Bernard Baudry: Tasting & Drinking
There is so much I could say about the wines of Bernard and Matthieu Baudry, although I fear that my words would be predictable, and that I might go on too long (as if I haven’t already done that). Bernard forged a domaine from nothing, and has proven himself to be one of the most preeminent names of the appellation. Indeed, when looking for my top wine of the vintage, Bernard was always in the running, along with Philippe Alliet of course. Other domaines such as Couly-Dutheil make super wines from hallowed terroirs, but these two vignerons seemed to made great wines regardless of the origins of the fruit, be it limestone, clay, gravel or sand.
Today the domaine has transitioned from Bernard to Matthieu (pictured), and I find the wines no less convincing. Yes I do find, as some others have done on occasion, some Brettanomyces in the wines, but thankfully not as a regular feature. Thus there is some inconsistency here, but fortunately I seem to have been lucky with the vast majority of wines from my own cellar. Indeed, I have had more trouble with cork taint (a statistic weighted heavily by the 2006 Le Clos Guillot, which from my cellar has a 50% rate of taint) than with Brettanomyces.
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