Château La Roche en Loire
Having worked its way through the great city of Tours, the Loire is joined by three significant tributaries before it reaches Saumur. Although all three rivers have their vineyards, it is only the last to join, the Vienne, that is blessed with an appellation of major repute, as it is on the banks of this tributary that the vineyards of Chinon are to be found. The other tributaries are certainly not devoid of their viticultural stars, however, especially the first, the Cher. The Cher Valley has in recent years developed a reputation for esoteric and interesting wines, its renown bolstered by the presence of a number of ‘natural’ wine stars, their way trailblazed by the old (sadly now extinct and broken up) Clos Roche Blanche.
The Indre, the second of these three tributaries, seems at first glance to be rather less blessed. Nevertheless, as is often the case, first glances can be deceiving. There are interesting wines here, not least from Château de l’Aulée near Azay-le-Rideau, through which the Indre flows, its waters snaking around the famous château as it does so. Not far from here, on the southern slopes near the mouth of the Indre Valley, there can be found another domaine of note, Château La Roche en Loire.
For many years – a little more than twenty, in truth – this was the domaine of Louis-Jean Sylvos, a newcomer to wine who nevertheless turned out a convincing array of vibrant, fruit-rich wines. Today it is in new hands, having been acquired by Emmanuel Pousset (pictured below) and his son Baptiste.