideau is also brimming with potential, although it seems to me to be lacking a standard bearer; the wines of Pascal Pibaleau have been among some of the most delicious examples of Loire Valley Chenin Blanc I have ever tasted, but he retired a long time ago, and I am unaware of anyone in the region working to his standard today.
Meanwhile, the more recently ratified Chenonceaux denomination simply simmers with potential, and last year’s exploration of this region’s wines – where Sauvignon Blanc rules in white, with Côt dominating in red – gave me much to get excited about. I hesitate to christen any domaine the region’s flagship at the moment, but strong candidates include Domaine des Echardières and Domaine de la Renaudie.
Any one of this trio could legitimately make a claim for independence from the broader Touraine appellation, joining the ranks of the region’s other noteworthy appellations, alongside Vouvray, Montlouis-sur-Loire, Chinon, Bourgueil and the like.
Lagging behind this trio, however, come Mesland and Oisly. The former is obscure; I have rarely tasted its wines. The latter, again a Sauvignon denomination, has never tingled my tastebuds in the way a some of the wines of Chenonceaux have managed.
Maybe that has now changed though.
