Bernard Baudry: Wines
Before exploring the portfolio of wines in detail, it is possible first to make some generalisations on the approach to vinification. As already noted, the fruit is picked by hand under Matthieu’s supervision (from the cab of his tractor if required, as pictured on this page) as late as possible in the season, and the grapes transported to the cellars close to Cravant-les-Coteaux. Here the grapes are sorted by hand and eye, but only as they are raked from the trailer rather than across a formal table (picture don the next page), and what happens thereafter depends very much on the colour and cuvée. All the Cabernet Franc grapes are destemmed, and then transported to the vessel of choice, since 2005 this has been cement or wooden cuves for all the wines except perhaps Les Granges, (more detail on this on the next page), before fermentation by indigenous yeasts.
The reds are picked at controlled yields, perhaps 40 hl/ha. These wines have seen no chaptalisation since 2001, the only exception to this rule being the wash-out 2013 vintage, when I recall Matthieu adjusted the final alcohol percentage by less than 1%. The élevage generally occurs either in vat (details again, below) or in barrels, which Matthieu ships in from Bordeaux or Burgundy, and are thus two or three years when he starts using them, He continues up until they are about ten years old. As a general rule (I have come to realise all rules in winemaking are general) the barrels used for La Croix Boissée are aged between two and five years, those used for Le Clos Guillot are aged between five and ten years, while the oldest barrels are reserved for Les Grézeaux. Having tasted through the wines with Matthieu in the cellar, though, I have certainly seen barrels older than five years used for La Croix Boissée (I give this and more cuvée-specific information on the next page).
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