Touraine Chenonceaux
The Touraine appellation began life under the name Coteaux de Touraine in 1939, and it was only in 1953 that this was pruned, giving it the simplified name by which we know it today, Touraine. Around the time of this pruning three new geographical denominations were created within the appellation, these being Touraine Azay-le-Rideau that same year, followed by Touraine Amboise and Touraine Mesland, both delineated in 1955.
The creation of these three new ‘micro-appellations’ was purportedly to protect indigenous white varieties – one in particular, namely Chenin Blanc – from being usurped by the new kid on the block, the now nearly ubiquitous Sauvignon Blanc. New plantings following the devastation of phylloxera favoured this variety over Chenin, and it seemed like Chenin Blanc, which had previously flourished on the slopes of Touraine around the Loire and Cher rivers, could soon be facing extinction in these parts. Unless action was taken, of course.
Looking back at these events from current times this probably all seems rather strange. After all, today Sauvignon Blanc is one of the mostly widely planted varieties in the Loire Valley, variety and region now accepted partners, the Lennon and McCartney, Bonnie and Clyde or Bert and Ernie (yes, Bert and Ernie!) of the Wine World. Think of the Loire Valley, and which white variety first springs to mind? If the answer is to be based on hectares planted it would be Melon de Bourgogne. If it were based on versatility, and the cellar-potential of its demi-sec and moelleux wines, it would be Chenin Blanc. For most people, however, I suspect the variety that first comes to mind is Sauvignon Blanc.
Nevertheless, in reality Sauvignon Blanc is an upstart in the Touraine region; its homeland is upstream, in the Central Vineyards such as Menetou-Salon or Sancerre, or across the river in Pouilly-Fumé or some might argue even further east, into Burgundy. It was never planted in the Sologne, or along the Cher; here Chenin Blanc (which also went by the name Pineau de la Loire or Gros Pineau) ruled, alongside other local specialties such as Menu Pineau (also known as Arbois or Orbois, the latter name often used in French regulatory documents) and our old friend Romorantin.
And so Chenin saw special protection in Azay-le-Rideau, Amboise and Mesland, but after this flurry of regulatory activity the appellation went quiet. Little changed for more than half a century, and it was only in 2011 that the next two geographical denominations were ratified. Coincidentally, bearing in mind that there are some similarities between them, this was also the year that the first three crus communaux in Muscadet were signed off.
